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Time to put an engine together

Nate if that block is still crack free after all this time, there is a good chance it will stay that way for a long time to come. Have you already cleaned all the mains, and done a thorough inspection? Same with the heads, if they're still crack free, you should be able to get a good service life out of them. You certainly won't loose any power going from 6.5 to 6.2, so I say go for it. If the mains are crack free, I would think a girdle would help them stay that way. I believe the injector angle is slightly different on 6.2 heads, so clearances will be tighter on the turbo side, but they should fit.
Nice score! :)

Matt
 
Thanks Matt. Yeah the more I think about it, the more I'm leaning this way, at least as a semi-temporary solution.

I cleaned the webs with brake parts cleaner until they were gray and dry and I looked at them with a flashlight and I didn't see any cracks. It seems like I read somewhere that someone had come up with a way to check for cracks with a torch, but I don't recall the procedure off-hand...I'll have to look for that again.

The heads I didn't look at as closely, but the cracks in the heads that are on my Tahoe right now were very apparent without cleaning so they're at least better than those. Before I do anything with them I will tear them down and clean them and really inspect them. The heads are 567 castings, so I think the injector angle is the same as a 6.5, or rather, I think they're the same head as what's used on a 6.5. If I do build this engine and find that the heads have cracks then I'll likely get a set of Optimizer heads from Leroy. I may just do that anyway to be safe. I'm still figuring out what makes sense o_O
 
$50 well spent, you get your $ back and then some. Both blocks need to go upside down for the oil draining crack check. No matter which block you use, get ARP head studs, the are for re use and are long term cheaper. Same for fluid damper, throw out the old balancer it's not worth the risk. The money you spend on these now will be recovered. Keep the other good spare block, just incase for the future so you can do it on the cheap until you spend the big bucks. When you can, I would go all the way to the p400. I have the optimizer and wish the p400 was an option back then.

Remember a better turbo can pay for itself in fuel economy with out ramping up the boost to high levels, think economy now to save for the big boy later. Then after a p400 is in and blasting, sell off all the old stuff that you will never have to use.
 
Leave block upside down and cracks will show up as oil lines in the mains.

With 6.5 precups this 6.2 block/heads can last a long time. I've been trying to blow up my 6.2's for awhile. The free flowing turbo's make a world of difference. The 6.2 heads may or may not have a different injector angle - the older stuff does and it only causes minor clearance problems with the turbo manifold. Get the better Banks manifold and it may solve this. Otherwise I run 6.5 short injectors on 6.2 heads with header wrap and possible 2 exhaust gaskets to help clearance on the turbo side.
 
Will and WW, I was hoping you two would chime in. It sounds like this is a good way to go then, thank you for the feedback! :D

WW, what balancer are you running on your 6.2's? What do you think about putting a main girdle on it? I kind of like the idea of a girdle to spread the load across the outer bolts.
 
Will and WW, I was hoping you two would chime in. It sounds like this is a good way to go then, thank you for the feedback! :D

WW, what balancer are you running on your 6.2's? What do you think about putting a main girdle on it? I kind of like the idea of a girdle to spread the load across the outer bolts.

IMO Girdles are iffy as the block is flawed to begin with just being a matter of time/miles. Too poor to try and run them myself when I built the engines. Heat as in over 210 ECT appears to kill GM cast heads and blocks. I run a GM dealer Harmonic Damper and inspect and replace as needed. Avoid the short life Dorman stuff.
 
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