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Starter bolt size

A piece of wire about six or so inches long, bent the end one inch at a 90 degree angle, see if it will poke into the hole where the bracket fits to the starter. If it does then install a bolt, if the bracket fits right up to the beck of the starter.
If the bracket seems to want to hang out a ways to be parallel with the back of the starter then a few small washers Might be required between the back of the starter and the bracket.
Most likely the stud had a hex midway to allow for tightening it to the starter, why I suggest seeing if the bracket hangs parallel to the back of the starter. Bracket might have been designed to be properly positioned when it is against something as thick as that hex on the stud.
 
Okay this may sound like a dumb question maybe not.... And I'm going to post a picture after this so youll understand why I'm asking.... It's been getting down around zero at night time here but usually not anything lower than that... Usually I plug the truck in when I get home in the evening and it's plugged in until the next day when I decide to go somewhere... Not blaming this all on keeping the truck warm but I just got a electric bill for $388... We heat would nat gas but we do have an electric hot water tank... I know the truck heater isn't the whole problem but how long do I actually have to have it plugged in before I start it... As in can I leave it unplugged and just plug it in an hour or so before I need it?
 
Our biggest change in our electric bill is in the winter, some from the pumps for the in floor heat some from plugging in the vehicles. Don't usually plug in anything until it gets closer to zero. With my dual block heaters it usually only takes an hour unless it's really cold. I have used timers before.....
 
10 kW of energy can be obtained from one liter of diese, from one gallon 37kw. Knowing the price of a diesel, you can calculate how much one kilowatt from diesel. If you only need heat, have several ways. For example, use a Webasto heater or a similar, liquid or air heater. My garage is heated with a Chinese air heater. at maximum power, it consumes 250 grams diesel per hour. at a minimum of 100 grams per hour. it is about twice cheaper than heating with electricity. such a heater costs $ 100, about the same as an electric heater.
To heat the engine, there are also heaters built into the cooling system. They heat up very quickly. the power of 5 kilowatts is 10 times more than the heater built into the unit.
 
I have been looking into these chinese diesel air heaters for the house to heat rooms, also looking at one as a coolant circulation block heater to have on a remote temp sensing thingy. having one on the truck would allot me to have a block heater while it's parked at work or somewhere there is no access to electricity.

our electric bill is usually in the 4-500's year round due to not having central ac or heat.

I recently bought a buddy propane heater and since we already use a propane heater in our living room, they really have helped cut down on electric use in the winter. I also want to look at the possibility of rigging up one of these diesel powered water heaters to replace our electric water heater in the house. I read somewhere that the ones on boats are capable of producing up to 175 deg hot water. that is much more than enough heat for a shower! I could easily plumb one in to circulate water in a hot water heater tank and disable the electric elements but I have no idea if they can handle the 60 psi water pressure.

my plan is doing this sort of setup when I can afford to invest into a camper trailer. I want to make it as self sufficient as possible or as close as possible to have it operate normally off grid!
 
View attachment 71688
I have seen some youtube videos on these, it seems that the 8kw and 5kw are one in the same unit, but only the settings in the controller. they also show one that has two other ports by the exhaust that are for water.

on the ones made strictly for water heating, I have been thinking in my head on the flow of coolant in the block if a circulation pump was to be tee'd into the heater core circuit. as it it now with the single stat setup (not sure about the dual setup) the flow would go through the heater core in the cab, but be forced mostly through the passenger head, some would also be forced through the drivers head also due to the block off plate in the t-stat being closed. I think it would do fine to keep the block warm enough to eliminate cold starts in low temps. the trick is to make sure that when the engine is running and the circulation pump is off, that the engine would still flow through as to not block off flow. I think this would be a trial n error run to find out.
 
Just got our utility bill yesterday. 😵‍💫😖😩
From last winter it is up $100.00.
Our furnace is natural gas and lights electric. Thats now $300.00 for utilities. Also, that is on the balanced budget billing, does not vary much summer to winter.
Of course though, that is keeping the garage at about 70 degrees, it is 28 foot X 28 foot and 10 foot ceilings. The house is about 950 sq ft and a vaulted ceiling on 1/2 and a loft on the other half.
There is an attic ladder folded up, to get into the loft/reloading room and I keep the vents in that portion closed off.
The truck with its block heater is plugged in 24/7 and it seldom moves and if it does not for any extended time period.
I guess we have been fortunate that our utility bill has been as low as it has been for so many years.
 
Oh and the stud in the starter is just a regular stud , no hex or shoulder
I believe that depends also. From my experience the studs were not standard.

We usually had a 20 amp timer. Set for 2 hours before we thought we would be starting the vehicle.

I would.not run an Autozone starter unless it was Powermaster or Gear master. I can never remember the name.

When attaching and removing stuff from the block. I plug the.block heater in before torturing fasteners
 
I didn't buy an AutoZone starter... I just had them get one out so I could see what size bolt it was... On account of our power bill I love the truck unplugged last night and this morning I plugged it in about 45 minutes before we had to leave and she started just fine
 
If the starter bolt holes were enlarged, you may need to bush the starter bolts to augment the knurled bolts. The slop if the bolts are not tight in the holes will be problematic. Easy enough to check with just the bolts, before the starter is going in.
 
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