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Waste Motor Oil as fuel?

Good info guys!!! I will abstain from the WMO in my 6.5s :)

... FWIW I have heard many of the IDI VW diesel guys run it and that is why I asked for our applications. Not an apples to apples comparison, unless you have a DB2 pump - then you could try.

Thanks!!!
 
For 2-stroke oil I would only add 1 quart to 34 gallons. It does the job just fine. SAE30 might be better off with 2 quarts. I havent seen the analysis proving that SAE30 adds as much lubricity as 2-stroke, but we did see used 15W-40 actually scores terribly in lubricity additive (would need a lot to work for lubrication).

Also recommend never using Lubro Molley stuff in the fuel.
 
HighSierra86 said:
One real quick question...not trying to hijack the thread....How much 2 stroke oil do you guys recomend per tank or per gallon?? Ive just been using one of the 1gal mixers every time i fill up.
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Ratio is 1:200 or about 1 quart into a 34 gal. tank or about 0.5 quarts into the 26 gal. tank. A bit more or less doesn't hurt. you also could mix 1 quart into the smaller 26 gal. tank, but there's not need for.


Cu,
Sven
 
bison said:
Only way to prove it in or out is trying it.The OS may or may not throw a tantrum.
yapping it wont work is no proof.
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Wont kill an IP by yapping though:mad2:

I've always done 1:128 ratio of SAE 30 or 2-stroke, meaning 1 oz per gallon.

I may up it though after seeing B100 and working with it. ITs mighty lubey.
 
Cummins gys all run 128:1 cause of the VP44 issues. I'd say that's a good ratio. I would not use drained motor oil in anything. I got enough repairs to do without tempting fate to do more.
 
bison said:
Dont let fear or common sense stop ye:D
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It isn't the fear, I'm basing my judgement on, I am deferring to my common sense values which may be different from yours apparently :D those; as well as my time of testing fuels and lubricants on a daily basis after a period of training provided by one of this nations finest learning institutions US Navy propulsion fuels & lubricants school (top of my class ranking, not to brag well not much) ):h providing lessons/experience there that it is not the best practice one should follow.

That, and the manufacturers recommendations that it is a bad idea, based on those experiences/recommendations I won't be doing it on my vehicles.

Now if you can figure a way for me get it to you for your vehicle, I'd be happy to supply you with all the waste oil I produce from my oil changes & you can you burn all of it that you want.

FWIW I'm not a big proponent of filtered only WVO either, though many run it with success, so it has merit for some; just not me.
 
Beyond the fact that I continue to worship TD as a guru, I just don't understand why anyone would want to put a bunch of emulsified, acid empregnated reject goo in their tank when these things don't have the best reputation and were designed for high sulfur fuel.

If you're really looking for something to do with that small amount of oil (relative to the potentially massive amount of damage it can do to your IP), try this:

Put half of it in a yard sprayer...a 5 gallon unit with a pump and variable nozzle. Go out at night and spray some under every Dodge Cummins in your neighborhood; they may be able to crush you but you can still make 'em sweat. Put a little on the bottom of the engine for extra fun. Go to work and spray some under fellow employees that annoy you. Focus on the morons that aren't capable of working on their own vehicle and within a week you'll hear about how the dealer put a new motor in the car because of the cracked block. Pissed off at moron-youth driving like morons in your neighborhood? If your streets are concrete, it'll slow the rabbit stop when the rabbit gets a lube job: hit their tires or the stop line.

What to do with the other 2.5 quarts? Pour it into the local Sonic grease bin for color.
 
What would be neat to see is an analysis of UMO and how it would impact diesel fuel. Compare it with diesel fuel itself and diesel fuel additives.

A lot of the moisture in oil would come from the fuel. Its not like fuel already doesnt have moisture in it, and it picks it up along the way. Diesel fuel and a lot of additives have acids in them for lubricity and cleaning properties. If changing oil at 3-4000 mile intervals, the modern detergent oils are not saturated with contaminants to turn to sludge.
 
there's aparently plenty of service stations that dump UMO in their bulk fuel tanks,I doubt they filter it either.

I for one am gonna try it in 1 of my tractors ,as soon as i have a working filtration system figured out. pushing the UMO trough a final 2 micron filter should render it clean enough.I plan to mix it 1:3 with diesel.

IMO,Its better to try and fail,than failing to try.
 
qwomack said:
There is an encoder ring inside with slots that coincide with the firing order through the injectors. From what I understand, the optic sensor shoots a beam of light through this encoder ring. Whenever the beam of light reaches the sensor on the other side of the slots, it triggers the PMD/FSD to fire the solenoid which starts the injection process. The best analogy I can give you is like the Mallory Unilite distributors. The rotor has slots in it that allow light to complete the circuit and fire the coil.
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Sure seems important to keep clean then, starting inj process at proper time sounds like a good idea.
 
bison said:
there's aparently plenty of service stations that dump UMO in their bulk fuel tanks,I doubt they filter it either.

I for one am gonna try it in 1 of my tractors ,as soon as i have a working filtration system figured out. pushing the UMO trough a final 2 micron filter should render it clean enough.I plan to mix it 1:3 with diesel.

IMO,Its better to try and fail,than failing to try.
Click to expand...

Filter replacement may be too costly to reap savings... Only one way to find out! Keep us informed!
 
bison said:
there's aparently plenty of service stations that dump UMO in their bulk fuel tanks,I doubt they filter it either.

I for one am gonna try it in 1 of my tractors ,as soon as i have a working filtration system figured out. pushing the UMO trough a final 2 micron filter should render it clean enough.I plan to mix it 1:3 with diesel.

IMO,Its better to try and fail,than failing to try.
Click to expand...

A 1:3 ratio could save a lot of money.

Thats where it becomes really not as useful in an elctronic injection 6.5, since I'd imagine more than 1:16 ratio would not work reliably. Unless youve already got the filtration and storage for other vehicles, then it might be worth it, or you put a whole lot of miles on your truck in a year.
 
buddy said:
A 1:3 ratio could save a lot of money.

Thats where it becomes really not as useful in an elctronic injection 6.5, since I'd imagine more than 1:16 ratio would not work reliably. Unless youve already got the filtration and storage for other vehicles, then it might be worth it, or you put a whole lot of miles on your truck in a year.
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I go trough roughly $5-6000 worth of diesel a yr at current prices of 60-70 cnt a ltr.
You do the math,
 
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