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Thinking about a rebiuild

john65td

john65td

Addicted to boost
Messages
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1
Location
Cassadaga New york
My motor is gettig tired. i need to do a rebuild soon but i dont know where to start. if i get a new 6.5 or 6.2 short block and build it, or get a 6.5 long block and build it. or find a used engine to build. i plan on headstuds new intake and exhaust manifolds and a team turbo the injectors, glow plugs and pump only have 20k on them. but after that im kinda lost. any input guys?
 
compression test to know if it really is tired. 200,000 is not that many miles. If it truely is tired, I'd go with new aftermarket[clearwater] or new GEP optimiser. Forget about the cracking issues of the gm blocks.
 
Its starting to make some noise. almost like bad lifters. went fron around 60 psi oil pressure now im lucky if i can get over 40 psi. i thinik its got head issues too. plus i get a excuse to got bigger and better. where can i get pricing and info on clear water stuff?
 
another question if i use a 6.2 block will all my 6.5 stuff fit? will that block have provisions for the ops and turbo oil?
 
200K on a 6.5 is about the limit on the head gaskets in many cases.

Been through several and 200-250 and the gaskets go away due in part to electrolytic erossion of the block at either number 1 or 2 cylinder where the water passage in the block meets dead end at the head.

The gaskets emersion in coolant at this point causes the stainless fire ring and the block to react.

Newer Felpro gaskets have been modified to stop this issue.

A GM Block in either 929 or 599 casting ### that are not cracked will likely remain crack free.

An insert repaired block will stay with the program too.

The scat crank is a great plan.

You can build a great engine for a very affordable price as compared to buying a GEP unit.

NOW, Here is how I have done it.

Ebay is a great spot for good prices on top quality parts.

My DaHoooley Build was around $2K and this was a decent build, not a patch up.

Clearwater heads will cost you about $670 for the pair to the door.

I paid $50 for a complete set of Mahle bearings
$35 for complete set of HMMWV Chrome rings
Block cost $350
Pistons $200 (set of 8)
Bore and fit pistons $150
Deck the block $200
My build ran into a couple issues due to the block having been decked once before on one side only.

A scat crank is about $400
Timing chain is usually all you need to replace and not the entire setup.
Unless I was going to go racing I would save the $$$ and not get a gear drive.
Gear drives are fine but I feel its not worth the extra $$$ for a daily rig.

There are some things that you can't get easily off ebay but many things like piston, rings,bearings and such are usually available and for good prices.

Your call here, but a great engine can be built on a budgit.

If you do your home work, watch ebay and do the assembly yourself, you can build a Helluva 6.5 for $3K

Ebay for all the internals you can (careful on watching prices)
Clearwater heads
Local parts store where needed for little stuff
Good local machine shop to do the boring, decking and such.

Install new cam bearings as a matter of fact.
New lifters, (Cam should be fine, just check the lobes)
Local injector shop for the injectors (must do the squirts)

If you go with a scat crank, get the rotating assembly ballanced.

Just some thoughts that may help.
MGW
 
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OH BTW

YESSSS you can use a 6.2 block and all the goodies will fit with the exception of the crank and the pan unless you find a late 6.2 with the one piece rear main seal.

91 and later 6.2's were built on the 599 casting.

Use all the rest of your 6.5 stuff.

If you are running DS4 injection, use the 6.5 heads, fuel lines, timing cover, timing gears and ballancer from the 6.5.
 
thank you missy! you come through again. so if i get a 6.2 block and rotating assembly i can just bolt up 6.5 heads? what would compression be?
 
john65td said:
Its starting to make some noise. almost like bad lifters. went fron around 60 psi oil pressure now im lucky if i can get over 40 psi. i thinik its got head issues too. plus i get a excuse to got bigger and better. where can i get pricing and info on clear water stuff?
Click to expand...

:idea: I would suggest that you check out what is really wrong first. You could have a bad oil pressure sender or gauge. Bad injectors or other minor problem like the plastic part broken in the valve train could be your noise source.

You may just need a new timing chain and oil pump.

Do you have bad blow by?

I would be 100% sure I needed a rebuilt engine before laying down $3K+. Esp. since diesels wear differentially than a gas engine.
 
Its got massive blow by. you take the oil fill cap off it puffs like a freight train! injectors only have 20k on them and ops is 3 months old gm unit. the rocker arm inserts are probly worn, the engine has been overheated by prevoius owner, it needs head gaskets and im afraid what else ill find. i figure why bother will it when i know it needs help and i want to throw more power at it. at 200k i dont know if it will hold up to a a team turbo like i want. thats the track im thinking on, dont know if its good or not
 
I just installed a Diesel Depot 6.2 / 6.5 reman. Since my crank and block broke, I don't have a core. The price was right.

It runs great, all of my stuff transfered over just fine.

Do plan on oil cooler flush, or replacement (prefered). I replaced my lines with stock one, since I had them. There are beter setups to just replace them.
 
Sounds like you are on track then. I wasn't sure the engine condition from the first posts. How is the rest of the vehicle? Hope it isn't a black hole like mine. (The engine long block, hitch, and transfer case was the only good thing on it when I got it.)
 
the truck was orginaly from alabama, brought up here in 2004. i bought it in 2008. previous owmer used it to tow his camper. i learned 2 months after i bought it, the truck has been over heated several times. it was stock at 176,000miles then i did everything in my sig to it. before i got it, it was rode hard put away wet. everyting else is solid and in good working order. its getting painted and shift kit in the spring other than that its good. i want to run the truck till, i build the other motor. once its all built i will swap them
 
well here is an update, i need to do something with this get the ball rolling. at first i wanted a duramax, for more power. well there too expensive simple put. then i looked into a cummins swap, again no luck.i had found a complete truck 96 12v p-pump offered the guy a grand he said yes. i was waiting for the loan to process, and the sob sold it out from under me! so were back to square one. i'm afraid if i build the 6.5 i wont be happy with it when its done. i got roughly a 4,000 budget. used block, new crank, new internals, head studs, a-team turbo, vin f intake, and all the other mods in my sig. with all that im thinking it will be a stout 6.5. but as everyone knows fuel is what limits the 6.5. How hard is it to reach 300hp with a 6.5? thats what i want to know. i know its do-able, but how much cash does it call for? or whats the recipe to accomplish this goal?
 
If you are looking for reliable, consistent and CHEAP 300 rwhp then the 6.5 is not your friend.

Best numbers on street driven 6.5's seem to be around the 230 rwhp mark (give or take a few ponies).

Bill Heath has a high HP 6.5 and it seems as though chevydiesel does as well. Both trucks are purpose built race trucks and both engines have some $$$ dumped into them.

There seem to be many people happy with the a-team turbo, but I have yet to see any actual hard numbers to back up the claims of increased HP. Once dyno or 1/4 mile times from a-team turbo trucks roll in, the 6.5 *may* be sitting at 250 rwhp reliably...

Take it from a former 6.5er who thought his old truck could move....it is nothing compared to the DMAX or Cummins that you are dreaming of....

Perhaps scour the local salvage yard...if you are any good at bodywork you might find a wrecked newer diesel that you can get for a decent price....or, continue the hunt for a good used cummins...lots of them out there...
 
x2. 12v cummins are out there even if you have to buy it with the ugly wrapper...:D
A Dmax would be nice like Ferm did but you really gotta know electronics and have some seriuos cash. Not for the average BY Mech. Cummins is an easier swap and been done many times. Just fix the KDP before you drop it in.
 
Yes, I am aware of those runs. They don't come close to the 300 RWHP that the OP is after....

It looked as though KOJO's numbers were *calculated* from the dyno to be 261 HP at the crank.

Using a HP calculator put my old truck with a GM-4 at a *calculated* 258 HP at the crank and 237 HP at the wheels. (6750 lbs and 16.7 ET) - this was with my tiny 2" WTA intercooler as well acting as more of a restrcition than a helper....

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/Phil/bg/

Hopefully there will be dynos released that show a much bigger difference in numbers between the A-team turbo and the GM-X tubos than the Finnish runs show....just my 2 cents....
 
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