• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Tightening the short bolts of main bearing caps.

AKDriver has the opening part right.
You HAVE TO align hone the main caps when adding a girdle. The altered tortion change WILL WARP the main cap tension.

For the engine that keeps braking crankshafts: you need to have the rotating mass balanced after align honing. New balancer, crank, rods,pistons, flywheel.

The torque on studs vs bolts are way less because you rotational force on a bolt is drag of the large threaded area. On a stud it is a small cross section of threads of the nut. Also the lateral force is applied much more evenly with a stud.

It sounds like you are trying to "at home engineer" this. Doing that with a problem block/engine is not advisable. Imagine your assembly turns out perfect, with a perfect fit on bearings, cap to girdle, all torques, etc.

If whatever is the crankshaft breaking problem is not resolved- what do you blame if this one breaks? Too many variables.
 
That tourque is assuming you bought ARP studs- 8740 chrome alloy.
What metullurgy is your main studs, and are they full seating?
 
OK. I unscrewed the main studs. And cut the girdle. I left it only for three holes. How to tighten the bolts and nuts? Heads studs mast tightened by hand and nuts 90-130 lbs / inch, depending on the lubrication.
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=25324

Like Will stated, the specs you were given by John on the other site is for ARP studs... is that what you bought??

over torking them WILL cause harm, and your girdle better have the holes exactly right, diameter, spacing etc...

best of luck to ya...
 
Alloy steel. 3% carbon. 1% chromium, manganese, silicon. I do not know how English. Studs are heated and cooled in the oil until a maximum strength
 

Attachments

  • image.png
    image.png
    87.7 KB · Views: 2
Nope. 3% Carbon- starts it off way to high. That will be too brittle. 1% chromium will causing shearing rate through the roof. Doubling the amount of chromium will give it 100% the shear rate of the 0.5%.

No good. Send them back to where you got them. The shock load your dealing with on what I see so far is going to fail. Your better off with factory bolts than those.

Read the specs:
http://asm.matweb.com/search/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=M874AO

Playing around with just any girdle or just any studs you might luck out and have it hold together- if you have engines to throw away then ok, just use an scatter shield that can withstand multiple rounds from a Kalashnikov mounted between the engine and the driver. Otherwise NO.
 
Thanks Will! I picked up the Russian equivalent of 8740. Standard bolts do not fit in length. What about heads studs? 3% carbon is bad too?
 
They are bad. Do not use. These are not things to guess at with this engine.

Either use stock GM or order from ARP.

Can you order from Leroydiesel.com ? If not start searching for another source.

If you can not get them direct from USA, there is a shop in Chelyabinsk Russia that rebuilds Hummers (and other vehicles) at an amazing level of quality. I can not imagine his engines are less than perfect looking at how he builds the rest of his stuff. Maybe I can get you in contact with him?

If the rest of you guys want to see some of the best Hummer fabrication work around, lmk and I'll post a link to some of his builds on a hummer forum. Zero errors.
 
This guy is making multiple Hummer specific parts for his own use on other threads, this one his hinges he makes would probably sell for $800- $1,000 for an entire set, if he would sell them.

For those that dont know, silver is the hardest paint to get perfect. If you can see his paint finish, its way better than factory. His parts he makes are way better. Steel to paint.

Validol, maybe you should send this guy an email?

http://www.hummernetworkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=238595&highlight=sale
 
Back
Top