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Time to put an engine together

n8in8or

I never met a project I didn’t like
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Ok, in the next month or so I hope to be doing an engine for the Tahoe. Since I had the heads off earlier this year I know the heads have cracks between the valves already. Before the heads were off I was using coolant, since the heads are back on it hasn't gotten any better. Now I have engine oil smoke out of the exhaust. New heads MAY fix both problems, but since my truck is a 97 I'm afraid I have some cracking going on in my block. We bought a 6000 pound travel trailer in October and I don't want to have a failure while on the road so I've already ruled out using my short block, even if it doesn't have cracks. Since most used stuff seems to be a crap-shoot, I'm going to leverage a little credit and step up to something newer. Here's the plan so far and please weigh in if I'm making a bad move anywhere.....I'm still in the planning stages right now so it's easy to change direction.

Engine: My standard choice for a usable engine is a take-out unit from Ted's. I feel comfortable with this since it's an Optimizer, has been tested by them and seem to be a reputable supplier with a few success stories on this forum. All other options are weighed against this. I'm currently investigating a new engine for sale 2 hours from me for $3400. I've asked for pictures of the casting marks so I can verify that it's an Optimizer and not something else. If it is an Optimizer I've pretty much decided that is the way I'm going since I'll have about that same amount into an engine from Ted's once freight is factored in. Also it will have a new harmonic balancer on it already and I won't have to invest in that. If I get an engine from Ted's then I'll likely be putting a new Delco balancer on it - I'd like to do a Fluidamper, but since that can be changed with the engine in the truck without a terrible effort I'd rather spend the extra money on other parts and then do the Fluidamper later.

Turbo: based on results from multiple people I had already planned on doing an HX40wii with tax money next year, but after reading Fellow Traveller's results with the HX40 he just did, I am now weighing that option. Both sound good so far so I just need to keep reading and see which I want to do.

Camshaft: I figured this would be a good opportunity to try a camshaft out. So far I see two choices - Heath's HT4 cam for $500 or I can get a regrind from Delta for $94. Based on price alone, I am definitely leaning towards the Delta option. Both will require a retune and it sounded like Heath would want to charge me extra to tune for the cam in addition to the money put into the cam, so $500+ for a cam only? Not sure I can justify that..

Timing set: I think I'll stick with a good chain set. I think either engine should have a good enough timing set in it, but I would check the one in the Ted's while I'm in there and if it's a bit loose replace with a good timing chain set....I'm not sure that a gear drive is worth the extra investment hear either.

Heads: Of course I'm taking the ARP head studs and Harland Sharp rockers off the current engine and putting them in the new engine. While the heads are off I would like to do a little pocket porting in the heads. I don't know how much it will help, but it seems like it can't hurt (as long as I don't take too much meat out) and I feel like it would be a waste since the heads will be off anyway.

Tune: Whatever mine final combo ends up being, I will definitely be having Heath update my tune to accommodate it. I also need to have him remove the MAF from the truck. They talked me out of it when I had my initial tune done last year and now I regret it because any cold air idea have currently has to accommodate the MAF sensor in the tract.

Intake: To start I think the intake will likely be stock. I have a K47 in the stock location right now with a NAPA filter, it works ok, but my filter minder is constantly tripped. The only way I can keep it from tripping is to take the lid off the air box. So I know that's a restriction even with my current combo so ultimately I want to put my battery where the air box is now and then build an insulated box behind the pass headlight area where the battery tray is now.

WMI: I like what I've seen with the WMI on 6.5L's truck, and since I'll be towing it seems like a good way to get some performance and also fight high EGTs while towing. I think this will go on the engine during the build so I can not be afraid to use any extra fuel that the new tune provides.

CAC/IC: I haven't looked at this too much, but I also like the idea of a charge cooler to help keep intake and EGT and ECT temps in check. I think this would be something to try maybe later in the year. I would love to do a before and after dyno comparison to see what it's worth. Because of packaging constraints I'm really interested in trying a water-to-air setup. I also like the idea that the tubing between the turbo and engine would be a lot shorter and hopefully minimize any possible lag.

Torque converter: I'm also going to have the trans rebuilt while the engine is out. I think my current one has a weak pump, and again, since I'm towing I want to have peace of mind there as well. My rebuild guy recommended Precision Torque Converter. Interestingly they offer a lower-than-stock stall speed option for heavy duty applications, but in talking with both Heath and Delta, they both recommended a stock stall speed and that makes sense to me.

Fuel: I already have all the parts to do a Raptor pump, remote fuel filter and Feed The Beast so those will certainly be going on when the engine goes in.

Cooling: I think I'm just going to do the fan clutch mod rather than buy the lower temp clutch Kennedy offers. Also, since I have a 97 I already have a pretty good blade, right? Since the engine will be out and empty of coolant I'm considering putting Evan's coolant in it. Sure it's pricey, but it sure sounds like good stuff. Plus if I don't get a new blade and clutch then that helps to offset the cost.

Pulley: I will be putting a new Delco pulley on the engine when I put it in.

I think that's it for now. Did I forget anything? Any suggestions? What about the cam??

I wasn't planning on doing this engine stuff this year, but now that my hand is kind of forced I'm pretty excited about it! Besides what good is credit if you can't use it to build a BA engine for your truck??

ps. Future upgrades: it would be cool to maybe try a Merlin pump from Heath or see if someone else has a strong DS4 pump, but I'm not sure if an Optimizer is strong enough for that much potential fuel or if that's getting into P400 territory. I know, probably optimistic power-wise, but aren't most of us 6.5 hot-rodders optimists?? I also love the idea of a custom center mount turbo with custom fabbed headers. The fab part of it doesn't scare me, but I'm still learning about turbos.... and since the truck is my current DD, it doesn't make sense to make it a guineau pig for such an experimental setup.
 
Oh, I thought of one more thing....has anybody taken the stock sound deadening off the firewall and put something better in its place? It would be a perfect opportunity to do so with the engine out and I have to believe there's something better than the factory stuff that's hanging there.
 
Oh, I thought of one more thing....has anybody taken the stock sound deadening off the firewall and put something better in its place? It would be a perfect opportunity to do so with the engine out and I have to believe there's something better than the factory stuff that's hanging there.

Not exactly. Will presume the question is for tamping down the motor noise.

I still have the OE pad on the firewall, added sound deadener under the carpets, and replaced the OE carpets with a thicker carpet. It worked a bit, but not enough.

Have seen some people replace the OE firewall pad with sound deadening material, so maybe applying it to both sides of the firewall will help even more.

Noticed that you have a 30" FTE, so with that, a muffler, and sound deadening, it probably is as quiet as possible without something fancy like inventing an active sound dampening system for the rig.
 
Thanks for the info Jay, yeah I was hoping it would dampen the clatter a little. I'll keep researching and see if I can find any more info on this. Also, in reading your signature, it reminded me that I was planning on doing a new oil cooler and braided lines from Leroy while everything was apart.

How do you like those Energy Suspension mounts? Much harsher than stock? I had thought about doing all new stock mounts while it was out.
 
Just food for thought:
A Teds for $3400 then do you plan to rebuild it or just runit like it comes? The one I got from them had NA precups on it.
If you'll need/want to rebuild (depending on what it needs/machine work) then you could get really close to what I sell a brand new Optimizer for $5950. Food for thought.
 
Wow Nate, when you told me you started a thread on the future engine build of your tuck, and said you got a little long winded, you weren't kidding! :D Sounds like a great build, and I hope that engine turns out to have a diamond in the lifter valley, and of course 90* heads. If it did, $3400 would be a steal! I love all your plans for your build, and wouldn't mind having a WMI on mine.
As far as your turbo goes, I guess it would depend on where you really want to see it perform best at. If you want to have a hard time wiping the grin off your face while running around empty, then I would say the HX40WII would be your turbo. If you really want the best for towing then the HX40 would probably be better, as my WII has a little more cruise boost than I like (4-6 at 70-75), and its higher yet when I'm pulling a heavy trailer behind. FellowTravler says his HX40 spools pretty quick, and he's very happy with it. The boost on my WII is almost instantanious, and if it wasn't for my boost controller, it would hit 25 psi by about 2500 rpm.
Look forward to watching your build, and if that 6.5 turns out to be a good one, please post pics! :)

Matt
 
Just food for thought:
A Teds for $3400 then do you plan to rebuild it or just runit like it comes? The one I got from them had NA precups on it.
If you'll need/want to rebuild (depending on what it needs/machine work) then you could get really close to what I sell a brand new Optimizer for $5950. Food for thought.

I believe the Teds 6.5's are $2900 Leroy. The one he was talking about for $3400 is supposed to be new.

Matt
 
How did you seal the ARP's into the block? The ARP's go into coolant and have a reputation for leaking. I use red or blue locktight depending on what is on hand and no leaks. Many other ways to seal them.

"I think I'm just going to do the fan clutch mod rather than buy the lower temp clutch Kennedy offers..."
I have had great luck with a known known of the Kennedy clutch rather than trying to mod a worn out clutch. At least start with a new clutch to mod. IMO just get the Real McCoy from KD.

Converters... part of a total power package. Decide now if you want to keep the low RPM garbage GM turbo or go with a larger turbo. larger turbo's spool at higher RPM and you may want to go with a higher stall converter. I am trying out a higher stall converter myself.

Turbo's, head porting, and exhaust have lots of room for improvement over stock.
 
War Wagon, your in trouble for not recommending the sealed rings here. ;)

Once you put that engine together, you cant add that later, and they will pay for themselves with longer oil life, longer bearing life,etc. I would wait on the wmi if you had to to get them in there when it goes in. Everything sounds good.
 
Thanks for all the input guys! I just got home from the daughter's band concert and looking at this on my phone which makes it hard to look at and respond to it all. I'll check it out again in the morning and give it the attention it deserves.
 
War Wagon, your in trouble for not recommending the sealed rings here. ;)

Once you put that engine together, you cant add that later, and they will pay for themselves with longer oil life, longer bearing life,etc. I would wait on the wmi if you had to to get them in there when it goes in. Everything sounds good.

Edit: Missing links to gapless ring suggestion I apparently always give above.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/total-seal-gapless-rings.29135/#post-363927

With pics from matuva
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/gapless-ring.42183/
 
Good luck with which ever way you decide to go.

The following is based on my bad experience with carpets and the jute insulation holding water after a dip or two in whatever water crossing it would be making for some nasty odors and a mess that needed cleanup to prevent rusting of floor/firewall of Burb.

As sound deadening goes DEI makes a real good tunnel heat shield which I used over the inside firewall of my burb after removing all the carpeting and jute insulation. I cleaned the floor and firewall then applied uv barrier DURABAK mil spec non-skid naval vessel deck coating, then took the DEI and flipped it upside down and then applied non porous sleeping mat to the DEI over the interior firewall and footwells and back to the middle of front seat area, the passenger area only gets the sleeping mat and I went with commercial/govt contract composite flooring which looks like the old rubber flooring.

As of today the best sound barrier is lead and it gets expensive to go that way but it is the best option to kill any undesirable sounds etc.
 
How do you like those Energy Suspension mounts? Much harsher than stock?

The took about a month to break-in and they seem good. Did not notice any effect on motor noise. Am still happy with the results with the ES mounts as the old ones showed signs of age and it was time to replace them. For the next project using ES, I am seriously thinking about replacing the front end bushings with them.

Just after the ES mounts were installed, when I shut down the motor it made a firm 'chunk' noise like somebody slammed a brake on the flywheel. Over two months the 'chunk' smoothed out and it does not do it any more.


As of today the best sound barrier is lead and it gets expensive to go that way but it is the best option to kill any undesirable sounds etc.

I will argue that most cost effective sound barrier for motor / exhaust noise is the volume knob on the stereo :D
 
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Thanks for all the input guys, it's really helping me to steer the direction of this.

A Teds for $3400 then do you plan to rebuild it or just runit like it comes? The one I got from them had NA precups on it.

Hi Leroy, if I go the Ted's route I'm hoping to just use the engine as-is; from most reports they seem to be in usable condition as-received. I wasn't sure what pre-cups a Ted's engine would have, but yes if it doesn't have Diamonds in it, it will definitely be getting diamonds put in it. That's why I'm ultimately hoping that the other engine I've found is a new Optimizer as it should also have the diamonds in it to start with and just one less thing to spend money on outside of the engine.

As far as your turbo goes, I guess it would depend on where you really want to see it perform best at. If you want to have a hard time wiping the grin off your face while running around empty, then I would say the HX40WII would be your turbo. If you really want the best for towing then the HX40 would probably be better, as my WII has a little more cruise boost than I like (4-6 at 70-75), and its higher yet when I'm pulling a heavy trailer behind. FellowTravler says his HX40 spools pretty quick, and he's very happy with it. The boost on my WII is almost instantanious, and if it wasn't for my boost controller, it would hit 25 psi by about 2500 rpm.

Hi Matt, yeah a little long-winded.....but it was nice to get all the thoughts swirling in my head down in one place. Thanks to everyone that has actually read through it so far as I love to see the thoughts coming in! As far as the turbo goes, yeah that was the same conclusion I was coming too. I was surprised to see how much boost you're making at cruising speeds and that's what made me wonder about going to the HX40 that Fellow Traveler is using. Mine is a DD right now that runs unloaded 99% of the time, and hopefully will only be used to tow our trailer for 3 or so years until I can get another truck project done, so the wii is the one that seems to make sense, but I'm still watching what you and Fellow Traveler say about your turbos intently.

How did you seal the ARP's into the block? The ARP's go into coolant and have a reputation for leaking. I use red or blue locktight depending on what is on hand and no leaks. Many other ways to seal them.

I think I'm just going to do the fan clutch mod rather than buy the lower temp clutch Kennedy offers..."
I have had great luck with a known known of the Kennedy clutch rather than trying to mod a worn out clutch. At least start with a new clutch to mod. IMO just get the Real McCoy from KD.

Converters... part of a total power package. Decide now if you want to keep the low RPM garbage GM turbo or go with a larger turbo. larger turbo's spool at higher RPM and you may want to go with a higher stall converter. I am trying out a higher stall converter myself.

Hi WW, I sealed my ARPs with Permatex Teflon thread sealer. I'm not seeing coolant in my oil so I don't think it's leaking that way, but perhaps it is....I will check into this further so I make sure I use the right stuff on the studs when the new engine is put together. Thanks for the feedback on the Kennedy clutch, I will seriously consider it, but it's looking like I need to really concentrate on the stuff on the inside of the engine right now....what you have shared regarding the Total Seal rings has me thinking that they should be seriously considered despite the cost. I agree on the converter being part of a complete package - for a while now I've been feeling like my stock converter is holding me back even in my current combo. My thought was that I needed a tighter converter so it would put the power through the drivetrain rather than just flaring, but I don't think that's the only thing going on with my trans. I am excited to see how your higher stall converter performs. Since I plan on towing with my truck I don't think a higher stall is a good idea for my combo, but I have come to see that it makes sense to stay with a stock stall speed and not go to a lower stall speed.

Once you put that engine together, you cant add that later, and they will pay for themselves with longer oil life, longer bearing life,etc. I would wait on the wmi if you had to to get them in there when it goes in. Everything sounds good.

Hi Will, thanks for bringing up the Total Seal rings, definitely something to strongly consider and yes anything I can do on the outside engine later to make sure I can do impotant stuff on the inside now is a smart way to tackle this. Thanks for reminding me of that.

The took about a month to break-in, but they seem good. Did not notice any effect on motor noise, but am still happy with the results.

Hi Jay, thanks for replying about the mounts. I had seen a little discussion before regarding stock versus ES mounts, so I was interested to see what your experience with them was.

As sound deadening goes DEI makes a real good tunnel heat shield which I used over the inside firewall of my burb after removing all the carpeting and jute insulation. I cleaned the floor and firewall then applied uv barrier DURABAK mil spec non-skid naval vessel deck coating, then took the DEI and flipped it upside down and then applied non porous sleeping mat to the DEI over the interior firewall and footwells and back to the middle of front seat area, the passenger area only gets the sleeping mat and I went with commercial/govt contract composite flooring which looks like the old rubber flooring.

Hi FT, I'll look in to the DEI stuff. I still kind of like the idea of trying some better sound deadener on the firewall while the engine is out because it seems like there is a lot of surface there that you could cover unlike on the inside of the truck that has the HVAC and everything else in the way of doing a complete surface to block the noise. This may fall off the list though depending on the cost of internal engine upgrades.
 
Just read the whole original post. Thoughts:

> Power management: IIRC, there is a torque limitation in the Tahoe's rear (am open to somebody correcting me on this). Presuming the Tahoe does have a lower power rating than the pickup and Burb platform, will need to look at limiting power in the tune. Along those lines, a DS4 is the better cost choice over the Moose from a fueling perspective. Cam might still prove helpful, but will need to talk with smarter folks than myself on how it will work with the powertrain as a whole.

> Intercooler: consider the ATT as it does not need an intercooler and does not use a wastegate, so the end result is a much less complex system that performs much better than OE.

> Coolant: I am in the camp of using waterless coolant. Positives for waterless are it minimizes cooling issues, you can de-pressurize the system (Yes, drill a hole in the fill cap) which takes stress off the hoses and pump, there is no need to change the coolant over time, and there is no water to corrode the motor. Down sides are that waterless coolant can *NOT* mix with glycol coolant and a leak can get expensive.
 
> Power management: IIRC, there is a torque limitation in the Tahoe's rear (am open to somebody correcting me on this). Presuming the Tahoe does have a lower power rating than the pickup and Burb platform, will need to look at limiting power in the tune. Along those lines, a DS4 is the better cost choice over the Moose from a fueling perspective. Cam might still prove helpful, but will need to talk with smarter folks than myself on how it will work with the powertrain as a whole.

> Intercooler: consider the ATT as it does not need an intercooler and does not use a wastegate, so the end result is a much less complex system that performs much better than OE.

> Coolant: I am in the camp of using waterless coolant. Positives for waterless are it minimizes cooling issues, you can de-pressurize the system (Yes, drill a hole in the fill cap) which takes stress off the hoses and pump, there is no need to change the coolant over time, and there is no water to corrode the motor. Down sides are that waterless coolant can *NOT* mix with glycol coolant and a leak can get expensive.

Good thoughts Jay. Yeah the Tahoe has a 10 bolt in it right now. The r&p has been noisy since I got it so I've been searching for a 6 lug 14 bolt to throw in it....hopefully that will happen not far from the new engine going in it. I was initially planning on the ATT, but then switched to the CKO HX after reading more and more threads. It's a good point that you bring up regarding the lack of complexity. I think I'll still go HX, but I will be sure to weigh the options fully. What you're saying about the waterless coolant all seem like good reasons to give it a shot, and yes that was my one hesitation....if I do have a leak oh boy that will get expensive.

Nate
 
While the EVANS is pricey and say you do have a leak and catch it sooner than later water can be used in emergency then boiled off later and replace coolant lost I had confirmed this with tech support at EVANS.

If I may suggest. replace the heater core (s) hoses, thermostats water pump and radiator and dont worry about leaks if the diesel is sealed properly when assembled "attention to ARP studs bolts as they will leak if not sealed properly.

If you run a low pressure cap or a zero pressure cap like I do then there is no pressure stress on parts and hoses other than pump head pressure which drops off as coolant exits to radiator. High end silicone radiator and heater hoses will further reduce leak issues in the long run. Pay attention to any air gaps around radiator and the radiator support and seal any gaps yes under the upper radiator cover too.

That cover (some call a skid plate) between the front chassis rails and between the bumper and lower radiator support is to prevent air stalling through the radiator at speed.

Remember the EVANS ELIMINATES CAVITATION which is real important on diesel and high performance engines.
 
Energy suspension diesel/454 specific motor mounts are the best option for longevity as are ES control arm bushings I've done this and never looked back.

Another item is SS idler bracket which is massive and uses tapered wheel bearings as opposed to bronze in OEM bracket it's the last idler bracket you'll ever buy.

14 bolt ff w/6 lug axles is a great match for the vehicle however the 14 bolt semi floater will suffice too.
 
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