Timing is Off, Can't Set It

[Big T]

CPS was never unplugged, only pulled (pushed on it from the inside while pulling from the outside) from the timing cover and cleaned off. As it was a snug fit, I oiled it lightly before re-inserting.

RockAuto has the CPS for $50. I guess while I'm waiting for the GMTDScan Tech and cable, I can order a CPS too.

 

[Mudbath]

While checking the wiring harness to the IP look for this little bugger which is sometimes on the 95 6.5 going to the optical sensor. It can be removed as it is just a noise suppressor or replaced, Heath has them.

http://www.heathdiesel.com/P/HDP1559/

 

[Acesneights1]

don't buy anything until you get GMTDScan and diagnos the problem. No point in wating money and throwing parts at it.

 

[Big T]

don't buy anything until you get GMTDScan and diagnos the problem. No point in wating money and throwing parts at it.

Yep, I ordered GMTDScan Tech last night. The weak dollar priced it out at $235. I guess Stefan gets an extra bottle of good vodka from that. Gonna let my hands heal up while waiting.

Had time to sleep on it and think it through. The only place one could be off is on the crank timing sprocket which is the small one. The sprockets slip over keys in the crank and cam, so they only go on one way. The cam gear slides on after the cam sprocket and it too is keyed and has a timing mark that is lined up with the pump gear mark, the pump gear itself only going on one way. If the timing were to be off internally, it would be at the the cranshaft sprocket. As that is the smaller of the two sprockets, the rotation necessary to achieve being off a tooth would be far greater than that required at the cam sprocket. I know I lined them up as my son helped me and I checked this several times.

My question is would it even run if the chain was installed off by an entire tooth?

Yeah, guess I'll have to wait for the GMTDScan Tech to figure this out.

 

[Dave Barbieri]

My question is would it even run if the chain was installed off by an entire tooth?

Yup, it'll run. There's 18 teeth on the crank sprocket. Each one is worth 10 degrees at the cam/injection pump. So you'd be throwing base timing off by 10 degrees, either advanced or retarded. It'd run like crap, but it'd run. From your description it sounds like the timing is pretty close. Before you tear into anything, check the timing with Stefan's scan tool. It took me just over a week to get my adapter and cable, so you don't have long to wait. If you can stand sitting still for that long, you'll end up with solid information to base a decision on. If you're REEELLY impatient, try slightly adjusting the pump timing. Use small increments - the thickness of a dime is a good standard for measuring how much you rotate the pump .

 

[SwedeBurb]

The Tech 1/2 won't allow you to do TDCO unless at operating temp but GMTDScan will but it won't set correctly if I undertsand it right. In otherwords with GMTDScan it needs to be at operating temp but gmtdscan doesn't have the failsafe that the Tech1/2 has

Exactly, I did not "childproof" any features in GMTDScan :smile5:

/Stefan

 

[Big T]

Stefan, if I indeed set the timing wrong and was off by a tooth on the install of the timing chain, would GTMDScan indicate this in its display of the actual timing? Per a post here, each tooth on the sprocket is work 10 degrees, either advanced or retarded. Base on my description of tons of grey smoke after a hard start, the conclusion is that the timing is likely retarded. Assuming I'm off a tooth, what would you expect the timing readout to be?

 

[turbovanman]

Stefan, if I indeed set the timing wrong and was off by a tooth on the install of the timing chain, would GTMDScan indicate this in its display of the actual timing? Per a post here, each tooth on the sprocket is work 10 degrees, either advanced or retarded. Base on my description of tons of grey smoke after a hard start, the conclusion is that the timing is likely retarded. Assuming I'm off a tooth, what would you expect the timing readout to be?

You would know if you got the chain timing wrong because you will have to move the pump to extremes to set the pump timing. The pump when set properly, should be pretty close to level with the motor, give or take 1/4 inch or so.

 

[Acesneights1]

It's probably off the amount that a new tight chain made it. I personally don't think the IP could phyically move enough to compensate for being a tooth off.

 

[chessie 6.5]

If you get it advanced by a tooth, the engine will be very LOUD at idle.No mistaking the difference in sound Retarded by a tooth and it will be quieter than usual and somewhat sluggish.