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Update ! on the 6.5er. . .

The reason its called a depression regulator is that its stops it from being too much depression. The vacuum from the intake would be way too depressing if the CDR didnt close from the vacuum. So its intent is to prevent depression, but alls it does is cause all this drama :)

Why would a lower than ambient level be needed? the point is to prevent pressure from building up in the crankcase and by venting it this is achieved.
 
Ratman said:
Fire away.......
Click to expand...
Not me, Rich... brand-new engine, and it's your call, Rich. You certainly know enough to do your own thing.

But I know what a difference cleaning my CDR (warm soapy water and air dry a la Bill Heath) made to my old engine... when a seal leak fixes itself just 'cause i cleaned the CDR like I was told to, I'm a convert. Like the Doc says, we've both seen too many cases where it didn't work out for the best.

There are all kinds of situations where an unconventional idea works; but the majority of the time, the conventional wisdom turns out best. Maybe that's how it gets to be conventional :D
 
With a freely flowing vent, you'd think it couldn't build up positive crankcase pressure. Certainly a lot of engines from the past ran simple vent tubes; the early turbocharged tractor diesels had a vent tube w/ no filtration beyond a screen or mesh at the crankcase source.

On high boost gassers, we'd notice the vac - vs - vent difference in situations where the original vac passage was simply capped with one (or two on V-8's) of the little K&N's you see on valve covers.

After reading the progression of this thead, it could be that those little K&N's became restrictive as they picked up oil film & allowed some positive crankcase pressure to build up.
 
buddy said:
The reason its called a depression regulator is that its stops it from being too much depression. The vacuum from the intake would be way too depressing if the CDR didnt close from the vacuum. So its intent is to prevent depression, but alls it does is cause all this drama :)
Click to expand...
ROFL

Buddy said:
Why would a lower than ambient level be needed? the point is to prevent pressure from building up in the crankcase and by venting it this is achieved.
Click to expand...

A guy over on the old site made some gizmo with glass beads in it to let the vapours coalesce and drip back into the crankcase. Worked fine until he started leaking oil elsewhere.

Another guy vented his with a hose down the side, to let it just drip out. Same issue.

Turbine Doc and I have seen so many people try to avoid fixing the CDR to no avail, that we just don't try anymore.

Here's the issue: on high-mileage engines like mine, a well-functioning CDR does what it is supposed to do and things are fine. Other apparatus don't seem to fare so well, but people keep trying.

I get what you're saying, Buddy, and the logic seems to make sense... but it just happens to not work so well in the real world. On newer engines, like Ratman's, it's probably fine. On stuff like mine with lots of blow-by, not so much.
 
whoa whoa whoa your getting carried away here guy's. . .

I have had the SAE60 in this truck over 3,000 miles 3,478 miles to be exact it only started consuming mass volumes of oil in the last 1200 or so miles, I also in that 3500 mile run changed my oil filter 3 times.

The engine was dry No oil leaks in any other location other then the airbox n air filter being flooded full with oil. turbo was also dry if it was the turbo leaking the oil into my air filter it would have soaked the New cone filter in the 250 some miles its been on there tonight while changing my oil i removed the cone air filter it was 100% dry and so was the turbine.

when i removed the CDR a good cup of oil ran out of it and every thing past past where it exited the valve cover and entered the air filteration system was OIL SOAKED in no other spot was the motor wet at all. . .

Now if what your saying is true and the vent i used will pug up and cause to much pressure to build up there a whooping $9.99 i can change it every other oil change or even every oil if i had too. . .

truck now is full of clean fresh oil with no additives we'll just have to wait and see correct ?

EDIT:
If my vent system don't and i need the CDR which i was in need of replacement anyhow what am i out ? a broken air box ?

I have all the OEM parts i removed and i have the old K&N filter cleaned and recharged, only thing i would need is the air box as it broke while it was removing it. . .

Mike
 
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I know what jifaire and TD are saying.

In 99.9% of the cases, a functioning CDR is favored over an atmospherically-vented setup.

Admittedly, if not done properly, a atmospheric-vented setup can (and will get) messy over time.

The CDR and associated plumbing takes care of the mess, it takes care of the emissions requirements for the given production year, and it also provides a small amount of negative pressure to the crankcase to deal with blowby, -and the consequence of blowby and what effect it has on crank seals, -etc.

So, for an engine that has seen a few miles, -like Jifaire stated (and basically TD too), it is USUALLY best to keep it functioning, and keep it as a part of the system.

I myself have been pondering where to route the vapor hose off my CDR. I'd like to fab up a venturi in the exhaust, -like JD did (GMCTD).

Evacuation, crankcase vacuum, etc, could all still be intact, -without the cost of an oil-soaked intake stc.

Soooo, -unless you are like me and feel like being a guinnea-pig and trying new things, -do it the factory way. 90% of the time, the factory way is the best way.
 
The 6.2/6.5 engine was designed to run with a slight negative pressure in the crankcase.
This was done to keep oil leaks from occuring.
It also takes the load off seals like the front crank seal and the rear main seal.

Under normal opperation with things working right, this sytem is supposed to keep the crankcase at about 1-2 inches of water column (Vacuum under engine load)

MGW
 
If your turbo is leaking oil you would see oil post turbo to the Upper intake, not the air box breather. Take the hose off from turbo to upper and revv the engine with a piece of cardboard a few inches infront of the turbo outlet and see if you have alot of oil(I think you do this with CDR disconnected IIRC). Also if you are burning that much oil and the motor is high mil putting chips, TM etc is just like sticking steriods in a 90 yr old man. You'll just kill it. You may be best served by a compression test first.
 
Think he just got tired of answering the same old questions time and time again over the years. He usually checks in time to time. Hope everything is alright. I actually asked about him a few days ago in one of my threads...
 
I don't much care what its pumping out my Bloody turbo, as long as its no longer pumping it into my air filter then i have fixed the my problem.

The oil consumption has reduced or stopped all together so far so that issue is also fixed.

As for putting a 90 year old on steriods LOL n killing it faster Oh well. . .healthy or sick i am still going to do what i do.

Its not like i am going to rebuild it, So if it splits the crank case wide open. . .oh well. . .I get a new Rig simply put !

This thread wasn't intended for 3 pages of trouble shooting it was just an update stating that i had Fixed the issue from the "OLD 6.5 STRIKES AGAIN" thread and a couple of the mods i did at the same time as well, along with a list a Mods to come.
I am going to do what i have to get it to do what i need it to do if that shorten's its life span or kills it off all together then thats the way the Cookie crumbles i guess. . .

As for the New air filter n New breather they are what they are . . .

Mike
 
M123KT-450 said:
I don't much care what its pumping out my Bloody turbo, as long as its no longer pumping it into my air filter then i have fixed the my problem.

The oil consumption has reduced or stopped all together so far so that issue is also fixed.

As for putting a 90 year old on steriods LOL n killing it faster Oh well. . .healthy or sick i am still going to do what i do.

Its not like i am going to rebuild it, So if it splits the crank case wide open. . .oh well. . .I get a new Rig simply put !

This thread wasn't intended for 3 pages of trouble shooting it was just an update stating that i had Fixed the issue from the "OLD 6.5 STRIKES AGAIN" thread and a couple of the mods i did at the same time as well, along with a list a Mods to come.
I am going to do what i have to get it to do what i need it to do if that shorten's its life span or kills it off all together then thats the way the Cookie crumbles i guess. . .

As for the New air filter n New breather they are what they are . . .

Mike
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Attaboy Mikey... Enjoy your truck the way you want to. Hell, whatever its running fate will be, its running, and not sent to the crusher!

simple engine health test is to remove oil fill cap when warmed up and running and see how much 'blow by' smoke comes out...

I can't even see a puff outta mine, so that always makes me confident.
 
Yea thats my thinking its running now not sitting parked on the car trailer in front of the house. . .

As for running it hot with no oil cap i have a few times, No somke ever came out of it ! i have felt any air blowing out from it either so i can only assume the Motors just fine .

Mike
 
LP ? this you'll have to explain ?
i have heard of it being done but never got any info on it. . .

I have been thinking about a full set of guages once i start doing the Major mods cause once the Big mods start getting done i am sure i'll be running it a good bit harder then now.

Currently it just cruise back n forth to the shop n back for the most part, But when i do load it I LOAD IT ! ! ! this is why i wanted to change the gear ratio so i can run the 19.5's, as i am pushing them 16's to there max payload and i would rather only be using 50-75% of the tires Rating not all of it and then some. . .

Mike
 
propane is possible but not worth the hassle. I am putting it on mine, hopefully in next 2 months, but I think Aces was being facetious. It wont be able to provide the huge gains it does in other vehicles and can kill a IDI 6.5 pretty easily.
 
buddy said:
propane is possible but not worth the hassle. I am putting it on mine, hopefully in next 2 months, but I think Aces was being facetious. It wont be able to provide the huge gains it does in other vehicles and can kill a IDI 6.5 pretty easily.
Click to expand...

Will kill only if done incorrectly, Ian formerly of Heath Co. ran it on his when he hit 303 Hp on the dyno last year, I will probably be doing that at some point if some other things I'm playing with for more power don't pan out.
 
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