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Thinking about adding 2 stoke oil....gotta couple Q's..

G

great white

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OK, I'm not looking to get into a debate about benefits problems, etc. There's more than enough threads out on te web about that.

I'd just like to know who uses it in DS4 equipped trucks, how long they've been using it and if there have been any negative effects.

You can toss in any good effects if you want, but my main thrust is to ask if there have been any short or long term problems from using TC-W3.

My specific concern is the optical sensor and the "coloring effect" that adding 2 stoke oil will have on vehicle running behavior.

Cheers
 
I have run red fuel, & 2 cycle until Bill Heath told me SAE30 is all he ever runs in his, SAE30 costs less than 2 cycle when I buy at Dollar general-Big Lots etc. by the case.

I have never had any issues with optic sensor, been running with oil & without since 2000, when ULSD became the primary fuel you could get I always run 30W with power service grey, when I'm at my camp near a AG supplier I'll run farm fuel(red) in it.
 
Supposedly the hard coat (ceramic) of parts in later model IPs is supposed to negate need for extra lubricity, at cost of IPs throwing oil in the mix IMO is cheap insurance, according to Bill H it adds a little mpg as well, my right foot never stays out of the throttle long enough to say one way or another if that is a true statement or not.
 
I can't answer the first part of your main concern , never had my IP apart and hopefully never will.
I used synthetic non detergent 2 stroke oil with my Tahoe for the last yr. and didn't experience any ailment from it I noticed that it seemed to run a little smoother. JiFaire said just use 30W motor oil the non detergent cheep stuff. So I switched to that after 2 tanks of fuel it seemed it runs even smoother yet and quieter, don't hear the injection pump or the injectors clicking so much. Come to think of it I can't them at all over the light clack of the pistons and rumble of the exhaust.
 
I too use oil 1 qt per tank,, 34gal. But my truck Loves me,, and rewards, me with hardly any injector clatter, When I put in 6 Gallons of Bio Diesel to top off the tank. When accelerating by a neighbors fence,, all I hear was Jardine exhaust, and turbo whistle, all with a great smooth idle.
 
well, just topped off.

Drop a quart of Shell nautilus 2 stroke TC-W3 in it.

It may be a placebo effect, but it seems a bit quieter by the time I got home. I'm hoping when I back off from -1.94 TDCO it'll get even quieter yet.

I'm going with 2 stroke for now based on the diesel place study (found on the web) ranking 2 stroke significantly higher in the study over motor oil.

Granted, they seem to have tested used 15w40 against 2 stroke and not straight (new) 30 W....
 
That study is, pardon me, not applicable. Aside from the fact 30wt ND isn't tested, the lubricity differential is minimal (and isn't tested under equivalent conditions - temperature, mixture with ULSD, etc.) and the added benefits from the combustible qualities are ignored. Not all of Arlen's test fluids are positive in that department.

And they are present. Mileage will go up, guaranteed - it's like adding BTUs to the tank.

Granted, not much, but...

I ran 2-stroke mixed with PS grey for the longest time - tracked mileage both pulling and empty under pretty consistent conditions; I felt I was getting almost 1mpg consistently, which wasn't enough to pay for the additive, but hey, every little bit helps.

Then Bill talked me into running straight cheap-o 30wt. No difference in mpg, but (I thought) it was quieter than with the 2-stroke and PS mix.

And the 30-wt is much cheaper and available anywhere.

As for staining the OS, you're fine either way - just don't go adding used tranny fluid or used motor oil, unless you like surprises.
 
Ive run tcw3 2 stroke in my truck for over a year, no problems. One time i changed the fuel filter and had a heavy dose in the tank...noticed the fuel looked blueish, kind of scared me due to the OS but truck seems to run great.
 
Got a neighbor that has 1989 6.2 with 278K on it, he runs nothing but diesel, on rare occasion he'll dump in some anti gel additive in the winter.

I run allot of miles weekly, every other tank I dump in a QT of TC W3. I have no idea what I may be helping or hurting, but it makes me feel warm & fuzzy after I do it lol

Oh forgot to add, noise yup mine has never been real quiet but it's a diesel ain't they all supposed to rattle some, I like the noise mine makes.
 
JiFaire said:
That study is, pardon me, not applicable. Aside from the fact 30wt ND isn't tested, the lubricity differential is minimal (and isn't tested under equivalent conditions - temperature, mixture with ULSD, etc.) and the added benefits from the combustible qualities are ignored. Not all of Arlen's test fluids are positive in that department.

And they are present. Mileage will go up, guaranteed - it's like adding BTUs to the tank.

Granted, not much, but...

I ran 2-stroke mixed with PS grey for the longest time - tracked mileage both pulling and empty under pretty consistent conditions; I felt I was getting almost 1mpg consistently, which wasn't enough to pay for the additive, but hey, every little bit helps.

Then Bill talked me into running straight cheap-o 30wt. No difference in mpg, but (I thought) it was quieter than with the 2-stroke and PS mix.

And the 30-wt is much cheaper and available anywhere.

As for staining the OS, you're fine either way - just don't go adding used tranny fluid or used motor oil, unless you like surprises.
Click to expand...

Interesting points J.

I'm not intricately familiar with the test, so I'll gladly concede your points. :)

However, I think I'll stick with the 2 stroke oil for now.

It seems the difference (at least to me) is that the 2 stroke oil is expressly formulated to burn cleanly (relatively) in the combustion process while providing lubrication to cylinder rings and walls, whereas the 30 w is formulated to lubricate bearing surfaces and cylinder walls with the understanding that some of it will make it's way into combustion.

All things equal, I believe the 2 stoke oil provides lubrication without leaving behind excessive deposits/byproducts as a result of the combustion process.

Maybe I'll try a quart of 30 W in the next tank full to check it out though.

Crap, seems I've been drawn into a debate about it despite my best intentions......):h
 
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I don't know if the 2 stroke oil contributed to my OS going bad or not. I work on alot of snowmobiles in the winter months. Alot of folks wanted their oil drained and replaced with a different brand this past winter. I put their 2 stroke oil in my fuel tank every time I would fuel up. The color of the oil I used varied from blue to purple. My OS started acting up this past winter. This summer it finally gave out. I just put in a good used OS in and I think my problem is solved. I only put on 20 miles on so far so I am not out of the woods just yet.

I am keeping my fingers crossed that I have solved my running problems by replacing the OS. In the back of my head I am wondering if the colored oil left a film on the OS. I am considering changing to the 30wt motor oil. It could be the OS just gave out being I have 220,000 miles on the original pump.

I just need to figure out now how to run this GMTDScan to get the -1.94 that everyone is looking for.
 
personally I think the fuel quality varies from place to place and that might be why some people have good luck with 2 stroke and others don't
 
I'm running a little more than 0.5 quarts of 2-stroke-oil in every full 26 gal. tank sinc 2005 without any problems. Here in germany, the ULSD is yellow coloured and the 2-stroke-oil also, so no probs with colour. Home heating oil is the same like ULSD, but it is red coloured and illegal to fill in a car/truck.


Cu,
Sven
 
I used to run 2 stroke in every tank and it deffinently helped quiet her down a bit. I just have been slacking lately, I'm gonna try the 30WT and try to get back on top of doing it.
 
AK diesel driver said:
personally I think the fuel quality varies from place to place and that might be why some people have good luck with 2 stroke and others don't
Click to expand...
I like AK's point about fuel quality... there is a definite difference between today's ULSD and the stuff as it was first brought out. When ULSD was first mandated, we saw a rash of DS4s starting to have problems - and the older the IP, the more immediate and persistent they were, leading me to believe that IP condition is yet another factor in this equation...

Thus, the sudden rush to find decent lubricity additives - and yes, putting in lots of lubricant can cause the infamous IP codes (17,18, 35, 36 - or the equivalent p0251 etc) to disappear and keep the IP alive for a long time.

What we discovered were other benefits - more power, quieter, added mileage, increased injector life, etc - either real or imagined (which is the same thing, when you get right down to it - perception is reality)

I know that a lot of our new ULSD has lubricity additives build-in, and that there is a very large difference between 'premium' and 'regular' diesel (cetane number, seasonal/regional blend composition, etc), so I'd guess that AK is right.

Good point, as usual!
 
Second day with the 2 stroke.

Dropped in a dose of my fuel treatment to go with it this AM.

Morning drive seemed to be a bit smoother and quieter than 2 stroke alone.

I'll drive off this tank full and see how it goes from there.


by the by, diesel is now cheaper than gas here. 99.9 for diesel, 107.9 for gas.

:)
 
I don't know but suspect its very complicated and not just lubricity that the oils add.

I notice a difference if I add Sae 30 ND and a Cetane improver. I think the oil adds some viscosity, film strenght, and/or shear strenght that helps with pump "slippage" and "the hydrodymamics of pumpability". The cetane improver helps the combustion crispness. Which offsets some of my aging IP's pressure loss / atomization.

I suspect the newer fuel is less stable because of the refining process and addition of newer lube additives like biofuels to try and offset the new refining (sulfer ridding) lack of lubricity. And I think the newer bio additives are even more subceptable to water emulsion problems and maybe???? seperation or other issues in the large bulk storage tanks and stations. This more than likely increases the importance of station maintance and bulk polishing programs etc. And causes more than previous fuel variations of subtle fuel quaility issues.
 
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