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We had a run-away twice on the 1994 K3500. Wife had it happen to her and then drove

jrsavoie

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We had a run-away twice on the 1994 K3500.

Wife had it happen to her and then drove home without issue. I drove 5 hours today and it happened again. It's not so much fun as a guy would think.

I've never heard of a black Standyne PMD having a run away before.

Has anybody heard of black Standyne PMD's doing this?

Are there other possible causes?

I replaced the PMD after it happened to me.
 
I know it's normally a PMD, but I had an ECM do it. Would scare the heck out of me in a parking lot when it would go WOT in reverse.
 
Did the replacement PMD solve the problem?
It appeared to. I drove another 4 1/2 hours after the swap without incident. But then the truck was driven 5 hours without incident after the wife had it happen to her.

I'm leaning towards the PMD. I guess the only way to tell is to drive it and see if it happens with this PMD
 
Mine was an intake mounted PMD (just bought the truck and hadnt started my own mods). I relocated the heat sink to behind the bumper and added a new Grey Standyne and 6ft cable from leroy. 50K miles and no issues.
 
I do wish I could replicate that power in a safe manner. My brakes couldn't hold the truck, I smoked my tires and blew one heck of a cloud.

Sent from: Source Unknown
 
Are there other possible causes?

Mine started to do this with a recently installed reman'd injection pump, but commonly with my foot on the pedal (specifically, if I put the APP / TPS to idle, the engine would idle); mechanic traced it down to the electronics on the IP and told me there was a code (do not remember the number) that the ECM stored but did not turn on the idiot light. Other symptoms were:
- in Park or Neutral, I could not hold any RPM over ~750 and it would just rev toward red-line until I put the TPS back to idle.
- in cruise it would mildly buck when going downhill like it tried to find / hunt for the correct power setting.
- I do recall some outright surges that continued after I put the TPS back to idle, but they only lasted for a fraction of a second.

Am currently waiting on replacement of the reman'd IP with a new one.
 
I tried it going down the road and it did. Just yesterday as a matter of fact. And I have a witness that had to clean his drawers. My truck doesn't have park and I didn't push any lever. These vehicles get older those locks don't work as well. Especially 94 and older. Many you can pull the key out while the truck is running. Then shut the truck off and start it without the key. My 89 was real good for that.

FYI -- the key WON'T go to lock when it's not in park, or without pushing the leaver behind the key for manuals.... try it in your driveway and see....
 
There is a small code reader called "c-reader" also available from Mac tools called a cd-50 (might be updated part number currently). When I was a Mac guy I sold a lot of these for hard to track problems like this, they were only $60. You plug it into the obd connector and leave it there(no cables and small). It records a 24 hour continious loop so you plug it in and forget it until a problem comes up. Then take it out when you get home and plug into any computer and you know what part if the unit is going psyco. You would know the parameters so you could duplicate it and get that power out of it for when you want it also.

This is also a good little tattle tale for when Jr is out the the family hot rod. Hope this helps- I would hate to hear of a more dangerous outcome.
 
Wow, glad nothing happend to any of the occupants! I would never want to go through this. I had a stalling PMD at 172K, bought a Stanadyne black replacement and im at 252K no issues.
 
Makes me like mechanical IPs

Whenever I mess with old tractors trying to get them going I always have some type of cap in my hand that will fit over the intake manifold. :thumbsup:

Since it shutdown with the key it has to be the IP making it go wild. If it was getting oil from the turbo shutting off the fuel wouldn't help.
 
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