• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Turning up timing, dirty fuel, egt's.

sctrailrider said:
I have not tested it, I was stating the fact that a new pump wasn't putting out the cc's claimed AND the fact the hard starts & other problems point to a not so good rebuild or parts used is all, nothing more...

I have had Unique Diesel build me a couple pumps, one rebuild with new head & rotor, another brand new unit, both came with specs... and they were nowhere near as cheap as other rebuilders that don't use new parts...
Click to expand...

Okay I get you but if you buy a pump like that, and their not exactly cheap, and you have those issue's, then I'd say that's major.
 
deejaaa said:
that's not how you time the IP.
Click to expand...

Start with this. Timing is important.

I know you had the other thread where yu mentioned low pop pressures, but cant remember what else was going on. You need to inow you have it timed properly & call them up to talk about pressures before condemning pump.

I don't remember what pressures fords pop at. If they built this one as to match way low pop pressures, that would cause all these problem.

Factory turbo injector pop pressure is 2100 psi. Call them and go over details.
 
Oh, recently learned its purpose myself. It is the pressure at which the fuel injector opens and fuel comes out. It effects how well the fuel is atomized and thus it's ability to be burned quickly, thus more power.
 
Yes, pop pressure being higher creates better atomization. But too low or too high pressure limits volume of fuel. For instance stock n/a pop pressure is 1600 psi. Stock turbo is 2100psi. However same volume of fuel comes out at 1600 and 3000psi. (Roughly). I learned in rebuilding psycho amounts of injectors the peak of volume and fuel is roughly 2350- thats why I always reference that pressure, and what I prefer to run.

Also know that pop pressure of injector will slightly vary injection timing. Iirc about 2degrees from peak to peak.
2 degrees will leave a bit on the table, but with a db pump is not the differnce that is described in this thread. 10 degrees is not enough to cause what I am understanding is occurring here.

Sounds to me like you are not getting enough fuel all together. How they built the pump to run at that low is WAYYY CONFUSING. Wtf is ford pop pressure? Maybe thats why, they build tons for fords. But I would bet $50 Ive read stock db pump produces in the 5,500 psi range. So how and why did they modify it to drop out??
I have ran same db2 on 1600 injectors, then swapped them directly for 3200 injectors. Barely having to alter timing between them, using optic timing tool that goes in glowplug hole to see the fire.
Which, btw using just the shock sensor without the crank pickup style was within 0.25 of timing event. The quality of fuel you get that week has same difference in flashing off, so innmy eyes 100% as good.

Dont get the db confused with the delicate control of a ds4 that will work it azz off trying to componsate and cause issues. Db can be off 2-3x as far and get same results.

I would expect them to demand proper timing verified before shipping back their pump, thats only fair. But I don't see other routes at this point.
 
my thought: time it correctly. you don't need timing marks or pointers to do it properly. you're just guessing if it's not timed.
 
Depress advance lever(engine warm, no cold advance circuit) a slight fish bite (JUST begin to detect an occasional interruption to smoothness), means timing is about perfect. if rpm's just slow, too far advanced. If it stumbles, dies, fish bites really bad, engine shakes, too retarded.
 
Hello,
Running the interstate, temps are up above 230 uphill, foot to the floor, and 15psi boost.
This is up for om 10psi boost and unburnt fuel in the exhaust. Did I go to far advanced?
 
Never push a 6.5 to 230 unless you plan on replacing the engine that week.

Need to get a timing check On there to verify. Even just the ping style without the optic eye will get you within 1-2 degrees.

Trying to analyze timing by temperature and smoke is no good.
 
X2

Even I back out of it when the dash gauge is pointing at 210. The passenger side is hotter due to coolant flow issues from GM's inability to properly reverse the water pump rotation (even the 350's 1995 gassers had problems with this.). Over 210 things start to crack and the rings can be tied into a knot: aka rings loose tension. Rings overheated alone cause more blowby to show up even on the IDI Fords. ECT is the one critical limit on 6.5 IDI engines to not ignore. Post #8 (scuffed, cracked, and burned through piston) is ECT being ignored http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/6-5-carnage.39865/

What are you running for cooling system mods? All can apply: HO water pump, 185 T-Stat, low temp fan clutch that's less than 5 years old, and 9 blade steel or Duramax fan with a clean cooling stack. Water Wetter also helps in the larger diesel 2 bottle quantity. The mat of trash that builds up behind the oil cooler is a serious problem. If you have done all the cooling mods it's time to ask what turbo you got as a small GMx turbo keeps heat in the engine.

Possible you reached the upper fueling point with a Moose Pump that overwhelms the cooling system.
 
Last edited:
My engine didn’t have any blow by at all until it ran hot. I was at 230 when I realized the problem and shut it down and coasted off the road. I now have enough blow by that I had to run my cdr to the atmosphere because of all the oil that was in the upper plenum. I was scared of a runaway situation so I run a hose down in beside the front tire
 
WarWagon said:
When the timing is set engine hot:

Roll on 45 MPH and hold steady. Should have some diesel rattle. Add throttle. The Rattle should go away as the precups heat up. Advance lowers EGT and less drive pressure for the turbo. Too much advance will erode glow plugs. Too little advance will white smoke cold.
Click to expand...

Again you can time the engine by ear and this '45 MPH roll in the throttle and rattle goes away when the precups heat up' is from Heath Diesel. Pull a glow plug and look for (erosion) a rust like texture on it: if so that's too much advance.

What does your EGT's look like? With a lot of fuel they really should be on the high side: as in over 1100 degrees.

What turbo you got? Really fill in your signature... ;)

IMO if the timing is close you are simply throwing more fuel at it the the shi#y GM cooling system can handle. (*Cough* take your foot out of it while manually downshifted to keep RPM high.) It is, however, worth a look at the radiator itself for internal plugging corrosion etc. I assume the fan's screaming when it's getting around 210+?
 
I pushed the crap out of these engines until parts flew through the block and never had the amount of fuel "cause" overheating. Maybe if you run it at 75% and it does fine, then running 100% it starts to get hot, maybe you are just lacking on radiator capacity.
But if you run it just normal speeds down the road and it is getting hot- something is off.

Yes erosion on the GP can be too advanced, but so can non regulated plugs being cycled too long. Problem is it takes a descent amount of miles to determine it. What rpm is the "45 mph" in the example? different gearing/ tires size alters that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top