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setup for 26,000gcvw on a 6.5

thats what i am thinking.. or hopeing..
volt drops(noticable needle movement) when lights, blower fan, random decels glow plugs(~4v when they kick on while running) turn on. with 100a alt and two brand new 800cca bats.. head lights are some what 'dim' as well. if not i will run new grounds to the battery
 
You might want to consider swapping the CS130 alt for a CS144 140 amp alt. Since your alt is on the pass side I'm not sure what has to be done to put the CS144 in there. On the earlier years like mine the CS144 swap requires a different/modified rear mount. I'm definitely satisfied with the CS144 swap. It does a better job of keeping the batts charged and seems to start charging at lower RPMs.

Don
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
I hope you got the "Glow Plug Harness" as well..........The craftsmanship and materials are 2nd to NONE!
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no i did not.. harnes is nice and plyable and in very good condition. did recieve and install the bat cables... very nice work! starts easier and picked up a .75v on the dash gauage.. did not help the running lights in the back of the truck though :( nice not having a bed it will make it relitivly easy to find the problem..
finally got my turbo down pipe and one section of 4" exhaust on the flange rubs the frame.. (thicker frame/ rear mount on the leaf spring are with in 1/2" or less from each other) had the cross over pipe already installed.. notice nice throttle response.. milage as been improving as well 13 when i first got it.. 15 with fill up today.. no tune or injectors done yet..

kuaffmen trailers called said trailer is ready for pickup.. so i am driving down to lexington sunday and taking delivery of the trailer monday am. still need to get saftey chains D hooks installed and hopefully fenders as well.
 
Sounds like you are making good head way!

Exhaust clearance is a real PITA. My 06's 5in diamond eye barely squeezes through with the air bags, bale bumper, and B&W hitch.

When I got my bumper installed they took the tail pipe and muffler delete loose to install their brakets and did a piss poor job realigning it all. I just redid everything and cam up with 1" of clearance from everything.
 
 
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I think the extra oil cooler is a good idea.

Any idea what tranny temps were? Might need to beef up the cooling system for that too?
 
4000/6600/15700 total 264000 rounded to the nearest 100lb truck is 13800lb,
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So the truck is running just a wee bit over spec......If I'm understanding this whole GCVW......The GVWR for the 3500HD is 15,000 LBS..........and your at 15,700?

Or is it actually under GVWR at 13,800?
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
So the truck is running just a wee bit over spec......If I'm understanding this whole GCVW......The GVWR for the 3500HD is 15,000 LBS..........and your at 15,700?

Or is it actually under GVWR at 13,800?
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actual wieght per cat scale ticket.. since i couldnt remember when i posted.
steer axle 4080lb
drive axle 66400lb
trailer axles 15700lb
GCVW 26420lb
the dually had 10600lb on it, the trailer had 15700 on its axles
trailer as 8000lb axle, springs, brakes etc
the dump truck weighs 13800lb or cargo weight
that make sense now?

got shocks replaces
my twist to FTB mod
still need to get tranny line and pinion seal done and cargo box brakets made
pics pressure guage tap is at the inlet to the IP routed the line up and over under the LP line for the AC

[URL="http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/563992_3300291739699_1040072946_3102496_1003398639_n.jpg"]

idle pressure is at 5psi and going down the road at 3.5 psi not sure if that is good or not yet.. dont know where the 6-9psi is take at(before/after) fuel filter
 
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Excellent updates on getting the right power to the wheels and keeping the heat under control. To me, the powertrain is a key part of speed control and this thread looks like a good place to push a question. Am on the hunt for how to upgrade the Burb to half of what malibu795 is pulling and found an interesting statement / comment about the 4L80E (which I presume is in his rig too):

“The [4l80e] TCC unlocks on decel because of the hollow input shaft - the shaft survives hi-torque application because of soft-apply, and the unlock prevents reverse-torque distress, which has resulted in shaft-breakage in hd service”

To add to the engine braking limitations, am also seeing where (while some folks use them) exhaust brakes do not play well with hydraulic lifters in the 6.5 (lifter jacking). The best speed control option I am finding is to get TCC lock-up via ECM tunes and possibly aftermarket controls (ex: BD), but is the tranny’s input shaft really the weak link? Thoughts / mods? Are there weight thresholds (from experience) where just TCC lock-up is OK without worrying about the tranny coming lose? Am I even on-base or at least the ballpark?

And, Yes, I ‘get-it’ that brakes cost a *lot* less than a transmission, but am personally grateful for my 7.3 PSD’s manual transmission when I lost the RV brakes (8K#) coming down a 5 - 6% hill, the engine handled the push, and I only used light braking from the truck as we entered switch-backs just to drop a little speed and build a safety margin. So, am looking to build the same comfort factor with the Burb.
 
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