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Tips, tricks and the tools you use

Great, As you see I did have to go with the nipple to get the hose fitting low enough to allow its removal/install. It would have hit the turbo otherwise.
OH and optional, but I would put a heat barrier of some kind on the hose to extend its life. Header wrap will do.
 
Burning oil said:
Great, As you see I did have to go with the nipple to get the hose fitting low enough to allow its removal/install. It would have hit the turbo otherwise.
OH and optional, but I would put a heat barrier of some kind on the hose to extend its life. Header wrap will do.
Click to expand...

I think I have some of that foil stuff here. If not, where is a good place to buy it?

Any links?
 
In the last 2 months I've bought some from both Summit and Amazon. I bought both Summit brand and DEI brand. I think the DEI brand is better quality. If the Summit brand stuff is crushed the foil will eventually come off, but if it isn't disturbed it's probably fine. The Summit brand stuff costs less too of course, so you have to weigh what is more important to you.

Summit brand at Summit
http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=summit heat

DEI brand at Summit
http://www.summitracing.com/search/...der=Ascending&tw=dei heat&sw=DEI Heat Sheaths

DEI brand at Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=dei+heat+sheath
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Paveltolz said:
..........For an inexpensive alternative, remove the current metal tube and short silicon line use to attach the tube to the engine block from the truck. Be prepared for a bit of wrestiling (it will help you stay warm during the process anyway.

Cut the OEM tube from the turbo at the first elbow. Examples of a couple I have:
View attachment 43653
After removing burs, reinstall it on the turbo 180 degrees out.
Using 3/4" High Temp-oil rated hose to replace the metal tubing, route the new line on the outside of the exhaust manifold and down to the engine block fitting using hose clamps to secure the set up.
View attachment 43654
You can use heat shielding to ensure the hose stays off the manifold though I never had an issue after tightening down the hose clamps with the hose routed the way I wanted it to run.

Cleaning the parts with dawn liquid soap and water and drying completely prior to final assembly will help ensure weep free connections.

Next time you want/need to pull the turbo, undo the hose clamp at the top and it will slide off the tube and you can deal with the pipe after the turbo is off rather than knuckle busting and having to Zen Master the 10mm in to place.
Click to expand...
i want to recommend that this mod be named in your honor.
i was fighting a leak on my return and thought i was gonna be down for days unless i removed a ton of parts to get to it.
so i searched and found this. thank you 10 times over for the solution to the pollution!
 
deejaaa said:
i want to recommend that this mod be named in your honor.
i was fighting a leak on my return and thought i was gonna be down for days unless i removed a ton of parts to get to it.
so i searched and found this. thank you 10 times over for the solution to the pollution!
Click to expand...
I'm glad it worked for you but, no, please don't name this after me as I got the idea from Bill Heath. I'm not sure if he's even the originator and not sure who would actually be able to claim it.
 
The above: most know trick of two wrenches interlocked for leverage, but it can bend open the open side and ruin wrench. Make one of these out of 1” flatbar. Couple different lengths help. These are my bigger ones for wrenches 1”-3” size. Gave away my last set of normal ones, gotta make another set. Quick wrap of tape holds it on if needed.

Also- using a piece of pipe as an extension handle- something all tool guys are taught is look for the moon shaped dents caused by pipe and warranty void. No marks ever left by these...

Cut up gear wrench for hard to reach places. Zoom in to see that the wrench can swivel on the rod by just drilled hole through wrench and on a pivot. Huge time/ knuckle savers.

Curved thing is like an extension/crowsfoot for reaching around things like actuators. A bit more involved to make, but once you make it- lifesaver.

Last one is chop socket in half and weld whatever pipe handy to make it a super deep. Made this one when I was like 11 years old. Still comes in handy. The square pipe seems counter intuitive, but able to put a wrench on it actually helps sometimes too.
 
I know the two wrenches locked together trick but not the flat bar trick. Good deal on that and I’ll be making a few come Monday morning hopefully.

Having the half moon marks on a wrench will void the warranty every time.
A young teenage fellow that works with me used a cheater bar on his 14” aluminum Rigid pipe wrench and broke the handle. All he really needed was my 24” aluminum pipe wrench but was to lazy to get it out of the truck. He said that he was going to turn it in under warranty. I told him that they won’t honor that because it’s obvious that he used a cheater bar on it. I was right and I was taught not to use a cheater bar on a aluminum pipe wrench long ago for that very reason.
 
Ive welded up aluminum ones afterwards and owned a banana 36” and banana 48” steel. All Rigid. Is there any other worth buying?!? Haha.

Actually nowdays I would look at Knipex. All their stuff I used is AMAZING. If you guys never compared knipex to channel lock type pliers- you’ll be spending $ so font look until ready to blow some cash!
 
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