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Tips, tricks and the tools you use

J

jrsavoie

Recruit
Messages
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Location
Rural Clifton, Illinois
Removing the turbo on the 1996 Suburban to seal the valve covers.

what do you use to take the nuts off the turbo studs?

I used a stubby & 4" wobble extensions, and the IP wrenches

How about for the inside turbo oil return line? I haven't got that one off yet. I remember it being a pain last time. Cindy had to start it for me. I couldn't get my hand in there.

Any recommendations, tips or tricks for the whole project would be welcome. or any other project for that matter.

Also realized I have to get the heater hoses out of the way. I don't know if this is an issue on anything but Suburbans with rear heat.
 
I've been using a long extension (like 10"?) with a wobble at the end and going in through the gap between the inner wheel well and upper control arm after I take the wheel off.
 
10mm stubby for the inside bolt on the lower oil return line, attack from the valve cover side. Same attack on the inside-back turbo nut only with a 15mm 12 point box. Back of the hand usually ends up a bit bruised though. I've also gone up under the wheel well as described earlier with along extension. Works well too. Better if you've taken the extra time to pull the wheel well out but that's more work than being patient with the thing still in.

Once you have the oil return line off, pull the whole set up out and replace that $%^& OEM set up down to the block with your own creation or purchase Raceday's kit.

Put all nuts and bolts in the same container.
Research and write down torque specs for each part prior to start.
Use a jack to push the downpipe up a bit so the reinstall goes a little easier when you're trying to seat the "V" band clamp back on the turbo.
 
Paveltolz said:
10mm stubby for the inside bolt on the lower oil return line, attack from the valve cover side. Same attack on the inside-back turbo nut only with a 15mm 12 point box. Back of the hand usually ends up a bit bruised though. I've also gone up under the wheel well as described earlier with along extension. Works well too. Better if you've taken the extra time to pull the wheel well out but that's more work than being patient with the thing still in.

Once you have the oil return line off, pull the whole set up out and replace that $%^& OEM set up down to the block with your own creation or purchase Raceday's kit.

Put all nuts and bolts in the same container.
Research and write down torque specs for each part prior to start.
Use a jack to push the downpipe up a bit so the reinstall goes a little easier when you're trying to seat the "V" band clamp back on the turbo.
Click to expand...

I didn't know Raceday or anybody else had a kit for that.

Could anybody post a link? I always wanted to male something, but sometimes it's easier to buy. Since it doesn't look like this will be getting back together before Xmas, I need to look into the kit
 
PT Wiring Solutions, Raceday's online business. http://www.ptwiringsolutions.com/PRODUCTS.html
Link takes you to the HX 40 kit. You'll have to PM him for a price on just the oil lines as I didn't see it sold separately.

For an inexpensive alternative, remove the current metal tube and short silicon line use to attach the tube to the engine block from the truck. Be prepared for a bit of wrestiling (it will help you stay warm during the process anyway.

Cut the OEM tube from the turbo at the first elbow. Examples of a couple I have:
IMG_4452.JPG
After removing burs, reinstall it on the turbo 180 degrees out.
Using 3/4" High Temp-oil rated hose to replace the metal tubing, route the new line on the outside of the exhaust manifold and down to the engine block fitting using hose clamps to secure the set up.
IMG_4454.JPG
You can use heat shielding to ensure the hose stays off the manifold though I never had an issue after tightening down the hose clamps with the hose routed the way I wanted it to run.

Cleaning the parts with dawn liquid soap and water and drying completely prior to final assembly will help ensure weep free connections.

Next time you want/need to pull the turbo, undo the hose clamp at the top and it will slide off the tube and you can deal with the pipe after the turbo is off rather than knuckle busting and having to Zen Master the 10mm in to place.
 
Paveltolz said:
PT Wiring Solutions, Raceday's online business. http://www.ptwiringsolutions.com/PRODUCTS.html
Link takes you to the HX 40 kit. You'll have to PM him for a price on just the oil lines as I didn't see it sold separately.

For an inexpensive alternative, remove the current metal tube and short silicon line use to attach the tube to the engine block from the truck. Be prepared for a bit of wrestiling (it will help you stay warm during the process anyway.

Cut the OEM tube from the turbo at the first elbow. Examples of a couple I have:
View attachment 43653
After removing burs, reinstall it on the turbo 180 degrees out.
Using 3/4" High Temp-oil rated hose to replace the metal tubing, route the new line on the outside of the exhaust manifold and down to the engine block fitting using hose clamps to secure the set up.
View attachment 43654
You can use heat shielding to ensure the hose stays off the manifold though I never had an issue after tightening down the hose clamps with the hose routed the way I wanted it to run.

Cleaning the parts with dawn liquid soap and water and drying completely prior to final assembly will help ensure weep free connections.

Next time you want/need to pull the turbo, undo the hose clamp at the top and it will slide off the tube and you can deal with the pipe after the turbo is off rather than knuckle busting and having to Zen Master the 10mm in to place.
Click to expand...


Does anybody have a link to some 3/4" High temp oil rated hose? I've called around and haven't found any. The truck stop was closed for the holidays. Won't be open til next week

I just as well order it if I can. Otherwise I have to drive 60 miles round trip to get it.
 
I purchased Raceday's turbo return line kit. Not to be stupid, but how does it attach to the OEM turbo on our 1996 K1500 Suburban?

I installed the nipple, but there is not enough room for the hose to attach.

I am assuming the 90 degree fitting goes to the block and the 45 degree fitting goes to the turbo.

There is barely enough room to slide on a plastic dust cap. So even if I installed the hoe on the fitting that mounts to the turbo, there would not be enough room to put the turbo fitting on. It is very close to the turbo flange.

Has anybody mounted one of these on an OEM turbo? Any pictures anywhere?

Thanks
 
Raceday had replied to my email yesterday, but it went straight to my junk folder for some reason.

I do not know when I will get back to re-installing the turbo, I don't even have the valve covers done yet.

I'm guessing it won't be this week. I will need to make a new fitting to go to the turbo that sticks down far enough to thread the hose on or get a fitting to screw on to the piece that I already mounted on the block to go to a 3/4" hose barb.

Do you have a recommendation for a fitting to go to the block or the turbo? to the block it would probably have to be a 90 like Racedaymechanic has with the kit - only going to a 3/4" hose barb. To the turbo I could just cut the existing line or make another.

I like the idea of easily being able to disconnect the line. Maybe I could make something that sticks down far enough with the same fitting Raceday uses.

Any advice would be appreciated. I am trying to get away from something that is a pain. So I do not want to end up with something different that is a pain.
 
I could not get Racedays fitting to work on the 1996. It would work if the drain fitting to the turbo was a female NPT. I just did not have enough room to make the connection. If, when tightened the flats were parallel with the turbo flange, I may have been able to connect the AN fitting and then attach it to the turbo, But that is asking a lot and defeats the purpose of having an easy disconnect.

Going with Paveltolz suggestion
 
Ip nut tools:

ipwrench.jpg


Bent just right to get the drivers side nut on my OBDII truck without removing anything.

For the easy nuts -

736167813701xl.jpg


IP turning tool:

ipturner.jpg


The extra long arm makes fine movements of the pump a breeze.

Tuning software:

transdark.gif


(use it for other vehicles also)

Anything else I need specific to the job is spun on the lathe, turned out on the mill or programmed on the toughbook when I need it....
 
Paveltolz said:
PT Wiring Solutions, Raceday's online business. http://www.ptwiringsolutions.com/PRODUCTS.html
Link takes you to the HX 40 kit. You'll have to PM him for a price on just the oil lines as I didn't see it sold separately.

For an inexpensive alternative, remove the current metal tube and short silicon line use to attach the tube to the engine block from the truck. Be prepared for a bit of wrestiling (it will help you stay warm during the process anyway.

Cut the OEM tube from the turbo at the first elbow. Examples of a couple I have:
View attachment 43653
After removing burs, reinstall it on the turbo 180 degrees out.
Using 3/4" High Temp-oil rated hose to replace the metal tubing, route the new line on the outside of the exhaust manifold and down to the engine block fitting using hose clamps to secure the set up.
View attachment 43654
You can use heat shielding to ensure the hose stays off the manifold though I never had an issue after tightening down the hose clamps with the hose routed the way I wanted it to run.

Cleaning the parts with dawn liquid soap and water and drying completely prior to final assembly will help ensure weep free connections.

Next time you want/need to pull the turbo, undo the hose clamp at the top and it will slide off the tube and you can deal with the pipe after the turbo is off rather than knuckle busting and having to Zen Master the 10mm in to place.
Click to expand...


I should have made the piece that goes to the turbo a little longer than shown in the picture. The hose hits the exhaust manifold at that length. Another 3/4" or so would be better.

For as much time as I ended up with in this turbo drain, I could have made up several. It was a good learning experience though.
 
Back here again. I am working on the Tahoe now. I will not re-install an OEM style return.

Does anybody have a kit for the turbo return line yet?

I'm looking for a turbo return line kit for a 6.5 turbo diesel, similar to what Raceday mechanic has for the HX.
I made something up for the 96 Suburban by combining parts and ordering more. Raceday's kit will not work on the 6.5 OEM turbo.
The part that comes off the turbo crashes and you can not get to it to easily remove it. Defeats the whole purpose of doing the upgrade.
I like the way it ended up, but I do not know my fittings or braided stainless to put something together myself.
Even just a parts list would get me there.
I've never had an OEM turbo return that didn't leak after a short while - Not to mention they are a pain when pulling the turbo.
I want something like I now have on the 96 Suburban that you can just disconnect and not mess with those 2 little bolts.

I'd like to take it a step further and use braided stainless.

I have these fitting on hand - or should I just scrap them and go with something different: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271468994889?rmvSB=true&rmvSB=true

What would I use for sealant - apart from getting an aluminum nipple and welding it in?

Would regular pipe dope hold up right here with the heat from the turbo? Especially on aluminum?

I am not sure what will seal the threads since it is starting off with a female and will not be funneled into the next fitting.

Looks like we will have 6.5's for the foreseeable future. I want things the way I want them as I go.

I have 4 more vehicles to do
 
jrsavoie said:
I should have made the piece that goes to the turbo a little longer than shown in the picture. The hose hits the exhaust manifold at that length. Another 3/4" or so would be better.

For as much time as I ended up with in this turbo drain, I could have made up several. It was a good learning experience though.
Click to expand...

Did you buy the turbo return line kit from Raceday or make up your own by cutting the OEM tube?

With the OEM Tube cut and oil rated hose, it shouldn't hit the exhaust manifold unless you didn't route the line around the outside by reversing the cut back tube at the turbo so it pointed away. Pictures would help here....
 
Last edited:
I did buy the return kit from Raceday. It needs something different to come off the turbo with.

I made it work on something.

The 96 Suburban I cut and used the OEM tube and high temp oil rated hose.

This time - the 95 Tahoe, I am trying Leroys turbo return line kit.
 
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