To 6.5 or not to 6.5?

[jrsavoie]

Exactly. The btu in 2stroke is low and has a very low flashpoint. When you add it to the fuel you are degrading the fuel. The reason to add it is it extends the life of ip & injectors enough to save "X" amount of $. As long as "X" is greater than the cost of buying it, and the reduction in mpg, you do it.

When it is not a noticeable savings, you don't. Which is why my suburban never got any of the maintanence, only what was required. Now I'm going to sell it for $2,000 less than a comparable maintained one. WAY MORE than $2,000 saved in the 13 years Ive owned it. Fuel mileage is a factor to consider, but if you put in $1,000 a year of goodies and goo to do it, you have to drive the miles to pay for it. Maybe fill in for WarWagon while he's on vacation or something to justify it.

What's a good way to up the BTU's in our fuel?

 

[FellowTraveler]

What's a good way to up the BTU's in our fuel?

The BTU rate of diesel compared with 2 stroke is not far apart I forget the figures but I'll post them when I dig them out of my collection of info.

I dare say hydrogen but a good dry cell HHO (browns gas) on demand system requires some steep $$$$ up front and there are consumables like distilled water etc. and longevity of the system leaves something to be desired not worth the investment because return is not there considering short life of components. The 6.5 td requires about 18 liters of HHO per-minute for good results but again the components of the system make it less desirable.

I had someone tell me differential lube dino type has crazy high sulfur levels it does however have some other compounds included and I'm not sure if those compounds hurt the fuel system. Caution is advised here, even though I've done it a few times w/decent results. Hell I've even run about 300 gals of 15 year old kerosene mixed with 2 stroke in the same IP I have now. The best fuel I've ever used was diesel stored underground sine WW2 my Burb never ran better than with that fuel.

 

[Will L.]

I would say don't play with it is the safe answer.

Or...
If you do play with it you need to be able to measure btu and flashpoint. You also need to test soluability between the fuels.

What to mix is any shorter molecular chain fuel i.e. Kerosene,gas,methanol, nitro methane, etc. the hotter the fuel, the better it will work and need less. But that makes it more pricey. The balance is if you are adding things like methanol, it lowers lubricity so now add more lube, then a touch more booster, and repeat.

Sounds like you could do a whole Saturday setting up and recording what to do. But your fuel supply will change even from the same supplier, so you are playing with fire. So doing monthly batches is the only way to make it work out.

If you do that, your FAR better off to throw old tires into a pyrosis, and make some wonderful high sulfur synthetic fuel. Think biofuel without the chemicals and bugs.

 

[NVW]

And if you are like me and don't understand the last paragraph. Forget it.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Will is right with the warnings!

There is an old military publication "Field Expedient Fuels" many of the mixes will not work w/DS4 for very long DB2/4 will be much better choice.

If I remember right Cummins use to allow 5 to 10% used motor oil in fuel w/o warranty issues. However many people use black diesel quite a bit.

Lowering cetane level = more mpg if I remember right..........

 

[jrsavoie]

Lowering cetane level = more mpg if I remember right..........

I have heard this before. I've never got a grip on what exactly cetane levels are, what is good. If I should use cetane booster

I used to have good luck mixing up 500 gallon batches and running through a 2 micron filter. We haven't been able to afford 500 gallon at once lately. And I am afraid that is going to cause me an issue someday. We plan to go back to filling the tank soon.

I get 11% bio premium diesel and I usually add 1 gallon of gas - usually old mixed gas from the previous year.

1 gallon ashless 2 stroke oil. 1 can of Sea Foam, Anti bug stuff, Diesel clean and some Power Service or Schaefer's additive. One can of Amsoil Cetane boost.

I used to add a gallon of Marvel. But it says not to use it for highway fuel anymore.

 

[Will L.]

Nvw, YouTube search plastic (or tires) to oil/fuel and you get the idea. I'm now no longer working with the plastic to fuel company, and don't remember signing a non disclosure or non compete form...just waiting for some tool reimbursement $. If it takes too long -I assume a loss.
I want to see this move foreword, even if at home use is the only way to have positive effect on environment and US economy.

Jrsavoie,
Quit using marvel oil now and forever with fuel! That lowers the lube dramatically! Good marketing from 100 years ago and "my dad used it so it must be good" is why it's still around fuel tanks. It's better to not use it at all. Lower lube and lower btu means no gains only losses, unless you make your salary marketing it.


The cetane : mpg thing depends on useage. More cetane is more acceleration capacity. So if you are constantly towing heavy loads in stop and start traffic, higher cetane is desired. If you are running a generator, boat, or cruise control on the Interstate then hi cetane (fast burning) fuel is not your friend. Higher cetane means faster burn and flame front causing more power quicker, instead of a steady burn.

The best example for this I heard is kindling vs a log.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Nvw, YouTube search plastic (or tires) to oil/fuel and you get the idea. I'm now no longer working with the plastic to fuel company, and don't remember signing a non disclosure or non compete form...just waiting for some tool reimbursement $. If it takes too long -I assume a loss.
I want to see this move foreword, even if at home use is the only way to have positive effect on environment and US economy.

Jrsavoie,
Quit using marvel oil now and forever with fuel! That lowers the lube dramatically! Good marketing from 100 years ago and "my dad used it so it must be good" is why it's still around fuel tanks. It's better to not use it at all. Lower lube and lower btu means no gains only losses, unless you make your salary marketing it.


The cetane : mpg thing depends on useage. More cetane is more acceleration capacity. So if you are constantly towing heavy loads in stop and start traffic, higher cetane is desired. If you are running a generator, boat, or cruise control on the Interstate then hi cetane (fast burning) fuel is not your friend. Higher cetane means faster burn and flame front causing more power quicker, instead of a steady burn.

The best example for this I heard is kindling vs a log.

Excellent!

 

[jrsavoie]

Plastic to fuel is something I would be interested in. Are there any EPA concerns?

 

[Aaron1505]

my 98 c3500 crew cab long bed 5 speed gets 20 mpg consistently but i drive 7 miles to work each way and the highest speed limit is 45 mph and a few stop lights. in my opinion 2wd and manual trans is the key to milage. i also have a new ip and I'm pretty sure its not putting out the same amount of fuel as the old one the truck had more power with the old pump but it was getting good milage with that pump too so i don't know.

 

[WarWagon]

I have heard this before. I've never got a grip on what exactly cetane levels are, what is good. If I should use cetane booster

I used to have good luck mixing up 500 gallon batches and running through a 2 micron filter. We haven't been able to afford 500 gallon at once lately. And I am afraid that is going to cause me an issue someday. We plan to go back to filling the tank soon.

I get 11% bio premium diesel and I usually add 1 gallon of gas - usually old mixed gas from the previous year.

1 gallon ashless 2 stroke oil. 1 can of Sea Foam, Anti bug stuff, Diesel clean and some Power Service or Schaefer's additive. One can of Amsoil Cetane boost.

I used to add a gallon of Marvel. But it says not to use it for highway fuel anymore.

Sea Foam mixes the water with diesel fuel, a bad thing. Don't use it in diesel fuel.