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The Powermaster 9052 starter for 6.2 and 6.5

SnowDrift said:
.Great price, Leroy. When I'm ready, I'll be looking you up. Thanks!

Does the Bosch unit whip the engine as fast as the Powermaster? I don't think anyone ever put their finger on this information.
Click to expand...

I doubt the Bosch does any better than the OEM, rebuilds, etc. They are just building OEM equivalent starters with the same motor design. So the numbers I posted should apply.

Powermaster's site says 35 ft. lbs. more than stock. (260-Foot Pound/Diesel) Hmmm... My starter makes more torque than my lug nuts take...
 
I think that's because of the cost difference. If it were the same cost and fails you'd go - oh well need another one. But with the added cost your expectations are for better results.

When it spins that engine over faster and starts easier your all for it, especially if you have a hard starting engine like ours are under rough conditions or high mileage (low compression). If your engine is all perfect and your living in a climate of 80 degrees with a fast start, you'll question the cost.

Of course, like 540s10 did where he got short life span from his. Did you notice a difference in faster rotation in you 540 when you had them in there?

After breaking mine from off-roading, I don't know if I could buy another for the cost and warranty -1 year vs a lifetime warranty. But if my truck was hard starting or in cold weather where these trucks struggle a bit I would buy 1 again without hesitating.
 
That's exactly right. I bought my Powermaster as part of a number of things (AGM batts, manual glow plug override, better batt cables, etc.) to ensure my ~ 19:1 comp 6.5 would start at least as reliably as stock. 7 years/60k miles later, the more costly batteries (Sears DieHard Platinum version of the Oddysey AGM's) & starter continues to work as intended.

When it's below zero outside, that additional cranking speed helps.
 
I'm about to order a Powermaster starter (I think I said that years ago, too) and read reviews mentioning replacing the main bolts and having trouble with the stud on the front for the support bracket. Someone even mentioned buying ARP bolts and spacing them, which I'm not a fan of spacers unless they're required for some purpose.

1) Should I plan to replace the main bolts if mine are not broken?
2) What is the torque spec. on the main bolts?
3) Should there be any bracket or stud modification necessary for the front support?
 
SnowDrift said:
I'm about to order a Powermaster starter (I think I said that years ago, too) and read reviews mentioning replacing the main bolts and having trouble with the stud on the front for the support bracket. Someone even mentioned buying ARP bolts and spacing them, which I'm not a fan of spacers unless they're required for some purpose.

1) Should I plan to replace the main bolts if mine are not broken?
2) What is the torque spec. on the main bolts?
3) Should there be any bracket or stud modification necessary for the front support?
Click to expand...
1. I installed my Powermaster on my Tahoe and reused the factory starter bolts. When I installed the Tahoe's engine into my dually, I decided to use the ARP bolts this time.
2. I don't recall the factory torque specs, but the ARP bolts come with their own torque specs and will be provided.
3. No modifications are necessary.
 
My suggestion is get new GM bolts. It’s like $20 and you would be set for ever. I have the part number and torque spec at home and can get it to you tonight- but I have never used the arp for starter, so I can not say good or bad on the ARP. ARP getting something wrong is REALLY REALLY RARE.

If the front bracket is in question get one of those and the bolts for it. To me the extra few bucks spent is like insurance.
Keep the old starter on a garage shelf for years down the road when it’s time for a rebuild.

AWESOME to hear you will stock them Leroy.
 
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