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Waterless Coolant

Book warning!! Get your coffee ready...

I agree it is competitor talking smack however, anything they put to print that is inaccurate opems them to huge lawsuit.

One thing I learned in working with fuels being produced that you may not know ot be taking into account is about temperature reading accuracy.

One of the owners of the company (guy that started experiments of plastic to oils/fuels back in the 70's) also taught applied physics at the university. He brought in some beakers and bunson burners for a demonstration of different materials vs different thermocouples (temp probes) after an event...

Ever notice that a thermometer probe for testing food cooked is different metal than that for testing a persons under their tounge? How about different metal for testing engine oil/transmission fluid temp is different than one for the engine coolant? They are different metals and different scales and ADJUSTED DIFFERENTLY for a reason.

Thermal conductivity of the material being measured - in this case the ability of the liquid to transfer it's heat to the probe can have a huge difference. For instance thermal factor of diesel fuel (0.13) compared to ethelyne glycol (0.258). We made and were "cooking & cooling" into existance diesel fuel and used ethelyne glycol to control the cooling for mass production, so I know those numbers quite well. What they mean is basically one is almost exactly twice as thermally conductive as the other, obvious which is better. But did you know that if you let the 19 year old kid who is helping out, install the 2 probes in each others place without double checking him, it almost causes a massive explosion that nearly killed us and anyone driving by at the time? So glad I believe in the theory of end the process if it doesn't "feel right" regardless of monitors and money lost. Multple back up monitors were the next plant modification for some reason. Haha.

So back in track, you would really need to know the thermal conductivity of the evans (or other product) and use an appropriate probe. I know, they will tell you to use the stock one. Just ask yourself why if the same exact one works on coolant and oils, why do auto, semi, and heavy equipment manufacturers spend the extra money to use different ones in production when any 14 year old knows using multiples of the same one would save them money and increase their profit. How far off are they?

Next is how much slower reacting is the waterless to transfer it's heat. And keep in mind it isn't just slower at transferring it to the probe, it is slower at the block and heads transferring heat into the evans and the evans into the radiator. I believe it was @Sand here (correct if I'm wrong) that just in the last month or so commented how with his new balanced flow waterpump he can watch his temp accurately swing up and down like a pendulum as the t-stats are opening and closing. Think you get that fast a reaction with something that takes twice as long (probably longer actually) to transfer its heat to the probe? Nope, laws of physics says it cannont. If you want to know how accurate it really is and want the best thing on the planet, it is not environmentally friendy, and adds a bit of weight, but the best? Mecury. Lets see if my Hummer holds about 4 gallons....haha.

Remeber that high speed tube I mentioned before that the pilot (more than driver) got burned under from the evans? Inside that the engine we some some no-bueno stuff that because of racing competition I agreed to not share, but I know he won't mind me saying 2 things. 1. More than just the valve seats they mentioned see damage, they didnt run it hard and long enough. (<--Take it away Leroy) 2. Their 5-7% power loss is them being conservative in the event of a lawsuit.

Also the competitor, my bet is, when they are testing the temperature of the heads, it is not with a probed device in liquid, they are reading surface temps of the metal itself. They also are doing it on a gas engine, not a turbo diesel. My egt numbers are up there. WarWagon posted some high sustained numbers above mine. I wonder what that amount if added heat would do. The difference of my egt at 900 vs 1100 at the bottom of a hill is the difference at the top is 65mph vs 50mph and 195* vs 220*.

If you dont want any piting from coolant boiling off against your heads, and dont mind higher block and head temps, do like we used to at the track- block filler. Same results, just at a higher rung of the ladder.
 
Only EVANS downside I have found so far on the 5.9 Cummins is the need for a different block heater and the addition of a "What could possibly go wrong" $500 pump. (Ebay HOT START HEATER - CTM15110-N00 ) It's an inconvenience without using the block heater, with our mild weather at and above freezing, with the time it takes the 5.9 to warm up. The NV5600 is really cranky cold requiring double clutching till it warms up. The trans needs a heater more than the engine IMO...

I haven't had a block heater on my 6.2's since I dropped the engines in 6+ years ago.

http://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/service-bulletin/

The use of Engine Pre-Heaters with Evans Waterless Coolant.

Evans does not recommend certain types of block heaters that are not compatible with waterless coolant applications. These units are typically direct immersion styles and tank heaters that use a very high watt-density heating element and depend upon natural thermo-syphoning to warm and circulate engine coolant for cold start applications. Due to the high temperature densities of these devices and their uneven circulation capabilities, use with waterless coolant subjects the coolant to coking and the heating element to premature burn-out.
 
Hahaha! And to keep them from igniting the flammable coolant and blowing the side of your block out! Do some searching, youll find some examples of people not following directions and using stock plug in heaters overnight to be awoke to a truck on fire to afterwards see a hole in the block. There was one I saw a few years back looking on a ford forum trying to find info on a 7.3 having hard start issues and trying to see how hot the coolant should be before noglow plugs were needed.
 
Actually, Lets see if we can get some vendor support here . . .

@LanduytG (Lubrication Specialist) Any insight in terms of how Evans' service bulletin (http://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/service-bulletin/) applies to the 6.5? Does the waterless coolant have an issue with our OE 600W block heating element? If there is a threshold where the waterless coolant starts to show issues with heater, what / when are they?
 
Hahaha! And to keep them from igniting the flammable coolant and blowing the side of your block out! Do some searching, youll find some examples of people not following directions and using stock plug in heaters overnight to be awoke to a truck on fire to afterwards see a hole in the block. There was one I saw a few years back looking on a ford forum trying to find info on a 7.3 having hard start issues and trying to see how hot the coolant should be before noglow plugs were needed.

So this is what they mean by "burn-out"? :facepalm:

Seriously having trouble getting past the brake switch cruise control caused fires, Chevy's 'we gots the real Blazer', wiring, block heater cord caused fires... And even then the engine and transmission oil appear to be more flammable.

So perhaps there is a stick on or other heater that would work without a pump?

I still recall back in the early 90's I went snowmobiling and the driver towing the sled trailer had one of the Cummins supplied conversion kit dropped in a Ford. He had added (I assume it wasn't part of the Cummins kit.) a propane fired coolant heater under the hood. I was concerned about our ride home burning to the ground watching him light the damn thing under the hood with a Zippo! :eek:
 
Figure out if they want the maximum coolant temp by direct heat to only get the temp to 100* to prevent their cooling oil from coking. For those not familiar, coking is basically cooking an oil into a char about the same as what your bbq looks like after a cookout.

So direct contact with high heat metal basically is burning the oil into a char. Now foes anyone wonder what it is like in the tight recesses of the heads where we already know coolant doesn't flow well, like where 6.2/6.5 heads crack and the temperature there is usually only 250* cooler than measured egt coming out of the manifolds? Hmm.

One option is use the stick on heater silicone pads that warm the engine oil intead. Maybe add a solid wall tank from aluminum about the size of the silicone pads you buy. Have it mounted low to try getting thermal flowor add a small circulation pump inline with the heater hose on the return side of the heater hose circuit.

Another would be to correct the faulty cooling system to the proven new design, use normal antifreeze with some surfactant (like water wetter), and not have to worry about it.
 
Ok, I broke the 'guy-rule' and reached out for some input by Evans.

Seems the issue is block heaters with a copper element. When the waterless coolant gets to the boiling point at the element, the copper erodes and also shortens the lifespan of the coolant. Block heaters with stainless or Incalloy are apparently not a factor in terms of erosion but there is no commentary yet in terms of coking.

The 6.5's OE 600W element is not at high risk but there is recommendation to limit the 'On' time to 4 hours (not sure if this presumes a starting / cold temperature) and commentary that the erosion will still happen.

In digging into the Hotstart recommendation by Evans, it uses an Incalloy element and uses an internal thermostat. Am finding coolant circulating models around $140 (some sources more, some less).

Will let others determine whether going the coolant circulating heater route is worth it. Definitely adds cost and at the same time there are benefits.
 
Sounds to me like they need to read their own information. Taken from the link you posted above:

"Due to the high temperature densities of these devices and their uneven circulation capabilities, use with waterless coolant subjects the coolant to coking and the heating element to premature burn-out."

Right there they mention coking an issue. ANY OIL IS SUBJECT TO COKING. It is hydrocarbon, and hydrocarbons coke under heat. "Coke" is mostly carbon, and when you buen away the hydrogen you are left with carbon...

Haha. Clowns cant even agree with themselves.
 
Actually, Lets see if we can get some vendor support here . . .

@LanduytG (Lubrication Specialist) Any insight in terms of how Evans' service bulletin (http://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/service-bulletin/) applies to the 6.5? Does the waterless coolant have an issue with our OE 600W block heating element? If there is a threshold where the waterless coolant starts to show issues with heater, what / when are they?

I had bought several cases of EVANS from LS some years ago, now rethinking using it in the 5.9 12 valve..
 
Given the climate in Florida, not much of a factor in terms of the current discussion.

Seems that the rub with Evans coolant is when using an immersed heat element that does not circulate the coolant and / or regulate temperature of when it is 'On'.

Am personally looking into whether I want to find something that will circulate the coolant and turn 'Off' based on coolant temperature, or use a pad to heat the oil sump. A circulation pump has an advantage of even heating across the block and the sump heater has an advantage of simplicity.

Aside, looks like Lubrication Specialists is no longer carrying Evans.
 
Figure out if they want the maximum coolant temp by direct heat to only get the temp to 100* to prevent their cooling oil from coking. For those not familiar, coking is basically cooking an oil into a char about the same as what your bbq looks like after a cookout.

So direct contact with high heat metal basically is burning the oil into a char. Now foes anyone wonder what it is like in the tight recesses of the heads where we already know coolant doesn't flow well, like where 6.2/6.5 heads crack and the temperature there is usually only 250* cooler than measured egt coming out of the manifolds? Hmm.

One option is use the stick on heater silicone pads that warm the engine oil intead. Maybe add a solid wall tank from aluminum about the size of the silicone pads you buy. Have it mounted low to try getting thermal flowor add a small circulation pump inline with the heater hose on the return side of the heater hose circuit.

Another would be to correct the faulty cooling system to the proven new design, use normal antifreeze with some surfactant (like water wetter), and not have to worry about it.

I would suggest that "Does not flow well" is still flowing leaving the question of exposure time that could cause coking. So is it lack of any flow plus high heat that is causing the problem like any oil experiences? Some critical temperature for a specific exposure time? Like the known situation of a high performance drive with a hot turbo that gets you pulled over and instructions to shut off the engine, NOW! Oil was fine till it quit flowing in the hot turbo, coked up, and then on restart you have turbo problems. (Some questionable oil will sludge anyway under extreme conditions, but, this is another discussion and more engine specific.) IMO Evans isn't supplying enough information, but, if you just treat it like "oil" one may be able to run assumptions on theory.

And any oil experiencing coking means the same caution is needed trying to heat the transmission and engine oil. For 3 months out of the year we do touch 32F and sometimes freeze the exposed water pipes so heating the engine is a convenience esp. to blow the frost or condensation off the windows. RV use in high elevation campsites see lower temps in AZ that could really benefit from the block heater use. (Space heater on a timer in the cab does work on gas engines to defrost windows. Gas engines heat up a hellva lot faster than diesels esp. at idle. The 5.9 of mine takes way longer than the 6.2 to heat up even with the exhaust brake on. MT vs. auto a factor in warm up?)

Couple of other questions I have had/have to solve:
Heater core suspected to be clogged. How do you flush it with Evans in the system? Shop's answer was to use AC flush and treat it like a evaporator to keep water contamination out of the system. Heater Treater blend door was found out of adjustment at the end of the day.

I have yet to solve WTF to do about the overflow bottle. The stuff is hygroscopic like brake fluid, yet, I am supposed to fill the overflow to the full cold line per Evans instructions. :wtf: Evans expands more when hot so I can't do without the overflow bottle.

We have already dragged the 13,000 GVW 5th wheel up the Mongolian Rim with the HO 5.9 so any doubts about EVANS handling that extreme 6.5 killer grade are answered. Oh yeah: single digit MPG doing that due to aerodynamics of a tall sail the 5er has...
 
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[QUOTE="WarWagon, post: 535634, member: 4905" Gas engines heat up a hellva lot faster than diesels esp. at idle. The 5.9 of mine takes way longer than the 6.2 to heat up even with the exhaust brake on. MT vs. auto a factor in warm up?)
..[/QUOTE]

The heat up time difference is due to the difference between DI and IDI motors. The IDI motors hold heat around the pre-cups, while DI motors shed heat from the heads much faster. That's also why IDI motors have a much better cab heater.

Don
 
Agree that Evans' service bulletin needs more information to include test results of various combinations.

Based on E-mail conversation with Evans so far, seems the core issue is that a submersed element in Evans coolant does not create as much current (liquid) flow as a 50/50 coolant. 50/50 coolant apparently boils at the element where this action helps with creating a current flow. With the Evans coolant, boiling appears to occur at a higher temperature and when coupled with the lower flow it introduces the opportunity for coking at some point (seems that the magic number is above 100* F when combined with heating elements above 1Kw; also lower powered elements like our 600W OE will eventually get there). Am drawing this implication based on discussions about limitations of non-circulating coolant heaters.

So far, the only concrete statements toward when the coolant starts to coke are power of the element (as measured by wattage) over time. For our 600w element, the recommendation is to limit to 4 hours with 5 max, but the guidance did not include a starting / cold temperature of the coolant and there are no guarantees that coking will not happen even when limiting the 'On' time of the element.

Truly wish I had better details to share . . .

Regarding Evans coolant attracting water, I am waiting on a response to that question as I am sure that at one time the guidance was to drill a hole in the pressure cap.
 
Agree that Evans' service bulletin needs more information to include test results of various combinations.

Based on E-mail conversation with Evans so far, seems the core issue is that a submersed element in Evans coolant does not create as much current (liquid) flow as a 50/50 coolant. 50/50 coolant apparently boils at the element where this action helps with creating a current flow. With the Evans coolant, boiling appears to occur at a higher temperature and when coupled with the lower flow it introduces the opportunity for coking at some point (seems that the magic number is above 100* F when combined with heating elements above 1Kw; also lower powered elements like our 600W OE will eventually get there). Am drawing this implication based on discussions about limitations of non-circulating coolant heaters.

So far, the only concrete statements toward when the coolant starts to coke are power of the element (as measured by wattage) over time. For our 600w element, the recommendation is to limit to 4 hours with 5 max, but the guidance did not include a starting / cold temperature of the coolant and there are no guarantees that coking will not happen even when limiting the 'On' time of the element.

Truly wish I had better details to share . . .

Regarding Evans coolant attracting water, I am waiting on a response to that question as I am sure that at one time the guidance was to drill a hole in the pressure cap.

I have an email archived when I asked EVANS TECH about removing and boiling off water if necessary, their reply was yes its OK to do that.

I ran the zero pressure cap always, LS sells a diesel fueled coolant heater that circulates the coolant 'pricey but effective', I have a diesel fueled cabin heater from LS too.
 
[QUOTE="WarWagon, post: 535634, member: 4905" Gas engines heat up a hellva lot faster than diesels esp. at idle. The 5.9 of mine takes way longer than the 6.2 to heat up even with the exhaust brake on. MT vs. auto a factor in warm up?)
..

The heat up time difference is due to the difference between DI and IDI motors. The IDI motors hold heat around the pre-cups, while DI motors shed heat from the heads much faster. That's also why IDI motors have a much better cab heater.

Don[/QUOTE]

:facepalm: How did I forget that prechamber cooling load adding to the cab heater?
 
Drawback of using evans in a cold climate because: time and temperature limited heater. Then the lower thermal transfer of the oil compared to water/ antifreeze. So it takes longer for the element to heat the evans, then longer for the evans to heat the cylinders. An actual thermal number of the evans could tell you exactly how much longer you would have to heat evans to get it to the same temp as you would with water based coolant.
 
Drawback of using evans in a cold climate because: time and temperature limited heater. Then the lower thermal transfer of the oil compared to water/ antifreeze. So it takes longer for the element to heat the evans, then longer for the evans to heat the cylinders. An actual thermal number of the evans could tell you exactly how much longer you would have to heat evans to get it to the same temp as you would with water based coolant.
I did have to cover the Burb's grill with weather cover to keep temps up the few times I was in a cold location.
 
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