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The Powermaster 9052 starter for 6.2 and 6.5
- Thread starter WarWagon
- Start date
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
I got one of these starters off of Leroy. On Sunday, I had planned to move my truck over into the shop, from where I last parked it a few weeks ago. As it turns out, my batteries had given up the ghost. Two attempts from my CTEK didn't bring them back to life this time.
Two new MTP-78 batteries and a new starter, so I'm looking forward to driving this again.
On a side note - I know there has been discussion before on battery life and I've given my history with Interstates. Here is another one for right at 10 years for the Megatrons I just turned in.
Two new MTP-78 batteries and a new starter, so I'm looking forward to driving this again.
On a side note - I know there has been discussion before on battery life and I've given my history with Interstates. Here is another one for right at 10 years for the Megatrons I just turned in.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
My replacement came with a tag where the starter brace attaches that said ground strap here. Contemplating running one from there to the battery
If your battery cables are good then the engine block is the best ground. A second "strap" to the battery from the starter is a ground loop and what battery are you going to make work harder from the lower resistance to the starter?
IMO just do a strap from the starter to the engine block. Also make sure there are no shared grounds with the battery cables. Bolt comes loose, corrodes, etc. the other attached ground connection/wire gets asked to take 100% of the current the big cable normally does. Bad things can happen with ground loops like that.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I disagree with WW. Starter is highest amp draw. Run it to starter first. Then from same connection point another cable same size to block, preferably at or near alternator.
A ground loop occurs if you interrupt lower voltage or lower amperage circuits AND RE CONNECT them to the ground source AND have a difference in voltage.
Since trucks already use multi circuit grounding through out the harness, body, and frame - the potential is already there.
All semi trucks, heavy equipment, etc i ever worked on did the ground like I said.
A ground loop occurs if you interrupt lower voltage or lower amperage circuits AND RE CONNECT them to the ground source AND have a difference in voltage.
Since trucks already use multi circuit grounding through out the harness, body, and frame - the potential is already there.
All semi trucks, heavy equipment, etc i ever worked on did the ground like I said.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
So since the starter bracket connects to the block how would that be any different than running an extra ground to the block?
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Only thing I see is a cleaner path and still grounding the block better
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Really, the bracket and the fade for the two main bolts do pretty well. Thats how the ground gets to the starter when the neg cable goes to the block.
Remember I am OCD, and an electrician, along with the years of spinning wrenches. Then my motto is: There’s no kill like overkill. So I tend to get carried away, but never have issues, so maybe it isn’t carried away?
The trucks are a lot tighter work space there because of the turbo and exhaust manifold.
Remember I am OCD, and an electrician, along with the years of spinning wrenches. Then my motto is: There’s no kill like overkill. So I tend to get carried away, but never have issues, so maybe it isn’t carried away?
The trucks are a lot tighter work space there because of the turbo and exhaust manifold.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
powermaster does free up a little real estate
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I wish i had taken a pic of the Powermaster next to the hummer/hmmwv starter. It is insane. 18” x 12” x 8” and weighs 50 lbs. anyone familiar with the original 6.2 direct drive starter- this is a bit bigger and heavier. The 3/8” post in the middle of the housing is the ground post for it.
I wish there was an equivalent on the powermaster for the ground. But you’ll notice the one part of it that is bare from the crinkle coated protection style paint is where it mounts to engine for both smooth surface, but picking up a good ground.
I wish there was an equivalent on the powermaster for the ground. But you’ll notice the one part of it that is bare from the crinkle coated protection style paint is where it mounts to engine for both smooth surface, but picking up a good ground.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Like the old heavy duty Delco starters on the heavy equipment. They had a grounding lug attached the the brush end cap.
The context I was thinking of is that most people reach for battery terminals for grounds or power for things. Better ground is the engine block and better power is at the "alternator sensed" junction block. (Large power like wrenches excepted.)
I haven't run across the ground lug on a starter before. If you are going to use it: Both batteries should have their ground cables run to it - not just one. This evens out the work both batteries do.
The context @Will L. and I are talking about is with high current on large cables including a big lump of iron (engine block). With high current you get a voltage drop on large cables. Even 0.1V voltage drop is significant to a battery in a dual battery system. It means one battery is working harder than the other one. Same with charging and a voltage drop where the batteries see a different voltage.
Starting on page 16 below is how to hook up more than one battery. GM (Dodge RAM Diesels too) did us no favors with the mickey-mouse long positive cable run. Big rigs, CCUV's, etc. have the dual battery next to each other rather than on the other side of the vehicle.
Well, So What? Every time I had a battery "drop dead" it was going to be the passenger side battery. The long positive battery cable lets the driver side battery not work as hard just from the resistance of the long length battery cable. Fan rotation and extra heat also reduces the life of the passenger side battery (esp. on The Duramax). If the batteries lasted longer for me it would be worth it to rotate the batteries. Equal cable length still leaves fan rotation and one battery getting hotter than the other.
I haven't run across the ground lug on a starter before. If you are going to use it: Both batteries should have their ground cables run to it - not just one. This evens out the work both batteries do.
The context @Will L. and I are talking about is with high current on large cables including a big lump of iron (engine block). With high current you get a voltage drop on large cables. Even 0.1V voltage drop is significant to a battery in a dual battery system. It means one battery is working harder than the other one. Same with charging and a voltage drop where the batteries see a different voltage.
Starting on page 16 below is how to hook up more than one battery. GM (Dodge RAM Diesels too) did us no favors with the mickey-mouse long positive cable run. Big rigs, CCUV's, etc. have the dual battery next to each other rather than on the other side of the vehicle.
Well, So What? Every time I had a battery "drop dead" it was going to be the passenger side battery. The long positive battery cable lets the driver side battery not work as hard just from the resistance of the long length battery cable. Fan rotation and extra heat also reduces the life of the passenger side battery (esp. on The Duramax). If the batteries lasted longer for me it would be worth it to rotate the batteries. Equal cable length still leaves fan rotation and one battery getting hotter than the other.
Just leaving this here for info/pricing on a new PM https://leroydiesel.com/products/powermaster-starter/
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
There's no sticker for a ground wire from the front post on the new starter. I had no plans to add anything that wasn't already there.
I was surprised the two wires are in such different locations from the OEM starter, but it looks like I'll have plenty of wire for both.
There is no nose cone on the Powermaster, which I've not seen any discussion on. It appears there will be a small gap between the starter and the flywheel cover. Maybe 1/8". Is there any concern on this? I seem to recall a foam gasket type of piece on a truck starter I once had. Is that in order for this area? Of course, I guess without a nose cone, there is nothing to hold that gasket in place, so we can probably rule that one out.
There was a small tube in the box, as well - about 2-3" long. It wasn't attached to the starter, but appears it might have been, although I can't say where it would have come from. It's flexible - sort of like nylon and black on one side like it was painted over and still white on the other side. It's about a 1/4" ID if I remember right. Any ideas?
I was surprised the two wires are in such different locations from the OEM starter, but it looks like I'll have plenty of wire for both.
There is no nose cone on the Powermaster, which I've not seen any discussion on. It appears there will be a small gap between the starter and the flywheel cover. Maybe 1/8". Is there any concern on this? I seem to recall a foam gasket type of piece on a truck starter I once had. Is that in order for this area? Of course, I guess without a nose cone, there is nothing to hold that gasket in place, so we can probably rule that one out.
There was a small tube in the box, as well - about 2-3" long. It wasn't attached to the starter, but appears it might have been, although I can't say where it would have come from. It's flexible - sort of like nylon and black on one side like it was painted over and still white on the other side. It's about a 1/4" ID if I remember right. Any ideas?
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
No concern on the gap that I’m aware of. I’ve seen starters with a gap in that area before.
Long as no big rocks can bounce in.
Long as no big rocks can bounce in.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
10-4.
so the gap is typical on these?
so the gap is typical on these?
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I have not been under My truck for a long time. Tomorrow I’ll get out my chunka cardboard, scoot under the truck and check the gappage. See if I can getta picture of it.
Have a PT appt so might be late morning.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Ima bout tired of PT. 3 days a week I don't get started until noon.I have not been under My truck for a long time. Tomorrow I’ll get out my chunka cardboard, scoot under the truck and check the gappage. See if I can getta picture of it.
Have a PT appt so might be late morning.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
And here I’m complaining at only Tuesday and Thursday.
I get 18 sessions, this is number 4 and I’ll be happy when thats all done.
Then it will be time to make a decision. Live with this condition, or, get the L5 fused to whatever is below it. I think I’m going to go for the fusion method. After that is healed I hope to be able to strap on a 40 pound pack and hike into the mountains and hills with the son and grandchildren for some hunting adventures. It takes about 40 pounds to be able to survive for the ten day journey.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Ite our golden years!! Love em or leave em!---