Rodd
Recruit
I just went to the local dealer here in my in laws town and luckily one of their techs has a 6.5. He pulled the diagram for the ops and lp for my burb and gave me a copy so I could do the work myself. Very nice. Anyway he said on the 99 w/ the ignition key on and the t valve open is how you tell if the lp is working. He said and the diagram shows that once the truck is started and semi warm the ops takes over. So if I open the t valve w/ the truck running if it flows the ops is good. He also said to check the bottom of the filter bowl. If there is any metal in there it could be from the IP. He said that the fuel in the tank gets hotter the farther you go due to the return. If the pump is going bad it could start failing the hotter the fuel gets. He said Bio stays thicker longer and may put a bandaid on the situation. He also said the gas cap failing could cause the same symptoms I am experiencing.
So here is where I am at...
1. Check ops
2. Check filter housing for metal
3. Drop tank and check for implosion and double check depth of fuel pick up.
4. new gas cap or drive w/ old on loose.
5. New IP if necesary
Unfortunately if the ops is good and I replace the gas cap then if it fails again I will be on a long trip. The tech said that if it is related to hot fuel causing the IP to start to buck I could try filling up every 200 miles to keep it cooler.
What are your guy's thoughts. I have left a message for Bill Heath so hopefully he calls me back.
So here is where I am at...
1. Check ops
2. Check filter housing for metal
3. Drop tank and check for implosion and double check depth of fuel pick up.
4. new gas cap or drive w/ old on loose.
5. New IP if necesary
Unfortunately if the ops is good and I replace the gas cap then if it fails again I will be on a long trip. The tech said that if it is related to hot fuel causing the IP to start to buck I could try filling up every 200 miles to keep it cooler.
What are your guy's thoughts. I have left a message for Bill Heath so hopefully he calls me back.