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Vacuum pump removal
- Thread starter Rodd
- Start date
guybb3
Member
Am I using the wrong terminology? I thought blind meant that it wasn't a through hole. In other words the threaded hole had a bottom and didn't simply go through to open air in the block.
matuva
Tropical 6.5er
so they are blinds 
Pulley Remover
Hello Folks,
I've re-read the thread's replies twice now but I may have still missed something, or an assumption was implied somewhere and I didn't get it...
But... to remove the vacuum pump in our 98 Tahoe, I had to use a pulley remover/installer in order to access the bolts...
Regards,
Franko
Hello Folks,
I've re-read the thread's replies twice now but I may have still missed something, or an assumption was implied somewhere and I didn't get it...
But... to remove the vacuum pump in our 98 Tahoe, I had to use a pulley remover/installer in order to access the bolts...
Regards,
Franko
packratt
Active Member
There should have been a hole in the pulley you could insert a socket on an extension to reach the bolt head. Rotate pulley to align hole with bolts.
DOHHH! Two or three holes in fact... Now I remember using the pulley remover/installer on the vacuum pump, already off the engine, on top of a 55-gal drum. Thanks for bringing back the memories!
Regards,
Franko
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Heya Franko! Good to see ya here! Howz those legendary fans running? keepin ya cool with no regret?
Detroit Dan
New Member
So, are we just removing the pulley, not the whole vacuum pump?
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
no, three bolts through the bulley are a means to remove the entire pump
Dan Hunter
Truck Terrorist
Mine 94 had two bolts accessible from the front and one bolt accessible from the back turning a short job into a standard struggle. I ended up eliminating the mounting bracket as well. It held nothing else and improved passenger side access.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
The only thing better than reliminating unecessary parts is losing brackets too!
After my removal, I also ditched the mounting bracket that holds the solonoids and the EGR stuff....... Anyone wants let me know.
Rhinopkc
Bull in a China Shop
I have 99.5, and after a week it's already almost at the too loose mark.
buddy
Active Member
I put the bracket back on since others said it provides support to the air conditioner compressor, which it certainly could from what I can see. This is different in 96+ engines.
Getting it off was no easy task, but not too bad, just patience and the right wrenches and socket accessories. I really want some of those swivel head wratcheting wrenches, would make a lot of jobs so much easier.
Detroit Dan
New Member
Took mine off today, piece of cake thanks to the info here, wouldn't have figured it out myself. With the belt off moved the pulley around until the hole lined up with each bolt, could see them with a flashlight. Close call with the fanblades so close, but I managed to not scrape off any skin. I was going to get a 99.5 and a 100, but Advance Auto only had a 100. It fit well IMO, was a tight enough fit that I don't think I would have wanted to try to force a 99.5 on there. Was only about a 5-10 minute job. Couple minutes trying to figure out if the pump would actually come out of there without removing stuff. Eventually got it out by pushing cooling hoses and lines aside and rotating the pump every which way while pulling up gently.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Make a mark with a sharpie or take a picture of where the arrow is on the tensioner. Then check it again daily or weekly. Let us know how far it loosens.
BTW, is this normal for all belt replacements? I never paid attention in the years past. Or is it possible that the positioning of the V-pump to the tensioner causes extra tension to be put on the belt once removed? I don't see how, but it sure does stretch out almost out of adjustment on everyones rig.
I removed my vacuum pump today and it took a 101 & 5/8 inch belt. I started with a 99 & 1/2 and it wasn't even close, next I tried a 100 & 5/8 and it was close but wouldn't go on. The next stop was the 101 & 5/8.
As for pump removal I had to take the bracket off to get to the 10MM bolts from the back side.
As for pump removal I had to take the bracket off to get to the 10MM bolts from the back side.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Odd. Do you have dual alternators or something odd?
buddy
Active Member
The 94s and 95s with alt on drivers side require a little longer. And if you have upgraded to HO water pump a little more, and if a larger alternator that sets further over then the belt would need to be longer.
Turbine Doc
Just Another Diesel Guy
Belts now also seem to stretch more than they used to in days gone past, when I did 1" shorter 100" from 101" belt was midrange of the tensioner, a week later it was loose & squealing so bad I thought I had lost an alternator bearing indication of tensioner wear window at max wear position.
Now using 99.5" with the the tensioner barred fully over full travel, there is just enough slack in tensioner to tight slip onto the accessory & drive pulleys (better with (2) folks replacing the belt), but now the same week of use now puts the belt in midrange of the tensioner wear scale, and this has been with several different mfrs of belt I've tried.
Now using 99.5" with the the tensioner barred fully over full travel, there is just enough slack in tensioner to tight slip onto the accessory & drive pulleys (better with (2) folks replacing the belt), but now the same week of use now puts the belt in midrange of the tensioner wear scale, and this has been with several different mfrs of belt I've tried.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
My 99.5 belt is all the way loose, out of adjustment according to tensioner. Hasn't squeeled yet, but is going to make me get a new one to carry as a backup, which I should be doing anyhow. Still snugs up ok, but makes me want to try a 99 its that loose according to the tensioner.