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Suburban Renewal – 15,000 miles later

B

bobbiemartin

Author of The DB2 Conversion Guide
Messages
567
Reaction score
22
Location
Jacksonville, Florida
Well, a little update on the AMG engine in the Suburban. If you don't remember, you can read all about the engine install HERE.

First, its still running well, maybe better than ever. My wife drives it most days, cant really blame her. :) There have been a few problems, but fortunately nothing major. I've had some small but aggravating oil leaks. One was my fault, a small void in the sealer on the left valve cover. Not too bad to R&R. Fixed that but still had oil seeping. So I did a test and the Mann Pro Vent was not working as it should. The crankcase was lightly pressurized, not the vacuum it should have. So the oil was being blown out. I did a test and temporarily installed the CDR. The test confirmed what I thought, no more oil leaks.

The motor mounts seemed to be failing as well, it wasn't as smooth as it was and the downpipe was very close to the frame rail. In addition, I had reused a set of nearly new but economy priced injectors from a popular Florida panhandle based Diesel shop. I can't put my finger on it, but something just didn't seem right with the engine. It ran well, but maybe not great.

So I was looking at changing the right side valve cover, which meant removing the turbo. I decided I would change the injectors and the motor mounts at the same time. I started sourcing the parts and planned on a weekends work.

I contacted the guy that worked over my DB2 pump and had him build a set of genuine Bosch injectors. He test each injector and sets then all at the proper pressure. I sent the CDR valve cover out to the powder coaters. The motor mounts were a name brand, but I decided to take no chances this time. I went to my local Chevy dealer and ordered a set of genuine GM motor mounts. In a couple of days I had in my had a nice set of real GM motor mounts, with “Made in China” stickers proudly attached! Only just over $100 for a pair of fine China motor mounts. Lets hope they outlast the cheap China stuff – or was it Mexico, I can't remember.

With all the parts in hand, the work began on a typical Florida summer day, I think it only got to 97 or so! Anyway, it all went fairly well. With the turbo & intake off, replacing the motor mounts was not too hard. The mounts were squished pretty well, worn out after only 15,000 miles.

Motormount-1.jpg

As you can see, the GM motor mount is beefier than the aftermarket mount.

Motormount-2.jpg

Fine quality GM – but most likely not made by UAW workers - motor mount on the left.

OK motor mounts replaced, new valve cover on and injectors replaced. Then just reassembly and CDR plumbing reinstalled. I sourced an oil fill (thanks Barry!), but didn't have time to paint it (Alpine Green of course) so had to temporarily plug the vent. Its now painted so I'll change it out soon.

Sub070411-001.jpg

The GEP engine with the CDR installed. Score CDR 1, Mann Pro Vent 0

I have to say the engine runs better. Its certainly smoother. Even my wife noticed! Was it the injectors? Motor mounts? Not sure, maybe both. I'll be sending the old injectors out for testing, so I'll know if they were a problem or not. The oil leaks have stopped, the bottom of the engine is dry now so I'm real happy about that.

TransMount.jpg

The trans mount was the same brand as the motor mounts, so it got changed as well. It wasn't quite as bad as the motor mounts, but still squished. It got a new GM mount as well, only that one looked to be made in the USA!

So that's about it, its running well now, actually very well. I have the turbo master set about 9.5 pounds on the GM8. Seems quicker with the new injectors. Mileage was averaging 17.5, I'm hoping its better now. Have to drive it some and see what happens.

So what's next? I'm really happy with the Sub, probably going to leave it alone for a while. I'm working on my twin lift pump setup and after that I hope it won't need much. Might experiment with the CDR plumbed into the MANN Pro Vent and see how that works, but not sure right now. I have another project that will take up my time, this time a pickup truck! No its not a Diesel, not even a GM.

MiniPU-002-070411.jpg

Its a Mini Pickup! I have been looking for quite a while for a pickup, and this one is really not too bad. Its hard to find a good pickup and this one only needs everything, but fortunately I have most everything! It will have a nice 1380cc engine, modified suspension, brakes, more than I can mention. So here I go again!
 
A VW diesel could go in the Mini truck :agreed::thumbsup:
A guy I used to work with had a Thames delivery truck with a 350 chevy in it:eek::eek:uncontrolable:nonod:
 
Excellent post! I hope that when the time comes, I will have the opportunity to install an AMG engine!

Do you have any good directions on doing the motor mounts? I STILL haven't gotten around to doing mine. I purchased a set from NAPA. They look decent.

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 
TurboTahoe said:
Excellent post! I hope that when the time comes, I will have the opportunity to install an AMG engine!

Do you have any good directions on doing the motor mounts? I STILL haven't gotten around to doing mine. I purchased a set from NAPA. They look decent.

Sincerely,

Rob :)
Click to expand...

I can say its a pig of a job. I did one side at a time. There is a bolt that runs front to rear through the mount and the plate that bolts to the engine and 3 bolts that attach the mount to the frame. I jacked up the engine using a large block of wood under the oil pan. Remove the long bolt and then the 3 bolts. The 3 bolts have nuts and there isn’t a lot of room to swing a wrench. You pretty much have to get to everything from underneath. Once you have the bolts out, you can jack up the engine enough to get the mount out and the new one in. Be careful not to pinch anything when you raise the engine. Once its in, then just reverse the removal. Repeat on the other side and you are done. Plan a full day but it shouldn't take that long.
 
bk95td said:
A VW diesel could go in the Mini truck :agreed::thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Maybe, but the Mini engine compartment is pretty narrow. The Mini has the gearbox under the engine, so its not real wide. I have seen a 3 cylinder Daihatsu Diesel in a Mini, so its possible to fit one. Honda VTech conversions are very common. I'm sticking with the BL A Series engine on this one. Pickups came with 850 or 1000 cc engines, I'm fitting a 1380, which is an overbored 1275. I have the block & pistons already, actually just about everything for the powerunit. There won't be many stock parts left. A 1000 had 42 HP, I'm shooting for 90-100.
 
There is a "Project Central" section here now. You can post any type car/truck projects. I'm pretty shure others besides myself would like to watch your build:hurray::hurray:
 
bobbiemartin said:
I can say its a pig of a job. I did one side at a time. There is a bolt that runs front to rear through the mount and the plate that bolts to the engine and 3 bolts that attach the mount to the frame. I jacked up the engine using a large block of wood under the oil pan. Remove the long bolt and then the 3 bolts. The 3 bolts have nuts and there isn’t a lot of room to swing a wrench. You pretty much have to get to everything from underneath. Once you have the bolts out, you can jack up the engine enough to get the mount out and the new one in. Be careful not to pinch anything when you raise the engine. Once its in, then just reverse the removal. Repeat on the other side and you are done. Plan a full day but it shouldn't take that long.
Click to expand...
I was under the impression the diff needed to be dropped to do the drivers side one but you only did pass ? Did you have like a weird vibration in drive at idle ? I think I have the same problem so you were able to do pass side mount without dropping the diff right ? I think that is what is shot on mine as well.There was a thread here somewhere about using polyurethane ones from a gasser. If you are referring to who I think you are with the injs, he sells crap and nothing but crap.
 
Acesneights1 said:
I was under the impression the diff needed to be dropped to do the drivers side one but you only did pass ? Did you have like a weird vibration in drive at idle ? I think I have the same problem so you were able to do pass side mount without dropping the diff right ? I think that is what is shot on mine as well.There was a thread here somewhere about using polyurethane ones from a gasser. If you are referring to who I think you are with the injs, he sells crap and nothing but crap.
Click to expand...

diff needs to be dropped only if you have one!!

bobbiemartin has a 2wd....
 
Acesneights1 said:
I was under the impression the diff needed to be dropped to do the drivers side one but you only did pass ? Did you have like a weird vibration in drive at idle ? I think I have the same problem so you were able to do pass side mount without dropping the diff right ? I think that is what is shot on mine as well.There was a thread here somewhere about using polyurethane ones from a gasser. If you are referring to who I think you are with the injs, he sells crap and nothing but crap.
Click to expand...

It did vibrate at idle, seems a bit better now. From what I read, the poly mounts transmit a fair amount of vibration into the truck, so I didn't want to use them.

As you know, I don't have a diff in the front of the Suburban, but the Mini does!
 
I've used the energy suspension poly motor mounts and tranny mounts with no problems at all. You have to be shure to use real "GM" shells.
 
Snap, I thought GM discontinued there mounts, oh well I got some poly's now that should last awhile.

I bought the best ones Oriely's and Bumper to Bumper had. Opened them up, they were the same mount just in different boxes. What was sad is these POS mounts were made in the good ol USA. You could flex the rubber by hand. I thought they should still be better than my 18 year old mounts, wrong, they prolly would be fine for a V6, but thats about it.

I sat my 5.9 cummins on them any way, well thats not gonna work, they settled about an inch.

I ordered some energy suspension mounts for a 1993 gasser. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-1121R I read all the horror stories of the poly's not fitting the diesel shells, so I tried to find some gasser shells, no luck at the local salvage yard.

So I tried my 1993 2wd diesel shells anyway, the poly mounts fit like a glove, only had to compress them about a 1/4". I cleaned the shells the best I could, sprayed some silicone grease on the mounts, put the bolts through the halves, compresses the halves in the vice and tightened the bolts, then welded them together where the rivets were. Only took about 30 min.

Didn't mean to hijack, just thought it would help someone out that had a 2wd truck.

Kenny, what p/n mount did you use? Tell us how they work on your 4x4 shells.
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Seems there are 2 different P/N#s for the poly mount inserts 3.1116G and 3.1121R..........any input is appreciated.

http://www.kennedydiesel.com/motormountmods.cfm

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...00-miles-later&p=357925&viewfull=1#post357925
Click to expand...

I ran both with the 6.5, and I HATED both of them. The ones KENNEDY uses fit REALLY loose in the clam shells, and allowed teh engine to idle smoothly but would rock all over the place under power and shake when I would hit ab ump or something. The ones for a gasser will NOT fit directly into an origanal 6.5 clamshell unless you crush them putting them in. A diesel clamshell housing is just over an 1/8" shorter and the sides of the gasser inserts just wouldn't let me pull it together easily. I trimmed an 1/8" off teh top and bottom though and they dropped in. The problem with them was they are meant for a gasser and the idle was ROUGH to say the least. They had no give to them to speak of at an idle, so every little skip or firing of the piston was felt in your teeth. They were smooth as silk going down teh road though. I put them into a gasser and they were smooth as silk in it. And I see GM quit using the CANADA made mounts and went to the crapermarket CHina builts.
 
So you did your Motor Mounts "3" times.....Used both poly inserts and finally decided to go with the "Made in China" mounts they sell at the dealer?

GM P/N number for both sides are the same (for 2 wheel drive, 2X4)....Correct?

Well that about seals the deal for me, OEM/China Mounts it will be......Your a Maniac!! I can't believe you did mounts 3 times.....How much time between each swap, did you give it a little time to get use to the feel, or did you know right away?
 
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