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Used Engine

As I was turning the flywheel to turn the crank looking for cracks, I noticed a noise. I think it was coming from the timing chain. It is lose. Listen and tell me if it is normal or not.

 
I assume you don't have an IP on the engine at this point and you are hearing the IP to CAM gear slap around. Even if you do it's unusual to rock an engine back and forth and not expect noise.

The ROD CAPS have numbers stamped into them: unless you did this the engine has been apart before. So what? You will need to triple check the cylinders are not 20 over before ordering rings.

The spot on the crank is interesting. See if it smacked something in it's 360 rotation. Maybe it was dropped while the engine was apart. It appeared to be running so that's your call on if it matters. Bearing wear being unusual may indicate if the crank is bent.

if you spin the engine over 360 degrees in one direction does it sound ok?
 
WarWagon said:
I assume you don't have an IP on the engine at this point and you are hearing the IP to CAM gear slap around. Even if you do it's unusual to rock an engine back and forth and not expect noise.

The ROD CAPS have numbers stamped into them: unless you did this the engine has been apart before. So what? You will need to triple check the cylinders are not 20 over before ordering rings.

The spot on the crank is interesting. See if it smacked something in it's 360 rotation. Maybe it was dropped while the engine was apart. It appeared to be running so that's your call on if it matters. Bearing wear being unusual may indicate if the crank is bent.

if you spin the engine over 360 degrees in one direction does it sound ok?
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It only makes the noise when I turn it with the fly wheel rocking it back and forth.

So you don't think the chip is an issue?
 
I can't say if it is or is not from the video. WAG: I see a stamp mark by it so I would guess it was addressed somehow. Was it ground off say to balance the crank? Factory defect?

I do suggest you check with a local machine shop for a second opinion.
 
WarWagon said:
I can't say if it is or is not from the video. WAG: I see a stamp mark by it so I would guess it was addressed somehow. Was it ground off say to balance the crank? Factory defect?

I do suggest you check with a local machine shop for a second opinion.
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I haven't found any metal pieces in there so I'm wondering if it was dropped before installaton?
 
I had a friend of mine come over and take a look at the crank and he pointed out 2 big holes drilled out on the crank, one about 2 inches back from the chip out and the other on the other end of the same piece. He thinks it was probably done when it was originally built. They dropped it, chipped it and then rebalanced it.

Now that that part is done, I have had a few people give me some advice. Tell me what you think. Since I have 2 trucks with 6.5's they think I should just use this used engine as is with as minimal $$$ put into it as possible since it was a running engine before they pulled it out of the donor and since it was a fleet maintained vehicle. They said I should get another block and rebuild it completely the way I want and bullet proof it as much as possible and slowly build it the way I want it. Then I could use the new block and put it in which ever truck dies first or just put it in whichever truck and use the take out as a fresh rebuild. What are your guy's thoughts?
 
That Round Tuit. It's a pretty rare coin. I have had the same said of Patch - build an engine for it. Ain't happened in the past 8 years.

rt.jpg

Minimal work to the engine: yes, but, do the rings with a deglaze. If you drop the engine in and it has on fire blowby, where you can air up the tires from the dipstick tube, you will regret not doing rings. The rings are about the only wear item and it's not so much wear as it is overheating and loss of tension. Paid by the hour fleet operators don't give a s#it about going over 210 ECT if it stands between them and beer-o-clock. Sure it may have gotten an oil change now and then. Of the used engines I dropped in not doing rings was my biggest regret esp. with the results I got later from gapless rings. The two used surplus military 6.2's had blowby and oil leaks from blowby and just got worse. The military maintains better than fleet, but, only the military can abuse them worse. After all they are just over your son's age...

The other thing about taking the heads off is checking the head gaskets and new rocker buttons.

GM crack prone cast iron isn't worth doing any machine work to. So I 100% agree to the minimum other than stated above.
 
Got it. Thanks guy's. So gapless rings, new head gaskets, and rocker buttons. Can the buttons be purchased separately or do they only come with new rockers?
 
Are rocker arm buttons the same as retainers. I was just looking at rockauto and they have little plastic buttons they call retainers.
 
I was looking at rock auto for a gasket kit. The Felpro comes standard or .010 thicker. Does it matter which one I get. I'm thinking the thicker one is for machined decks. I was also thinking if I used the thicker one doesn't that raise the compression?
 
Rodd said:
I don't think I asked this but are the head bolts single use?
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Yes.

Intended one use only as they are torque to yield. Re-use and they are likely to snap and let the HG go.

Thicker head gasket lowers compression on standard blocks and is really intended for decked blocks.
 
Stock not alot, if your looking to boost performance, as in more boost/fuel, gives you a little more room to try and keep cylinder pressures down. The 6.5 is a relatively high compression engine 20 - 21 to1 depending on the year. most other diesels are running in the 16-18 to 1 range
 
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