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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Finally got around to replacing my drivers door latch mechanism. last time I went to the pick a part yard I scavenged a decent looking one up from a truck along with a replacement drivers seat belt in good shape the same color as mine. my seat belt was tearing .

replacing it wasn't too bad after watching a youtube video from A1 Auto. they make some good instructional videos for this sort of stuff. once I was all back together I checked the close and open. works very smooth now. except after I installed the bezel around the inside handle I have a hard time opening the door from the inside! I guess the handle is worn out. my passenger rear door is the same way.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Finally got around to replacing my drivers door latch mechanism. last time I went to the pick a part yard I scavenged a decent looking one up from a truck along with a replacement drivers seat belt in good shape the same color as mine. my seat belt was tearing .

replacing it wasn't too bad after watching a youtube video from A1 Auto. they make some good instructional videos for this sort of stuff. once I was all back together I checked the close and open. works very smooth now. except after I installed the bezel around the inside handle I have a hard time opening the door from the inside! I guess the handle is worn out. my passenger rear door is the same way.
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The inside handle on driver’s side gets so much use that everything wears. I’ve been through it many times and right now handle needs to be pull fully to the end and should bump the door to open.
 
Big T said:
The inside handle on driver’s side gets so much use that everything wears. I’ve been through it many times and right now handle needs to be pull fully to the end and should bump the door to open.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what mine is doing. I have trouble opening the drivers door and the rear passenger door. I found if I pop the outer bezel off it allows the handle to pull ever so slightly more that it's just enough to release the latch! it almost seems like nothing happens in the mech while moving the handle out about half way. then you start to hear and feel the mech doing something passing the half way point. seems like the rods need to be slightly shorter!
 
dbrannon79 said:
That's exactly what mine is doing. I have trouble opening the drivers door and the rear passenger door. I found if I pop the outer bezel off it allows the handle to pull ever so slightly more that it's just enough to release the latch! it almost seems like nothing happens in the mech while moving the handle out about half way. then you start to hear and feel the mech doing something passing the half way point. seems like the rods need to be slightly shorter!
Click to expand...

For starters, the handle is probably bent. Secondarily rods probably need to be pulled and replaced, or bent a little shorter.
 
dbrannon79 said:
That's exactly what mine is doing. I have trouble opening the drivers door and the rear passenger door. I found if I pop the outer bezel off it allows the handle to pull ever so slightly more that it's just enough to release the latch! it almost seems like nothing happens in the mech while moving the handle out about half way. then you start to hear and feel the mech doing something passing the half way point. seems like the rods need to be slightly shorter!
Click to expand...
In the near future you will be buying a new door latch assembly. The handle will break off eventually. I've changed 2 on my 95, I keep a spare. They are fairly inexpensive and easy to change.

Just read back further and see you already changed it, the used one may be failing already
 
NVW said:
In the near future you will be buying a new door latch assembly. The handle will break off eventually. I've changed 2 on my 95, I keep a spare. They are fairly inexpensive and easy to change.

Just read back further and see you already changed it, the used one may be failing already
Click to expand...
Yes, I eventually had to go with a new latch.
 
Well crap. Passenger door on My CC K3500 is acting out. Just dont wanna open from the inside.
Here I was thinking that maybe that plastic rod retainer might have wore or broke partially offt.
Guess not. I dont want to mess with it. A friend and a professional body/paint man will get this job.
I have a huge disliking for anything doors on wehicles. 😵‍💫😖😩😹😹😹
 
Yeah I was thinking this too. I replaced it on the drivers door since the metal on the latch that flanges out where the striker slides in was thin and breaking off. it had some bad wear on it. it closes very smooth now, but driving home from work today I noticed the door makes a loud "bam, bam" as I drive over a rough patch. kinda sounds like a hammer hitting the center pilar where the striker is.

it closes all the way and doesn't move as if it's not completely latched. I am assuming the door is bouncing and the striker is banging on the latch hammering on the flange part like it did with the old one and wore that area off. both front doors have new pins and bushings in them but you can still feel a slight amount of movement in the hinge picking up on the doors. nothing like it was before I did the new pins and bushings though.
 
Something that just occured to me. does the GMT400 striker bolts for the doors use a nylon bushing around the skinny of the bolt like the old square body trucks did? all four of my doors don't have this on the striker bolts. if so, that would explain the loosness and noise where the door bangs on a rough road. I know even on the Freightliner's at work have this bushing on their strikers.
 
Here’s a couple of pics of my old latch. Look at the grove that on the inside!! I cleaned it up some with brake cleaner to see just how banged up it is!!

48E1A848-23A6-49AD-A088-1E7D24C7A1BE.jpegAA1056B4-D5F1-4E40-BFE8-01B1A3DA9EA3.jpeg
 
haha! yea it has seen better days lol. the new junk yard one looks much better :) I went out and looked closely at the door and held the handle up while sliding it open and closed again. it seems the striker is riding on the upper part of the latch like the door is sagging a tiny bit. I wonder if there is any adjustment in the striker or I need to look at the oversize bushing and replace them again.
 
dbrannon79 said:
haha! yea it has seen better days lol. the new junk yard one looks much better :) I went out and looked closely at the door and held the handle up while sliding it open and closed again. it seems the striker is riding on the upper part of the latch like the door is sagging a tiny bit. I wonder if there is any adjustment in the striker or I need to look at the oversize bushing and replace them again.
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Unless the hinges have been replaced, there is but one adjustment. Straight up and down and bottom in/out and same with top.
If the gap at the front is narrower than the gap at the back of the door, can use a block of wood, careful You dont skewer up Your back and lift on the back of the door while pushing it towards a closed position with a piece of a 2X4 below the lower hinge.
To Me that is a last resort but I have had great success using that method.
 
I think the bushing were those from the help section at the auto parts. I have read online recently that those were the 💩 pweter style bushing that don't last very long. iirc the pins did fit a little loose in them when they were installed new. I saw some oversized ones (0.020 over) that have some really good reviews on amazon made out of real bronze material. might be worth while to try that route before trying to flex on the door.

might as well order all new striker bolts too. giving the one on the drivers door a look and I see teeth marks where someone used a pair of vice grips on the head.
 
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