• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Trip from Hell - stalling/bucking

JB weld isn't very strong, I would just put a flat washer on it. Good luck. Leo
 
I can make you just about anything at my machine shop. Call me if you need any help.

Thanks! Hopefully I wont need to. I used a small level to get the pump top dead center. If it is between -.75 and -1.93 I will just leave it. If not I may need you to build me something. Now I just need to find an "F" engine lower intake.
 
Well I have a new problem. I got everything buttoned up & torqued down to the proper tension. Filled the tank w/ new clean fuel and filled the filter canister w/ power service. I then cycled the glows and lp 3 times and she fired up on the first try. A little smoke not mutch. 15 seconds of rough running then it smoothed out for about 5 minutes. I was idling to get it up to temp to set the tdco and it started knocking loudly. Any thoughts?
 
More info. I let it sit for 5 minutes and restarted and it is running spooth again. Will let it run and see if it happens again. My father in law said it sounded like the knocking was coming from the passenger side.
 
Passenger side knocking is common from air in lines. You can not bleed the injectors with the turbo in the way. Good thing is it tends to work its self out. Knocking is also caused by injector lines touching valve covers, heater coolant line and any other metal parts.
Keep an eye on the fuel filter and lift pump. With all of that metal moving through the system there is more to be filtered out and the lift pump could fail, this will also protect your $1000.00 IP.
 
Thanks desert! that is what I thought. I know since it cleared up it wasn't rod related. The last time I did my ip it didn't knock. Probably because I only filled the tank then and the lp had to prime the whole system before it started. This time I cheated by putting ps in the filter housing to speed up the starting process. Thanks again for offering your services. I probably won't need them but if I run into anymore problems I'll give you a call.
 
Well done Rodd,

Holy hell you are resourceful. How many miles on your burb for you have to be your third IP?
 
Well done Rodd,

Holy hell you are resourceful. How many miles on your burb for you have to be your third IP?

I've got 177k. Unfortunately no one told me when I replaced it the 1st time that I should clean the tank and the filter and housing when replacing the IP. When I get home I am adding a filtering set up like Tim's. That way the system will stay clean. I also got a used pump the last time. This time I got a rebuilt one. So that combined w/ a clean fuel system should last a lot longer.

I can't believe how much metal chips I had in my tank and filter housing. If they were gold flakes I would probably have a couple ounces of them.
 
Man I can be an idiot sometimes. I got'r running this morning and was Idling for about 10 minutes trying to get'r up to 170 degrees and she died. I know why cuz I only had about 4.5 gallons of diesel to pour in an empty tank. I knew that so I sent my father in law to get me some more. Unfortunately it ran out before he got back. That isn't why I'm an idiot though. We had to do some family things so we just left it, WITH THE KEY IN THE ON POSITION. It drained the battery and it is now sitting on the charger.:mad2:
 
LOL, when it rains it pours, don't worry Rodd, you're in good company. Leo
 
I got it started and it died again. Almost like the lp isn't working and it won't start back up. It could be air in the line hasn't worked it self out yet. I'm hoping it's not the ops. For $20 I could have replaced it w/ the manifold off real easy. If it's that I got to pull the whole thing off again. Any easy way to replace the ops w/ the manifold still on?

Thanks!
 
You already know this, but it never hurts... jumper the LP to see if that's what is wrong before you go tearing the intake off.

When I'm cranky, I forget the obvious stuff.
 
You already know this, but it never hurts... jumper the LP to see if that's what is wrong before you go tearing the intake off.

When I'm cranky, I forget the obvious stuff.

I just ran to autozone and swapped out my old pump I just bought in July under warranty. I just told them it wasn't putting out enough pressure. I also had them charge the batteries, and picked up an ops for the trip home just in case. It started right up w/ the new pump and freshly charged batteries. It wanted to die on me a few times but I was holding the rpm's between 1 - 1.5. It just cut out slightly. It appears to be idling fine now. Hopefully it w/ get to 170 w/ no probs and tdco and time set w/ work as well. Keep your fingures crossed. We are supposed to leave in the morning.
 
Like JiFaire said. Often missed is the final story. Yours sure interests me.

I had one Christmas visit to the in laws not nearly severe as yours. My water pump started going out on the way to Elk City. The 84 chevy gasser started running hot suddenly so I pulled over at the nearest quickie mart and bought a few gallons of drinking water when I noticed the pump weeping. I'd pull over when it ran hot and add water. At one point, I noticed a trash can blowing across the highway and I stopped to pick it up. At the next gas station, I refilled the gallon containers and half filled the trash can and cut one of the gallon containers to scoop water out of the trash can. The rest of the 2 hr trip remaining was done in small intervals. I ended up changing out the water pump in my in law's driveway in a -25F windchill. You bleed a lot slower in the cold.
 
Back
Top