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Vibration at idle in drive

BTW back on point with the new Diamond Eye exhaust I put on last night it seems to be doing it in Neutral and drive now but now reverse which leads me even further to a Motor mount but I am still thinking of doing a fluidampr anyway. After seeing what happened to the parts truck I am buying....Balancers have put a new fear in me.
 
Well since I put the new exhaust on it feels worse. Actually doing it in neutral as well. The rubber on the balancer looks fine although the balancer does seem o have a slight wobble to it. It's tight just when the truck is running it doesn't seem 100% true. Is that normal ? I may throw a Fluidampr on it.
 
Well, I ordered a Fluidampr. Anybody know what tool I need to install it ? I have a universal puller but I don't have an intsaller. I was always able to get it on with the crank bolt with gassers. Anyone know what size the crank bolt is ? Any reason I couldn't just get a long bolts and walk it on with that ?
 
I rented a balancer remover/installer kit from either AutoZone or Advance which worked perfectly.

I personally wouldn't try putting it on with the crank bolt, but it may work.
 
Don't use the crank bolt!! If you do you are risking messing up the threads inside the crank. Turning the bolt into the crank,putting pressure on the balancer, puts a lot of pressure on the threads and putting the threads at risk of damage. This is just like the reasoning behind using head studs instead of head bolts. I once used this "bolt into the end of the shaft" method when putting a pulley onto a power steering pump and almost ruined the pump.

Instead, get as long of a bolt as possible, threaded up the shank as far as possible. Put a nut and heavy flat washer on and run them up as far as possible on the bolt. Get the balancer started on the crank then thread the bolt into the crank as far as possible. It should be at least as deep into the crank as the diameter of the bolt, if not farther. THEN, use the nut to put pressure on the balancer and press it onto the crank. This way if there is any problem with damaging threads from the pressure the damage is on a bolt you can throw away, not on a crank you may end up having to throw away.

Don
 
GM Manual says to do what AK said but i have a real issue taking a hammer to a 400$ Balancer. I just find it odd that no one makes the correct tool to install it. For 8$ I got a M16-1.5x120mm Bolt and nut on order.
 
If you read the directions, Fluidamper says do not hammer damper!!! A universal harmonic balancer installer kit would have the correct adapter to thread into the crank.
My damper went on very tight, If I was to use the crank bolt to pull it on I would have definitly stripped the crank.
 
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Every universal installer I looked at did not have the m16x1.5 . I ordered a long bolt to make one. I am not hitting that balancer with a hammer.
 
I,ve got one of those high dollar tools that installs and removes the HB it came with an assortment of thread inserts. Im almost positive Ive used it on a couple 6.5's
You can borrow it for postage and a deposit.
I'll get a pic of it if you like?
 
Summit. They were 409$. Heath was 414$ and I was more tempted to order from Bill because of the help he always gives but time was a factor and on average Summit stuff usually arrives in 2 days with no extra charge. This time was no exception. In fact I probably won't have the Mac Tool I bought till next week but I'm gonna do the install this weekend with a homemade tool cause my luck would be a broken crank the day the tool comes...:suicide:
 
well, Fluidampr made no difference. Changed the tranny mount, no difference. Pulled the tranny cover (PIA) and the flexplate looks fine and running true. The motor mounts look fine. I'm outta ideas. Time to sell it....Shame, it's the cleanest one I have ever seen. Even the fuel lines on the chassis are not rusted but I need a reliable towing rig and this thing doesn't seem to be it. Should have kept the Dually and sold this thing. I'll grab some holy water from church next sunday. it fixed my other burb...:D
 
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