Upper Control Arm Removal

[Big T]

Been awhile since I've pulled upper control arms. Can I do this without having to undo the lower control arm ball join and removing the CV axle? Just trying to minimize what I've got to remove.

 

[snarl95]

Yes. I took out the two bolts, popped out the ball joint from the knuckle and removed the whole arm. You'll need an alignment afterwards.

 

[Big T]

Yes. I took out the two bolts, popped out the ball joint from the knuckle and removed the whole arm. You'll need an alignment afterwards.

Thanks!

I couldn't get it aligned because the bushings were worn, so alignment is why I'm doing this job.

 

[Grisley1958]

I just did them on my K1500 which are similar. The only thing I wished I had done on the first one was to mark on the mounting towers the angle of the flat portion of the bolt rather than just looking at the washer position. If the arms are made the same it would get you close to where it was before the bushings went. On the 1500 you need to remove the upper shock bolt to get the mounting bolts out. Maybe not on the 2500.

 

[Big T]

I just did them on my K1500 which are similar. The only thing I wished I had done on the first one was to mark on the mounting towers the angle of the flat portion of the bolt rather than just looking at the washer position. If the arms are made the same it would get you close to where it was before the bushings went. On the 1500 you need to remove the upper shock bolt to get the mounting bolts out. Maybe not on the 2500.

I want to do this, but how do you see the flat portion of the bolt? I was going to scribe a line from the washer to the frame. Of course I'm using new bolts and washers as the bolts seem to be what is worn.

 

[Grisley1958]

I want to do this, but how do you see the flat portion of the bolt? I was going to scribe a line from the washer to the frame. Of course I'm using new bolts and washers as the bolts seem to be what is worn.

On the nut side of the bolt, the flat should be visible. I scribed a line at that same angle.

 

[Big T]

On the nut side of the bolt, the flat should be visible. I scribed a line at that same angle.

Thank you! I am doing this job this week.

 

[Grisley1958]

It took me less than 2 hours to do mine, even with the Western New York Rust to contend with. My bushings didn't look too bad but my upper ball joints were toast.

 

[Big T]

It took me less than 2 hours to do mine, even with the Western New York Rust to contend with. My bushings didn't look too bad but my upper ball joints were toast.

I don't have a press to install the bushings, so I have to take them to someone who does.

Also, I need to ream the steering knuckles for the ES 409RT Tie Rods. Hope to be able to do that with the steering knuckles in place.

 

[Grisley1958]

When I priced mine for the brake conversion it was $80 more for the new arms compare to buying the bushings and ball joints and replacing them. I bought a 7 degree taper to do my tie rods but the taper was too steep. Bought a 10 degree and the fit seems perfect.

 

[Big T]

When I priced mine for the brake conversion it was $80 more for the new arms compare to buying the bushings and ball joints and replacing them. I bought a 7 degree taper to do my tie rods but the taper was too steep. Bought a 10 degree and the fit seems perfect.

I have both a 7 and 10 degree ream from doing the GMT 800 conversion. Which on is right for the ES 409RT tie rod?

I already had a set of Moog bushings for the upper control arms and they are drilled for the Moog Problem solver ball joints. I don't think the ball joints are worn.

 

[Grisley1958]

I have both a 7 and 10 degree ream from doing the GMT 800 conversion. Which on is right for the ES 409RT tie rod?

I already had a set of Moog bushings for the upper control arms and they are drilled for the Moog Problem solver ball joints. I don't think the ball joints are worn.

Where did you use the 7 degree? I used the 10 degree on the ball joints and the tie rods but maybe the ES 409RT takes a 10 degree?
Even on the original taper in the GMT800 knuckles the 7 degree taper was tight at the bottom but really loose at the top. I just went by fit and feel. I don't have a taper gauge.

 

[Grisley1958]

The truck I'm doing the conversion on has 295,000 miles and still had all the original ball joints riveted in. Someone must have greased it religiously before I got it.

 

[Big T]

Where did you use the 7 degree? I used the 10 degree on the ball joints and the tie rods but maybe the ES 409RT takes a 10 degree?
Even on the original taper in the GMT800 knuckles the 7 degree taper was tight at the bottom but really loose at the top. I just went by fit and feel. I don't have a taper gauge.

I went based on old threads here, but can’t remember. Thought it was 10 for ball joints and 7 for the tie rods.

 

[Grisley1958]

I went based on old threads here, but can’t remember. Thought it was 10 for ball joints and 7 for the tie rods.

Me too but the 7 didn't seem right to me. The 10 degree I bought cut so easily if I wasn't careful could have gone too far

 

[Big T]

Upper bushings were gone. Upper ball joints questionable. I ordered new upper and lower ball joints, while local mechanic is pressing in the bushings.

 

[MrMarty51]

Whoaaah, thats a bad bad bad setta bushingks.

 

[Big T]

Whoaaah, thats a bad bad bad setta bushingks.

Well, I could feel it around 70 mph. Everything is being replaced.

 

[Husker6.5]

Catch a sale and spend the $100 at Harbor Freight for the 12 Ton shop press. Pays for itself about the second time you use it in just time running back and forth to a friend/neighbor/shop to use their's. I've uses mine for doing the uppers and lowers on the ex's Trailblazer, a front wheel bearing on the daughter's Camry, both front wheel bearings on the younger son's Contour his grandmother passed down to him for a go to work vehicle, worked perfectly to straighten back out the bent jaw on my 15" Channel Lock when I tried to use it as a crankshaft lock when trying to break loose the crank pulley bolt doing a timing belt on the daughter's Camry. Makes doing control arm bushings so simple, even a caveman can do it!

 

[Big T]

Catch a sale and spend the $100 at Harbor Freight for the 12 Ton shop press. Pays for itself about the second time you use it in just time running back and forth to a friend/neighbor/shop to use their's. I've uses mine for doing the uppers and lowers on the ex's Trailblazer, a front wheel bearing on the daughter's Camry, both front wheel bearings on the younger son's Contour his grandmother passed down to him for a go to work vehicle, worked perfectly to straighten back out the bent jaw on my 15" Channel Lock when I tried to use it as a crankshaft lock when trying to break loose the crank pulley bolt doing a timing belt on the daughter's Camry. Makes doing control arm bushings so simple, even a caveman can do it!

You know I want, but I have limited space in garage(s). It is on the plans to build a second garage for Montana because wife and I want a UTV and indoor storage for all cars. Second garage also in the plans for Fullerton, though I may veto as I don't know how long we will keep that home.