Big T
Well-Known Member
Applied the fabric paint to the seat and it came out pretty good….
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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....
- Thread starter deejaaa
- Start date
Big T
Well-Known Member
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I bet it feels like a new ride, at least on the bottom side!
looks good.
looks good.
Big T
Well-Known Member
As you can see the old was getting ratty. It had 11 years and 394K miles on it. The replacement was from a 2018 with 88K miles on it, so the material and foam were in much better condition. The material faded because they left the seat in the wreck without the doors, exposed to weather for over 300 days. I would prefer to avoid that, but no new wrecks were showing up out west along the expanded routes between Montana and California. There were some other seats, but the salvagers wanted twice as much. So we ended up with this. I literally tossed the seatback and the frame for the seat bottom (rusty). I don’f have room to collect shit I will never use.
And yes, it feels pretty good. The original seatback had no issues with foam or material.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
on a lot of vehicles the drinkers side bottoms are interchangeable with the captains side. I did this swap on my ram 1500. on the next replacement you might get away with that if you can't find a decent drivers seat.
Big T
Well-Known Member
This is true for the foam and upholstery part. The cheaper salvage seats typically have the air bag blown in the seatback, but to date I have not used the seatback, only the seat bottom.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Dumb question for you guys.... on my 93, I might have mentioned it before but it's got a tappity tap tap sound that only appears under load accelerating. sound can at times get loud enough to mistake it for a knock but the sound will randomly fade in and then fade out quiet like when I am accelerating up onto the freeway. doesn't do it all the time and doesn't seem to matter if the engine is still cold or fully warm, it's just random.
I think it's coming from a lifter but donno. it's been doing this for several months now with no ill effects driving. I know this engine is slowly dieing, massive blow by and low compression, but it's still moving under it's own power quite well so I keep driving it LOL.
my question is what would you all think a tapping sound that is rhythmic to the RPM, sounds like a single lifter/rod/piston/ect.. and will randomly (sometimes it does it, sometimes it wont make any noise at all) fade from quiet to a worrysom tap tap tap TAP TAP... and then fade back out while still under load. and not seem to effect operation and do this for months without getting worse or better?
it's just a question that has been on my mind, just haven't put much thought into it.
I can't really put my phone on record or put a mic under the hood since you can't hear it unless your driving, ( you can really hear it driving next to a wall) maybe if I think about it, I can try to record with the windows down getting on the freeway where there is some construction barriers, hopefully I can catch it in the act LOL.
I think it's coming from a lifter but donno. it's been doing this for several months now with no ill effects driving. I know this engine is slowly dieing, massive blow by and low compression, but it's still moving under it's own power quite well so I keep driving it LOL.
my question is what would you all think a tapping sound that is rhythmic to the RPM, sounds like a single lifter/rod/piston/ect.. and will randomly (sometimes it does it, sometimes it wont make any noise at all) fade from quiet to a worrysom tap tap tap TAP TAP... and then fade back out while still under load. and not seem to effect operation and do this for months without getting worse or better?
it's just a question that has been on my mind, just haven't put much thought into it.
I can't really put my phone on record or put a mic under the hood since you can't hear it unless your driving, ( you can really hear it driving next to a wall) maybe if I think about it, I can try to record with the windows down getting on the freeway where there is some construction barriers, hopefully I can catch it in the act LOL.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Engine in my truck has a terrible noise. Almost like the injectors but after it warms sort of goes away.
With the limited abilities of my ears, it sounds like from the RH side.
I did make an attempt at doing a retorque on the exhaust manifolds after the new engine was in and runn ing but is where I failed on that attempt was I forgot to slightly back off the bolts to break the tension between the threads of the bolts and heads.
I do want to now get this retorque done but there is another project thats taken precedence over all else for another week or so.
Then I’ll clear the garage and get the truck in remove the right side inner fender and do a retorque on the manifolds.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
@dbrannon79
Doug, in my experience, once a guy knows his way around a these trucks a bit - his instincts as to what the noise is becomes correct 95% of the time.
Lifter tick in these can be a lifter loosing its prime, or a rocker button that has left the chat. But when it’s a rocker button that doesn’t generally come and go for an extended period of time.- is usually lefts the pushrod go visit new and exciting places before 1,000 miles is up. And you have had this for well beyond that time so my bet is one lifter is just feeling its age.
When the issue becomes more and prevalent- it will usually start ticking every morning with start up until a few seconds after oil pressure is built.
The guess about adding Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer or the opposite of trying to clean it out with Seafoam comes to mind. So hear is the thought process:
1. Leave alone and see vs mess with it -risk/ reward.
If it is mild and rare then leave it. If it happens and you feel impending doom and almost shut the engine off each time then worth the risk. You have to decide where the line is and go with one side or the other. Step 2 usually has impact here.
2. Cleaner vs sticky stuff to add.
First part is do you have good oil pressure in the engine. Testing it at the front right port where it feeds the turbo tells you what the lifters are getting- but since your turbo hasn’t already died from lack of oil- that generally says you have plenty of flow getting through to all the lifters. Unbolting the turbo so the exhaust cant spin it then undoing the oil line and putting an oil pressure gauge there has very rarely revealed the answer in my experience. i have put a T fitting in and left turbo working and got readings that way that made me suggest the world was ending with no oil pressure. But never from low oil pressure AND an occasional lifter tick. Usually its no oil pressure & massive power loss with a small rod knocking that is very loud and constant, the kind that makes a 12 year old girl say “that car is gonna blow up”. So I doubt that’s your situation.
With good oil pressure now becomes the question of is there some gummed up oil you want to free up in the journal to that lifter or in that lifter. If thats the theory you add Seafoam. Old school was diesel fuel and or ATF. Upside: it works and life is good. Downside: it does nothing= a few bucks lost. Other downside= you free up oil sludge and it travels to somewhere you don’t want it to like: into other lifters; into main journals/bearing; into rod journals/bearing; into wrist pin bearing; into cam journals/bearing; into turbo.
This is the point where you simply do your best Clint Eastwood as Dirty Harry and ask “Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?” And now you go back to that risk vs reward and recalibration usually occurs. If the feeling is an overwhelming “Its gonna blow up anyhow- then without a doubt clean it out. If it becomes- I might wreck this otherwise perfectly running engine- leave it be and let the sound develop.
3. Add the sticky icky if snoop dogg and willy nelson haven’t smoked it all…
My usual suggestion is- all the properties of oil thickeners go wrong if something is loose and about to plug up. So begin with the clean out in step 2- being ready to shut it off and do the oil change if the sound gets louder because thats the huge clue you need a thicker oil because something is slapping around like an ethiopian ak47 in-between jamming.
The concern with a thickener is- the journal to the lifter is partially plugged and the cause of the occasional tick. The sticky goo can make the restriction worse and not allow any oil to get it. Hence the call to flush it out first. Then the thick goo can get in and help keep the lifter lubed up. But Their claim to fame is stopping tick during start up … you sound like you are saying while cruising … So idk if this is gonna be your solution- but you have to decide.
Hopefully my early morning ramblings have helped more than hurt.
Doug, in my experience, once a guy knows his way around a these trucks a bit - his instincts as to what the noise is becomes correct 95% of the time.
Lifter tick in these can be a lifter loosing its prime, or a rocker button that has left the chat. But when it’s a rocker button that doesn’t generally come and go for an extended period of time.- is usually lefts the pushrod go visit new and exciting places before 1,000 miles is up. And you have had this for well beyond that time so my bet is one lifter is just feeling its age.
When the issue becomes more and prevalent- it will usually start ticking every morning with start up until a few seconds after oil pressure is built.
The guess about adding Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer or the opposite of trying to clean it out with Seafoam comes to mind. So hear is the thought process:
1. Leave alone and see vs mess with it -risk/ reward.
If it is mild and rare then leave it. If it happens and you feel impending doom and almost shut the engine off each time then worth the risk. You have to decide where the line is and go with one side or the other. Step 2 usually has impact here.
2. Cleaner vs sticky stuff to add.
First part is do you have good oil pressure in the engine. Testing it at the front right port where it feeds the turbo tells you what the lifters are getting- but since your turbo hasn’t already died from lack of oil- that generally says you have plenty of flow getting through to all the lifters. Unbolting the turbo so the exhaust cant spin it then undoing the oil line and putting an oil pressure gauge there has very rarely revealed the answer in my experience. i have put a T fitting in and left turbo working and got readings that way that made me suggest the world was ending with no oil pressure. But never from low oil pressure AND an occasional lifter tick. Usually its no oil pressure & massive power loss with a small rod knocking that is very loud and constant, the kind that makes a 12 year old girl say “that car is gonna blow up”. So I doubt that’s your situation.
With good oil pressure now becomes the question of is there some gummed up oil you want to free up in the journal to that lifter or in that lifter. If thats the theory you add Seafoam. Old school was diesel fuel and or ATF. Upside: it works and life is good. Downside: it does nothing= a few bucks lost. Other downside= you free up oil sludge and it travels to somewhere you don’t want it to like: into other lifters; into main journals/bearing; into rod journals/bearing; into wrist pin bearing; into cam journals/bearing; into turbo.
This is the point where you simply do your best Clint Eastwood as Dirty Harry and ask “Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?” And now you go back to that risk vs reward and recalibration usually occurs. If the feeling is an overwhelming “Its gonna blow up anyhow- then without a doubt clean it out. If it becomes- I might wreck this otherwise perfectly running engine- leave it be and let the sound develop.
3. Add the sticky icky if snoop dogg and willy nelson haven’t smoked it all…
My usual suggestion is- all the properties of oil thickeners go wrong if something is loose and about to plug up. So begin with the clean out in step 2- being ready to shut it off and do the oil change if the sound gets louder because thats the huge clue you need a thicker oil because something is slapping around like an ethiopian ak47 in-between jamming.
The concern with a thickener is- the journal to the lifter is partially plugged and the cause of the occasional tick. The sticky goo can make the restriction worse and not allow any oil to get it. Hence the call to flush it out first. Then the thick goo can get in and help keep the lifter lubed up. But Their claim to fame is stopping tick during start up … you sound like you are saying while cruising … So idk if this is gonna be your solution- but you have to decide.
Hopefully my early morning ramblings have helped more than hurt.
jrsavoie
Recruit
I seem to have had good results with Hot Shot's Stiction eliminator
I don't know if it helps, if it's just imagination or if it's just snake oil.
I don't know if it helps, if it's just imagination or if it's just snake oil.
Amazon.com: Hot Shot's Secret Original Stiction Eliminator 32 Fluid Ounce Bottle : Video Games
Amazon.com: Hot Shot's Secret Original Stiction Eliminator 32 Fluid Ounce Bottle : Video Games
www.amazon.com
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Thanks @Will L. . I'm fairly certain it's something that doesn't have too bad of a cause for concern since it's been this way for months. I did tear into it a while back thinking rocker buttons and such, that was when I discovered how worn things were inside. rockers and shafts along with push rods were all worn. to add to things worn out, occasional I do see the oil pressure gauge needle start bouncing like the pump is worn out too.
Remember back when I pulled the cam sensor on top of the block to fix that oil leak and found the oil pump shaft worn so badly that the hex was wedged into the top like a bolt with a rounded off head stuck in a socket? well I'm sure the rest of the engine is just as bad!! I did swap out the oil pump shaft with the one in that 6.2 block.
atm I can't recall if I swapped the rockers and shafts with the 6.2 block or not, but I did replace all the buttons with bolts and nuts when I tore into it. also glued to valve covers down with the right stuff so that might be a chore to open back up just for a lifter. becides I don't think I can pull lifters without pulling the heads. isn't there a keeper that bolts down under the head that would be near impossible to r & r with the heads in place?
right now as it is, the engine start and runs strong despite having half it's compression. I also did replace the injectors with some that I rebuilt my self but that noise was there prior to replacing injectors.
I have though about trying to run some cleaner in the oil since it does need an oil change, just not sure what cleaner I should use. seafoam, BG cleaner, berryman b-12... also don't know how long I can run it with the cleaner in there hoping to dissolve anything that's in there.
since it's nearing winter time, I'm also kinda worried that if I were to thicken up the oil, that might prove to be an issue for cold starts even though it doesn't get below freezing too often here, but you never know about "old man winter". all summer I run synthetic 15w40 but I usually will switch to a 5w40 for the winter months. essentially 1-2 oil changes a year mainly due to how little I drive. run the truck every day, but only about 12-15 miles a day to and from work!
Remember back when I pulled the cam sensor on top of the block to fix that oil leak and found the oil pump shaft worn so badly that the hex was wedged into the top like a bolt with a rounded off head stuck in a socket? well I'm sure the rest of the engine is just as bad!! I did swap out the oil pump shaft with the one in that 6.2 block.
atm I can't recall if I swapped the rockers and shafts with the 6.2 block or not, but I did replace all the buttons with bolts and nuts when I tore into it. also glued to valve covers down with the right stuff so that might be a chore to open back up just for a lifter. becides I don't think I can pull lifters without pulling the heads. isn't there a keeper that bolts down under the head that would be near impossible to r & r with the heads in place?
right now as it is, the engine start and runs strong despite having half it's compression. I also did replace the injectors with some that I rebuilt my self but that noise was there prior to replacing injectors.
I have though about trying to run some cleaner in the oil since it does need an oil change, just not sure what cleaner I should use. seafoam, BG cleaner, berryman b-12... also don't know how long I can run it with the cleaner in there hoping to dissolve anything that's in there.
since it's nearing winter time, I'm also kinda worried that if I were to thicken up the oil, that might prove to be an issue for cold starts even though it doesn't get below freezing too often here, but you never know about "old man winter". all summer I run synthetic 15w40 but I usually will switch to a 5w40 for the winter months. essentially 1-2 oil changes a year mainly due to how little I drive. run the truck every day, but only about 12-15 miles a day to and from work!
Last edited:
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Ya know, it's a silly thought, but I wonder if that can of restore I used on this engine might have partially plugged up one of the lifters! I think I have doused it twice now with the oil changes. Maybe the cleaner/flush will do the trick.
jrsavoie
Recruit
I would try Hot Shot's Stiction eliminator
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Haven't heard of this before. looks like my local walmart has it in 16oz bottles. from the directions I will need two with an oil change.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Truck sounding like an exhaust leak.
Mind always goes to worst case scenario.
Pulled the airbox, CDR and AF plumbing.
Looking things over.
And so wedged the exhaust pipe from dropping, between frame rail and pipe, then pulled the flange clamp.
New clamp from Leroy. Appears to be a much sturdier unit.
The T bolt is steel, I’m figuring a grade 8 and the nut is stainless steel. Used some nickel anti seize on the threads but not sure what to torque the nut to.
Grade 8 with lubed threads says 16 ft lbs.
I snugged it down quite tight but did not go to the 16.
Emailed Leroy to get his recommendations. Not yet heard back.
It now is all back together and I didnt have to pull the inner fender and go through retorquing the exhaust manifolds and turbo.
I think this clamp was the cause, everything else from what I can see appears to be clean and soot free.
Mind always goes to worst case scenario.
Pulled the airbox, CDR and AF plumbing.
Looking things over.
And so wedged the exhaust pipe from dropping, between frame rail and pipe, then pulled the flange clamp.
New clamp from Leroy. Appears to be a much sturdier unit.
The T bolt is steel, I’m figuring a grade 8 and the nut is stainless steel. Used some nickel anti seize on the threads but not sure what to torque the nut to.
Grade 8 with lubed threads says 16 ft lbs.
I snugged it down quite tight but did not go to the 16.
Emailed Leroy to get his recommendations. Not yet heard back.
It now is all back together and I didnt have to pull the inner fender and go through retorquing the exhaust manifolds and turbo.
I think this clamp was the cause, everything else from what I can see appears to be clean and soot free.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
And another glowshift sending unit failure.
Happened when I was on my way to the cabin.
Pressure at IP was dropping and it appeared that the LP pressure had dropped off some. LP pressure had dropped to about 12 PSI and the IP pressure was dropping as low as five and six PSI.
Before leaving the crabin I turned up the regulator at the LP to 14 PSI and when time came on home.
Got home and tested the GS POS sending unit and sure enough, failed.
Emailed GS support and promptly Monday morning received a reply, yup, I followed the proper test procedure and a replacement was immediately on the way. In the mean time I ordered a spare so now this replacement will not ever fail.
But that dont tell me what the pressure is at the IP so being I had a T inline that was plugged, made this little Mr Gasket FP gauge a permanent fixture.
It goes to only 15PSI but thats okay. Most it will ever see is 14.
The IP pressure was about a pound or two high so backed it offt to 14 or so.
LP pressure, sender hooked to the gauge through a toggle switch, thanks to @Will L. for such a cool idea, two senders, one gauge.
And the little mechanical unit under the hood.
The MrGasket gauge does bounce slightly so I might add another snubber to see if that will steady the needle.
Dont want it to jiggle itself to death.
Happened when I was on my way to the cabin.
Pressure at IP was dropping and it appeared that the LP pressure had dropped off some. LP pressure had dropped to about 12 PSI and the IP pressure was dropping as low as five and six PSI.
Before leaving the crabin I turned up the regulator at the LP to 14 PSI and when time came on home.
Got home and tested the GS POS sending unit and sure enough, failed.
Emailed GS support and promptly Monday morning received a reply, yup, I followed the proper test procedure and a replacement was immediately on the way. In the mean time I ordered a spare so now this replacement will not ever fail.
But that dont tell me what the pressure is at the IP so being I had a T inline that was plugged, made this little Mr Gasket FP gauge a permanent fixture.
It goes to only 15PSI but thats okay. Most it will ever see is 14.
The IP pressure was about a pound or two high so backed it offt to 14 or so.
LP pressure, sender hooked to the gauge through a toggle switch, thanks to @Will L. for such a cool idea, two senders, one gauge.
And the little mechanical unit under the hood.
The MrGasket gauge does bounce slightly so I might add another snubber to see if that will steady the needle.
Dont want it to jiggle itself to death.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
The LP pressure had been hanging right at 15 PSI.
When I fueled the last two times it was the winter blend fuel, cloud point at -18*F.
I wonder if that would have created the drop in the LP pressure ? ? ? ?
When I fueled the last two times it was the winter blend fuel, cloud point at -18*F.
I wonder if that would have created the drop in the LP pressure ? ? ? ?
Big T
Well-Known Member
So I was helping my brother clear a landscaping drain at his home in Corona Del Mar. Headed to Home Depot in Costa Mesa to rent a power snake and I broke a tie rod on my ‘99 Suburban. It was on the right front where I was having issues with the tie rope loose in knuckle from over reaming it during the GMT 800 brake conversion. Have all the parts to redo the front end, but just have had backlog of projects that prevented me from getting to it. Now it has been expedited.
Waiting for AAA to tow it from Costa Mesa to our Fullerton home.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Excuse me sir, you can’t park there