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Turbo has Gone out need suggestions

M

My6.5

New Member
Messages
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12
Location
california
Hello,
Looking for some suggestions. My 1996 Gm8 Turbo has finally went out. Looking to replace it or even upgrade it. Truck is basically an everyday driver. Engine was rebuilt about 3 years ago and its pretty healthy and is all stock. It has a diamond eye exhaust and I stuck a k47 intake on it. I dont tow with it, just throw stuff in the bed and what not. I would like to tow a car once in a blue moon if i have to however. I perfectly happy with the power, even though the 6.5 is under rated. What i would like to know is how is involved is upgrading to a hx40 turbo. Or should i just stick with getting another gm8

Truck has egr and is controlled by pcm. From reading other posts i feel thats the big draw back.
 
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Epa regs and if you need smog check- might come into play.
Going to hx40, or a 35/40 hybrid which will spool better and should have cleaner acceleration,
Controlling waste gate is part of your fight. Places that don’t check the vacuum lines, people just remove it. But you might not have that option.
Yes the 35/40 turbo will help on all uses and should increase mpg unless you decide to pour on the fuel and play hot rod.

There are 3 vendors here that offer turbo upgrades- call and see what packages they have and how much diy you feel comfortable with.
Saving your old parts just incase the rule book comes after you and you have to revert to original. It shouldn’t be an issue because your net pollution will be less- but rules don’t always make sense.
 
Is it something in the vacuum system that 💩 the bed or is it actually the turbo ?
I have read that the waste gate can be wired shut for an easy careful run while watching the boost gauge.
That way if it is the turbo then it would build no boost.
 
In california 1996 and older diesels do not require smog. When i got back from a long drive i noticed a bit of a power loss. When i got home i noticed a loud tinking noise coming from the turbo. I also got 2 codes out of the blue p0238 and p0406. Hooked up scanner and got results. Turbo is tinking loud though.
Also i cant hear the spool up anymore. I can hear the the faint whistle on my turbo. Its now replaced with the tinking sound.
 
I think all and all i just want to know how involved it would be to upgrade to the hx35 or 40. I read that a lot of people say its easy but they dont have the egr inakes.
I would not have a problem getting the kit to adapt it to exhaust. Im just wondering if all can be done with same egr intake and pcm.
 
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My6.5 said:
Turbo is tinking loud though
Click to expand...

You sure it's the turbo and not something else like a busted vacuum pump below the turbo on the front of the engine? Remove fan belt and spin each pulley by hand. You don't want to know how many water pumps and AC compressors I have had "make funny noise". Ask me about the alternator that was smoking like it was on fire from a bearing failure...

Next I would pull the intake tube and look in the front of the turbo - is it showing signs of the compressor wheel hitting the housing? Nut still in place? Turning it by hand engine off of course how does it feel and sound?

Wouldn't be the first time a valve rocker came off or a valve spring broke...
 
Stock turbos do make that "tinking" sound in the exhaust housing. There's different NVH (noise vibration harshness) features built into it that cause that sound but reduce other bad sounds like vibrations and resonance thru the intake system. is worth mentioning in case you want to try and fix it up as-is even if it's only temporary. The vacuum pumps are a maintenance item also that's worth checking as mentioned above. You always have options though if you do want to upgrade.
 
The vaccum pump may be the problem after reading up top. the tinking sound might be coming from that. Hopefully thats the case. I really want to get rid of the pump and do the whole turbo master and gauges. I just dont know whats all involved with my set up if i want to do something different. Might cheaper to just get another pump.
 
GM original vacuum pump is just under $160.00 from Rock Auto. Dont forget to go to the sponsors listing at the bottom of the forum front page and look up the discount code. 5% which mostly covers freight.
There is several other vacuum pumps, Delphi and cordone which are cheaper but I’m sorta stuck on original equipment.
 
Oh yeah, I could not find the vacuum pump in the vehicle listing, went to the search bar and typed in vacuum pump, it showed a menu of two, one was diesel engine vacuum pump, click on that one. I believe Your pump might be the same as the one on my truck, mounts on with 3 bolts. Just have to select it from the pics. Besides, its the most expensivest one I thingk. 😹😹😹😹
 
The thing is Will L. is that i have read, and i have read over and over with people saying , switching over to a turbo master getting rid of vaccum pump and changing everything out. Problem is they they keep saying the same old thing. but problem is the newer ones are a bit different. Not about being cheap. Its just about the options. i can do cummins or ford :bigtears: all day. Just like my body style and want to keep it.

i will look into the vaccum pump. That might be the issue hopefully
 
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My6.5 said:
The thing is Will L. is that i have read, and i have read over and over with people saying , switching over to a turbo master getting rid of vaccum pump and changing everything out. Problem is they they keep saying the same old thing. but problem is the newer ones are a bit different. Not about being cheap. Its just about the options. i can do cummins or ford :bigtears: all day. Just like my body style and want to keep it.

i will look into the vaccum pump. That might be the issue hopefully
Click to expand...
Get a vacuum gauge and see if there is vacuum from the pump, then remove the fan belt and fire up the engine, just long enough to see if the noise is gone. Try rotating the vacuum pump pulley by hand and see if it is rough in its operation. Check the obvious before firing the parts cannon at it.
 
My6.5 said:
I really want to get rid of the pump and do the whole turbo master and gauges
Click to expand...

EGR needs the vac pump too so you will have to keep it. This is a big difference from the non-stop 3/4 and 1 ton stuff you read about that doesn't have EGR.

If you are keeping the GM turbo don't bother with a turbo master.

A video of the noise helps.
 
You could put F vin manifolds on and do away with the EGR. Then you could do away with the vacuum pump completely if you did a turbo master.
 
I have never ever seen anything ever about using an electric driven pump. That doesnt even sound like its worth putting in. Im gonna take a video, so i can have the sound of the truck.

I dont even put that on my other stuff. why would i do that with my truck. makes no sense
 
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My BIL had a VW Passat with the Audi V6 engine. Some of those weee turbo charged. To not create a lot of confusion between the turbod and non turboed units, they put an electronic vacuum pump on all of their vehicles of this model.
That pump had over 350,000 miles on it and was still performing very well.
So, with that said, I think it is possible to install an electronic vacuum pump on our trucks and they will perform just as well as they would with the mechanical operated pump with the fan belt or through the oil pump drive adaptor as in the older models. And then the fan belt driven pump can be eliminated. After all, it is a sort of a PIA to replace it. 😹😹😹
Vacuum is vacuum, no matter where it comes from, a vacuum pump can create only so many inches of vacuum at a specified elevation, regardless of how the vacuum is created. 🤷‍♂️
Please, correct Me if I am wrong.
 
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