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The Boat Thread

JayTheCPA said:
Given this boat, am not sure that I'd go over the power rating if there are plans to keep it. Especially now that we know the PO did not take such good care of it and we are still in discovery mode in terms of its health.

With a healthy 70 hp on the transom and some foils on the lower unit, it should have enough oomph to pull a skier up. Should scoot pretty well too.
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YUP, thats the plan.
I too noticed that under full power the transom does flex some.
I`ll be adding some stainless steel channel steel inside the transom to alleviate that problem.
It all seems very solid other than that, No soft spots nor rot, so I`m sure the hull will last a very long time.
 
Took the block to the marine shop. He can bore it, He said it will clean with a .040 bore job. He showed Me a cylinder from a motorcycle, said it was way worse than our block, it cleaned up with a lot to spare at .050, so, that is the plan, especially with LA Sleeves being at 300 a hole, and, fitting the pistons above and beyond that. LOL
 
Finished stripping the block, one stud and two dowels, did a little scrubbing on it then took it back to the marina, the guy doing the boring said He would prefer having a new piston before He starts, said He could bore it without but can get it a lot closer on the first pass if He has a piston, so now, waiting for the son to order in the parts.
In the mean time, I mentioned to the son about how loose the propellor shaft is, moves forth and back about a 1/4 of an inch, Now doing the lower unit too, this is good. Get the whole job done in one pass then, it should give Him quite a few years of trouble free boating, if there is such a thing. LOL
 
ak diesel driver said:
BOAT= bring on another thousand
Click to expand...
And that is the truth.
Took apart the lower unit gear box. Gears all look good, bearings not so much, same way with seals.
Started removing the drain plud, water started coming so i though, lets just wait and see how much water. left the plug in but loose. Came back in an hour, one of them lacquer thinner cans, laid on the side with one side cut out for a drain pan had about 3/8ths of an inch of water within. LOL
Dumped that and drained the lube.
Tore into the gear box after removal there of. At about the last step, needed a special kind of a socket to remove a bearing race retainer nut thingy. sort of like a four wheel drive spindle nut socket. A stick of black pipe and the cutoff wheel and a wrench was made.
Now, get that all washed up and gears separated from bearings and see if there is any local stores with said bearing. if not, gettum coming from online, after I see about straightening the skag thing, that little fin thing what hangs below the prop. It has a bend and a twist to it, causes for a lot of back wash onto the right, starboard side of the transom.. LOL
I can straighten it, not sure it would be correct.
Blacken aluminum with the acetylene, then start heating, whan the black starts burning off, better be for not heating any farther, might melt out on Yuh. LOL
 
MrMarty51 said:
Yes, and, yes.
Top cylinder no. 1 was 100 PSI, bottom cylinder, No. 3 was 125 PSI and center cylinder no. 2 was 000 PSI. It would just budge the compression testers gauge..
I did remove and give the prop a once over. It has some numbers which are mostly wore off, the end of the line said 13 and then thee was a like a half a circle just beyond that. I see that there are variances of the 13 propeller listed, like 13 and 3/8ths etc, but, with as high as this circle was it would not have been an 8 and there is no sizes with a 9 so I am guessing it is just a 13.
The spare prop that came with the boat is an incomplete unit, it needs a thing called a hub kit for it to fit the splines.
I`ll get one of those a coming.
OH YEAH, the new prop is made by Michigan Wheel and the name on it is Vortex. Number 14. looks like it would bite a whole lot more water than the old propeller. LOL
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Compression should be at least 125 psi across all cylinders on a two stoke; 145 psi when new.

Force outboards were a low end brand made by Mercury. They were junk. Any money you throw at it is wasted money.
 
Big T said:
Compression should be at least 125 psi across all cylinders on a two stoke; 145 psi when new.

Force outboards were a low end brand made by Mercury. They were junk. Any money you throw at it is wasted money.
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Well, I guess the old engine lasted from 1992 to probably within five years from now, so, if it lasts half that long on a rebuild then it will all ne well worth it.
Force was originally built by Chrysler, then Mercury bought the rights when Chrysler was going to quit the boat motor business. Some parts are from the Chrysler but mostly from Mercury, the 70 horse Force was made only from 1991 to 1995 so some parts is obsolete but there is enough available components to do the complete rebuild of this engine.
I was surprised when looking for bearings for the gear housing, NAPA had every bearing in stock, and, a lot cheaper than from one of the marine suppliers.
Kelly showed Me a youtube video of a Maxum 1700 RX with the 70 horse Force engine and it looks to me like these things really rip with just a 70 horse engine. Max CG rating for this hull is 75 HP so I guess the 70 should be just fine, after getting compression back to all three cylinders. LOL
 
MrMarty51 said:
Well, I guess the old engine lasted from 1992 to probably within five years from now, so, if it lasts half that long on a rebuild then it will all ne well worth it.
Force was originally built by Chrysler, then Mercury bought the rights when Chrysler was going to quit the boat motor business. Some parts are from the Chrysler but mostly from Mercury, the 70 horse Force was made only from 1991 to 1995 so some parts is obsolete but there is enough available components to do the complete rebuild of this engine.
I was surprised when looking for bearings for the gear housing, NAPA had every bearing in stock, and, a lot cheaper than from one of the marine suppliers.
Kelly showed Me a youtube video of a Maxum 1700 RX with the 70 horse Force engine and it looks to me like these things really rip with just a 70 horse engine. Max CG rating for this hull is 75 HP so I guess the 70 should be just fine, after getting compression back to all three cylinders. LOL
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True about the Chrylser history and the build quality did not improve under Brunswick/Mercury. Seriously, I would not throw a single dollar into the rebuild of that engine. Better off looking for a good used 4 stroke engine.
 
I had just got my Conch27 back with new engines on when my discovered the leak/flood at the Montana home....then Covid shutdown started. Still have do a few things on this boat.

 
Big T said:
True about the Chrylser history and the build quality did not improve under Brunswick/Mercury. Seriously, I would not throw a single dollar into the rebuild of that engine. Better off looking for a good used 4 stroke engine.
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Yeah, the son realizes that the four stroke is the best way to go, except for, five grand or more for a used four stroke just is not affordable right at this time.
Kelly said that in three years he will be able to afford a four stroke 70 or 75 horse engine but for now, $1200.00 into this old boat anchor is going to have to do. Then He can sell this engine and probably get his rebuild money back and purchase that four stroke.
Marine suppliers in this area are very far and few between. There is a very over priced marine dealer in town here and they really stick it too a person, next nearest is Billings, 150 miles to the west or, The marine supplier over in Glasgow, probably close to 200, or slightly over, miles to the north. That dealer does have Mercury engines and thats probably what the son will go with, controls are all the same.
 
Big T said:
I had just got my Conch27 back with new engines on when my discovered the leak/flood at the Montana home....then Covid shutdown started. Still have do a few things on this boat.

Click to expand...
The dealer here in town has a 90 horse Yamaha, they want $10,000.00 for that and it is used. Just not in the budget at this time.
 
MrMarty51 said:
The dealer here in town has a 90 horse Yamaha, they want $10,000.00 for that and it is used. Just not in the budget at this time.
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Lot more deals on used engines in SoCal. Should be able to get a used 70 hp for $3K to $4K. Outboard engines are easy to ship. I could haul a 70 hp engine up to Stevi in the back of the '99 Suburban.

The engines I put on my boat were used Yamaha F200 4 cylinder w/ 370 hours on them. They were Yamaha's engines used for CARB testing. $24K for both of them with controls and a 3 year warranty. Of course the work on the boat done to convert it from diesel inboard/outboard and all the "while you're at it" stuff was huge. The boat is completely redone with new deck and gelcoat topsides. New the boat starts at $150K. They are still built on a custom order basis in Jupiter Florida. Very sought after boat down there, but mine is the only one on the West Coast.
 
I will let Kelly know about So Cal and Your offer to haul an engine north for him. I tried to talk him into a newer two stroke, for three thousand or so. He said he just could not afford that right at this time. He just bought a brand new 2019 Dodge 3500 diesel so He did stretch himself quite thin. He did the payments on three years with a huge down payment, so, once that is out of his way, it wont take him long to save enough to have the cash in hand.
By then, he might even just go for a newer bigger boat too. Use this one for the feeler into what his next boat should be. 🤷‍♂️😹😹😹
 
Take an old honda (or anything) 4cylinder from a junkyard, add dry sump oil kit. Silicone some stuff like distributor, Turn it on it’s side. Bam! Low cost great power and reliability along with mpg, mega parts availability.

There has to be some good backyard crap like that going on.
Ten thousand dollars for a gas 90 hp engine- holy macaroni!
 
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