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Water In Fuel, the Light Said

So drove the truck around the block, no problems and no codes. Shut it down and came out 2 hours later to run an errand with it and same three codes show up and it's hard to start. Clear the codes and start it and codes immediately come back. Engine runs fine from idle to 3000 rpm. Above 3000 I get the following misses:

 
So after posting the video, I went out to put the Burb in the backyard. Cleared codes and started right up. Revved to the redline at 3500 and it ran smooth with no misses, like earlier in the day. I am certain the codes will come back. Wondering if my optic sensor needs cleaning or maybe it's toast?
 
That could be it. It is getting intermittent blockage of seeing the wheel.

I would be tempted to undo all the injector lines into bucket or bottles. Then feed gasoline into the IP. Crank it over so the gas washes the inside of the ip, and kills anything that may have stared a colony in there. Have to run it dry and maybe an airhose afterwards. Then crank through diesel before hooking lines back up. Mind you I said tempted, Not sure that is the greatest idea I have had today.

If it doesn't recover, sure would be a good time for adb2 conversion...
 
Will L. said:
That could be it. It is getting intermittent blockage of seeing the wheel.

I would be tempted to undo all the injector lines into bucket or bottles. Then feed gasoline into the IP. Crank it over so the gas washes the inside of the ip, and kills anything that may have stared a colony in there. Have to run it dry and maybe an airhose afterwards. Then crank through diesel before hooking lines back up. Mind you I said tempted, Not sure that is the greatest idea I have had today.

If it doesn't recover, sure would be a good time for adb2 conversion...
Click to expand...
Remember, he's in Cali so db2 would be out of the question I suspect.
 
Big T said:
So drove the truck around the block, no problems and no codes. Shut it down and came out 2 hours later to run an errand with it and same three codes show up and it's hard to start. Clear the codes and start it and codes immediately come back. Engine runs fine from idle to 3000 rpm. Above 3000 I get the following misses:

Click to expand...
STRANGE
 
While looking around on the interent, I found at least one post where a guy said he pulled the optic sensor and cleaned it with acetone. Anyone have any idea on how to do this?

It is weird because it will have moments of clarity with no codes and engine runs correctly. Then I try to take it for a couple mile loop and codes will reappear and inevitably it will stall while coasting to a light. It is then you realize how much power assist there is in the steering and the brakes.

Anyone know a good place to buy an optic sensor? How about injection pumps? Are the Delco remans on RockAuto a good option?
 
Big T said:
While looking around on the interent, I found at least one post where a guy said he pulled the optic sensor and cleaned it with acetone. Anyone have any idea on how to do this?

It is weird because it will have moments of clarity with no codes and engine runs correctly. Then I try to take it for a couple mile loop and codes will reappear and inevitably it will stall while coasting to a light. It is then you realize how much power assist there is in the steering and the brakes.

Anyone know a good place to buy an optic sensor? How about injection pumps? Are the Delco remans on RockAuto a good option?
Click to expand...

Codes keep returning because you have not fixed whatever is throwing them...what codes are you getting?
 
Some thought's.

Some individuals suggest removing the short filter harness at the injection pump then connect the main harness to the IP.

My 99 Burb maybe different than your 99 Burb Cali version not sure though.

When I had codes pointing to the optic sensor on my 99 Burb I also had an issue where I could not reset the timing & TDCO and codes kept returning even after I wasted money buying & replacing the optic sensor. After much research I find that the boost solenoid which was disconnected because I was running a mechanical turbo gate controller needed to be connected to the harness in order to set the timing & TDCO.

I reconnected the boost solenoid so computer could see it and because it was just sitting there doing nothing other than cycling whenever the computer told it too at any given time I placed a short hose between the two ports to keep dirt etc. out I could then set the timing & TDCO no more codes pointing to the optic sensor and the diesel ran fine from there.

Some individuals have also claimed the boost solenoid does not have to be connected and if this is true maybe something else was going on within the harness on my Burb, since I have been recently eliminating most wiring for my conversion I have found some harnesses where the insulation had melted between wires after close inspection I concluded GM should have used a heat barrier insulator cover instead of the plastic convolute type to cover the harness on the firewall behind the diesel and along the sides of the diesel, keep in mind I’m saying this is the problem you are having.

Another weird issue was “miss detected” at idle without any trouble code which pretty much drove me bat s_it crazy only to find it’s related to the larger marine injector nozzles this did not happen with the stock sized nozzles..
 
FellowTraveler said:
Some thought's.

Some individuals suggest removing the short filter harness at the injection pump then connect the main harness to the IP.

My 99 Burb maybe different than your 99 Burb Cali version not sure though.

When I had codes pointing to the optic sensor on my 99 Burb I also had an issue where I could not reset the timing & TDCO and codes kept returning even after I wasted money buying & replacing the optic sensor. After much research I find that the boost solenoid which was disconnected because I was running a mechanical turbo gate controller needed to be connected to the harness in order to set the timing & TDCO.

I reconnected the boost solenoid so computer could see it and because it was just sitting there doing nothing other than cycling whenever the computer told it too at any given time I placed a short hose between the two ports to keep dirt etc. out I could then set the timing & TDCO no more codes pointing to the optic sensor and the diesel ran fine from there.

Some individuals have also claimed the boost solenoid does not have to be connected and if this is true maybe something else was going on within the harness on my Burb, since I have been recently eliminating most wiring for my conversion I have found some harnesses where the insulation had melted between wires after close inspection I concluded GM should have used a heat barrier insulator cover instead of the plastic convolute type to cover the harness on the firewall behind the diesel and along the sides of the diesel, keep in mind I’m saying this is the problem you are having.

Another weird issue was “miss detected” at idle without any trouble code which pretty much drove me bat s_it crazy only to find it’s related to the larger marine injector nozzles this did not happen with the stock sized nozzles..
Click to expand...

The boost Solenoid has always been connected though it is not jumped across the tubes. Really that Solenoid works off vacuum from the vac pump so it's not cycling anything to the computer.

'99 K2500 diesel burbs were the same regardless of what State they were sold in and this Burb was originally sold in Delaware.

This all started when I errantly dumped a load of water contaminated fuel into the truck. Pretty certain it's the optic sensor. I will contact Conastoga Diesel today to see what they have to say.
 
Big T said:
The boost Solenoid has always been connected though it is not jumped across the tubes. Really that Solenoid works off vacuum from the vac pump so it's not cycling anything to the computer.

'99 K2500 diesel burbs were the same regardless of what State they were sold in and this Burb was originally sold in Delaware.

This all started when I errantly dumped a load of water contaminated fuel into the truck. Pretty certain it's the optic sensor. I will contact Conastoga Diesel today to see what they have to say.
Click to expand...

Solenoid is switched by computer.

 
So I'm reading that a good fuel additive should be first tried to clean the optic sensor. If that fails, then clean it with acetone.
 
Big T said:
So I'm reading that a good fuel additive should be first tried to clean the optic sensor. If that fails, then clean it with acetone.
Click to expand...
Yep, pull the cover off siphon out the fuel at the optic sensor remove it clean it and be done with it; however mark it's position so you can install it properly.......
 
I talked with Conestoga Diesel and they recommending runnind a diesel fuel additive through it, also some ATF. Failing that, pull the optic sensor and clean it using compressed air. They expressed some concern over using acetone on the plastic part. Failing that, new IP.

How hard are IPs to install? Do you have to pull off the front timing cover? How do you set the timing? Am I looking at Autoenginuity purchase?

The son's '94 Suburban purchase is looking increasingly wise as a back up because I do need the rig during the summer.
 
Swapping an IP is not too bad. Pull the upper and lower intakes. The hardest part is getting to the lower injector lines on the back of the pump. (need a 3/4 inch crows foot). Take the oil fill neck off and you can get to the three bolts that hold the gear to the pump (just don't drop them down in the engine and you won't have to take the front cover off) The gear will sit in place when you remove the pump and there is an indexing pin so the new pump will only go on one way. If you get the timing close by ear and then the pump can adjust itself to the exact timing.
 
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