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Thoughts on fixing a fuel leak ...

95Burbnc

95Burbnc

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Messages
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Location
Hays, NC
I've been working on my 'burban this past weekend. I've almost completed installing Bruce's awesome 2/0 battery cable set and glow plug harness along with a new OPS + relay mod and a new GP solenoid/relay while I had it apart. I've drilled and tapped the exh manifold for the temp gauge and I got a remote PMD cable and boost bolt from Leroy to get my gauges hooked up and move my PMD from the top of the intake to the bumper.
This all started because I have one of those annoying fuel leaks in the valley. (has this ever happened to you?!) I have the FFM pulled out and I have the FTB kit to install on it to complement the chip I installed a couple years ago. I've got new O-rings for the FFM and new fuel inj hose too.
I never located the source of the fuel leak exactly but know it was coming from the valley - it seemed to be more near the FFM than the IP, but I can't decide if I should pull the intake and check the fuel lines at the IP or not. I can't get to very many of them with just the upper intake off - what do you folks think? If I pull it - I'm concerned about torquing them back correctly because I have a real relic of a torque wrench - an old craftsman with the torsion bar<?> so I'm not sure how accurate it is.
I guess I should pull the intake because I'm going to be really irritated if it still leaks after all this and I was this close...
 
pull it, you might find some hidden treasure in there, like a wrench or something tearing up fuel lines.

sounds like youre getting it set up for success.
 
For the FM to IP I like the Goodyear hose from Autozone. The one with the blue inner liner, its high quality, but $4 a foot.
 
Oh ya, Was going to say, I had a leak once it turned out to be oring on FM heater base. Another time I thought it was the injector lines, so took lower intake off, fire the engine up to inspect the lines and it turns out the IP was leaking at the bottom though a weep hole. This was DB2. Does DS4 have the same hole?
 
Had the same problem. My advise for what its worth would be to go to peninsular diesels web site and order a new take-off fuel manager for 85.00 comes complete (if it is the same as a 96 like mine) and replace your fuel lines to the ip and the drain valve. I tried the o-ring kits and they didn't help. Tried the rtv and no luck there. Double check that it is not oil had a nightmare job when some how the bolts loosened up on the ip and oil started seeping out from between the ip and gasket.
 
anyone got a good source for those orings? I can't get the local stanadyne dealer to even talk to me on the phone.
 
Thanks for all the advice & encouragement folks! I guess I'll get a set of gaskets and pull the intake off this weekend. A big thanks to Turbine Doc for the advice on customizing a 17mm wrench for getting to those IP line nuts!
 
I got some metric threaded rod and remounted my FM up higher. This allowed me to re-route the fuel lines out of the heat in the valley under the manifold. Also the FM is easier to reach and watch for fuel leaks this way.

Don
 
Yea the FM is not setup to be user friendly by any stretch of the imagination.

The cost of the O rings is absolutely out of site. I am currently running mine in my Tahoe with a rubber O ring seal for the FM heater that I purchased from the local hardware store $2 bucs, don't know how long it's gonna last but I do have the replacement O rings in the glove box.

The suggestion to purchase the entire FM for $80 is the best cost option IMO & IME.

Thanks for the PM Mike :thumbsup:
 
Before I got all squirrely and yanked the intake, slide your hand down in and around the FFM

These are known to leak though the heater unit in the bottom.

My bet is that its either one of the fuel hoses or the FFM itself thats leaking.

You can remove the bolts that hold the FFM to the intake and this will afford you the ability to move the FFM around and get a hand down in there.

If the leak is the FFM, toss that damned thing and get a Raycor 230R2 filter assembly and mount it up front near the ABS unit.

You can eliminate the rubber hose down in the valley this way too.

Just use a brass double barbed fitting and route a good hose to the filter and then from the filter to the top fitting on the IP. ( Reuse the infeed hose from the lift pump)

I did this with DaHooooley a long time ago.

The filter for the Racor is a spin on with a water bowl on the bottom that has a drain too.

These are way better than the original FFM unit.

These can be had with a fuel heater, but unless you live where it gets blistering A$$ cold, just forget about the heater.

When I check my oil, I can see the filter bowl and if it has any water in it.

Good luck

Missy
 
I paid around $5 from Hydraulic shop for the o-ring at the FM fuel heater..

My measurement said it is standard o-ring number 134.

Don't quote me on it since I just measure the one with caliper and match the size with chart found on the web with google.

TD have the pictures on how to change it.
 
ak diesel driver said:
so where did you buy the ones you got in the glove box?
Click to expand...

Both my spares are the rubber O rings for the FM heater...one I got from a friend (thanks you know who you are!) The other O ring also for the FM heater I had to fight with my local Stanadyne dealer with to get. I had purchased a new replacement FM heater from them & the box it came in never had the O ring in it...they made good on it, after a few calls...
 
Missy Good Wench said:
Before I got all squirrely and yanked the intake, slide your hand down in and around the FFM

These are known to leak though the heater unit in the bottom.

My bet is that its either one of the fuel hoses or the FFM itself thats leaking.

You can remove the bolts that hold the FFM to the intake and this will afford you the ability to move the FFM around and get a hand down in there.

If the leak is the FFM, toss that damned thing and get a Raycor 230R2 filter assembly and mount it up front near the ABS unit.

You can eliminate the rubber hose down in the valley this way too.

Just use a brass double barbed fitting and route a good hose to the filter and then from the filter to the top fitting on the IP. ( Reuse the infeed hose from the lift pump)

I did this with DaHooooley a long time ago.

The filter for the Racor is a spin on with a water bowl on the bottom that has a drain too.

These are way better than the original FFM unit.

These can be had with a fuel heater, but unless you live where it gets blistering A$$ cold, just forget about the heater.

When I check my oil, I can see the filter bowl and if it has any water in it.

Good luck

Missy
Click to expand...

Well chit...I sure woiuld have gone that route if n I would had known that the FM heater is not really needed here in Ill...:???: :mad2::mad2:

I hate the FM setup on these. The one on my 90 F250 was right up front, just about like you describe Missy. Easy to get to spin on H2O drain & best of all it had a DP reading on the dash so ya didn't have to guess when the filter needed change.
 
it took me 3 calls to even get the guy at the local stanadyne shop who knew what I was talking about and he never returned my call for price/avail
 
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