• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Valve cover picture request.

Will L.

Will L.

Well-Known Member
Messages
19,147
Reaction score
36,857
Location
Boulder City Nv
Can someone post a pic of their valve cover showing part number from a pickup?
I have pics of a 2004 GEP optimizer and a 99 GM van with centermount turbo- they are the same.
Just wondering if the normal pickup one is the same. I am using the one with the breather hole..

THANKS!
E440BE1C-CF86-4F4F-A87B-DAE4EE6D462C.jpegAD239A79-77BA-4566-8813-2D3CBBDBBDB9.jpeg
 
Yeah- that is what it seems to me. I looked at an 88 6.2 in a pickup and it’s identical too.
But no telling if it got them swapped while it was still a mining truck in Colorado.

I was hoping to get pics of the matching part number from a 90’s pickup to be 100%
 
I know GEP bought the stamping dies and all from GM. But hilarious to me is even the number 6 being bigger in these is identical- from actually a 99 gmc Savanna (the dirtier one) and my 2004 GEP optimizer. Definitely same die stamp. Haha
 
Thank you Will for starting this thread. I have to admit that he likely did it to answer my question - which was "does the H1 have a special passenger side valve cover?" I was told by a H1 expert that the driver's side was the same as the 6.5 truck valve cover, but the passenger side was different. Well, I took a leap and ordered a GM Genuine valve cover for half the cost of what the Hummer parts sites were charging, and low and behold - they're the same. Same part numbers, same dimensions, same finish, same everything. Pictured is one "Hummer" valve cover and one "6.5 Truck" valve cover.
1665579747002.png
 
I didn’t think so. Thought maybe There was the possibility they might have done something wonky for the centermount vans and hummers to deal with the ridiculous intake manifold-
But when I compared the 99 van engine I have to mine- nopers.

There is several parts suppliers that simply charge a ‘hummer tax’ = if it says hummer they charge 25% more. SMH

I did find that doorman makes a valve cover- that looks the same, but never touched or saw in person. So might be identical part relabeled or they might make their own. But seeing as how most of their parts are worse than originals, I think I would pass.
 
Passenger side valve cover from a 2004 GEP motor - sorry upside down and under fuel lines. Without breather hole. No "GM" stamped in cover like the driver side cover from my pickup. 12564564, I believe.
1665796717406.png
 
SnowDrift said:
Dorman usually translates to "OK last resort. Find something else if possible, even if you have to pay more money"

...paraphrasing, but it's something like that.

As much as I hear chatter about these valve covers leaking, I wouldn't even consider a Dorman for something like this.
Click to expand...

I’ve had all sorts of problems with leaks. Last time I installed a GM Original and it is still leaking, though much less. I recently bought the Leroy valve cover girdle kit. Should probably buy two new valve covers for when I do the job. Really getting tired of the leaking blood trail, though it is not that bad now.
 
Big T said:
I’ve had all sorts of problems with leaks. Last time I installed a GM Original and it is still leaking, though much less. I recently bought the Leroy valve cover girdle kit. Should probably buy two new valve covers for when I do the job. Really getting tired of the leaking blood trail, though it is not that bad now.
Click to expand...
How did you seal the valve covers?
 
When my motor was getting rebuilt, the valve cover edges were a bit upturned from removal. So, first I had them media blasted and then I worked the edges flat. Checked with straight edge and then on a table for rocking.
Re-installed them with RTV on both sides of gaskets, the covers and heads. Yeah, every other thread says no gasket needed but, after over 25k miles and with two or more years of breaks between being run…still no leaks.
“Your results may vary.”
 
Paveltolz said:
When my motor was getting rebuilt, the valve cover edges were a bit upturned from removal. So, first I had them media blasted and then I worked the edges flat. Checked with straight edge and then on a table for rocking.
Re-installed them with RTV on both sides of gaskets, the covers and heads. Yeah, every other thread says no gasket needed but, after over 25k miles and with two or more years of breaks between being run…still no leaks.
“Your results may vary.”
Click to expand...
Have you run synthetic oil?
 
when I did my covers, I cleaned all the old "hard as a rock" gasket off, cleaned them up and used a straight edge. even went as far as taking the cover upside down and slightly tapping the holes so they were a hair bent outward so when I tightened them down it had more of a chance to grab the gasket further away from the holes first.

in my experience when going back with a new gasket on any cover or pan, I have always put a light coat of RTV on the metal surface and both sides of the gasket. lay the gasket flat on the metal surface of the cover or pan, line it up with the bolt holes and let is sit for about an hour till it's fairly secured and tacky. then install. sometimes I don't use RTV on the side if the gasket that's on the engine, I would use the old permatex #2 that never hardens or really dries up. but only a very thin layer. any of that gasket goop will cause the gasket to slip or ooze out of place causing a leak if your not careful.

I have seen some use the yellow gorilla snot on everything... (3M weatherstrip adhesive) good luck getting that cover off without destroying it. that stuff makes for a bad day for any person.
 
dbrannon79 said:
when I did my covers, I cleaned all the old "hard as a rock" gasket off, cleaned them up and used a straight edge. even went as far as taking the cover upside down and slightly tapping the holes so they were a hair bent outward so when I tightened them down it had more of a chance to grab the gasket further away from the holes first.

in my experience when going back with a new gasket on any cover or pan, I have always put a light coat of RTV on the metal surface and both sides of the gasket. lay the gasket flat on the metal surface of the cover or pan, line it up with the bolt holes and let is sit for about an hour till it's fairly secured and tacky. then install. sometimes I don't use RTV on the side if the gasket that's on the engine, I would use the old permatex #2 that never hardens or really dries up. but only a very thin layer. any of that gasket goop will cause the gasket to slip or ooze out of place causing a leak if your not careful.

I have seen some use the yellow gorilla snot on everything... (3M weatherstrip adhesive) good luck getting that cover off without destroying it. that stuff makes for a bad day for any person.
Click to expand...
Yep. Just like the Right Stuff.

I never had a leak. But you'll want to be prepared to replace the valve covers if you ever have to pull them off again
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top