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setup for 26,000gcvw on a 6.5

The center of my ball is approximately 36" from ground (have 150 ish lbs dispersed in bed right now). My truck squats a couple of inches further when trailer on it especially loaded. Once loaded it might be about 31 inches or lower maybe. Next time I hook it up will try and check.

Just for reference the inner extension of goosneck sticks out about 19.5" from very bottom of hitch to telescoping outer sleeve of gooseneck adjustment. It is 27" from bottom of hitch to C channel of trailer gooseneck frame.

Those screws I meantioned locking the inner sleeve probably just lock adjustment and can't support any load as they are at bottom of outer housing and have no leverage to stop any play forward / rear.
 
the orignal jam nut was on the corner shoving ina diagaonal direction.. when that broke i took some 1/4" plate and two 5/8-11 grade 8 welded grade 5 nuts on the plate then welded the plate to the neck with corisponding wholes. i welded the plate on the front side of then coupler pulled then breakaway box ideled thent ruck forward agains the traker brakes then set then bolts
 
I was at a truck stop filling up today and at the next pump was a 3/4 ton truck pulling a Horton equipment special trailer. The trailer looked nice and beefy with large channel, long gussets, and short round coupler. I asked if he experienced any front to rear bucking and he said yeah some. I asked if he thought it was spring wrap fighting with trailer weight and he did not really say yes or no but said he sold a coupler that minimized it. He was hauling someone elses trailer of course w/o the attachment.

sphitch dot com. or google Star Performance hitch.

Anyway he said out west they call it trailer chucking. Said the absorbing coupler reduced it and made brakes smoother too. Said it made it smooth going over rail road crossings etc.

Thought I'd pass it along for info. I like the idea of it absorbing shock loads and taking the fatigue away from load, truck, and trailer.

Anyone seen or used one or something similar and what were the results and your recommendations?
 
wrapping up my fuel filter setup been useing the stock GM for f/w sep and the bf7587 as primary fillter..with a service interval on a C15 about 25,000 miles... im looking at changing them every 75k or so

wix 24770 (30.00 through summit) no peecock(1/8"npt) did put one on to bleed the filter but not need on a dmax with electric pump
baldwin BF7587 or wix 33674 primary fuel filter (18.00 summitracing)
baldwin BF1259 or wix 33406 w/f secondary (20.00 summitracing)
1/2" npt by 3/8" barb and 1/2"npt by 1/2" barb couplers
thanks for the info..
here is how my neck was setup from the factory
http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/563103_3387920410361_806684074_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/578108_10100301169760391_1080734539_n.jpg
this is what is looks like now.. and there is no bucking/chucking etc
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/404572_4419614482068_1527665924_n.jpg
 
Make me scared to think of what my LBZ could do. Looking foward to your solution to the problem.

How many HP would you guess you were running? What ECT, EGT, and boost did you run? Just trying to see what no to do with my truck.
 
sucks to hear that! any idea what caused it?

I take it you are boring all of them .020 over and putting 8 of these new pistons in, or just fixing the bad one?
 
ak diesel driver said:
that sucks. hard to make $ when that happens
Click to expand...
yes especially this time of year got less then 4 weeks to do anything...
tanman_2006 said:
Make me scared to think of what my LBZ could do. Looking foward to your solution to the problem.

How many HP would you guess you were running? What ECT, EGT, and boost did you run? Just trying to see what no to do with my truck.
Click to expand...

4.63 gears 32.7" tires is 2600 rpm @70. .75 od (4l85E tranny)
i was running 65 which is ~2400rpm
ECT normal to cold at 185-190*
boost 8-10psi normal for a high sail load... low sail is 5-8psi at same speed
timing ~8-9* at cruise
havent been able to get an EGT to work reliably autometer 1600 or a 2000
i find it very hard to believe that the engine at 250hp would run hotter then a 360hp LBZ engines
this was the load.. rolling weight was 23k load is 7(H)x7(W)x8(L) and tarped.
shreadder drum from domtar paper company
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/178960_4538342490194_816702289_n.jpg
 
malibu795 said:
4.63 gears 32.7" tires is 2600 rpm @70. .75 od (4l85E tranny)
i was running 65 which is ~2400rpm
ECT normal to cold at 185-190*
boost 8-10psi normal for a high sail load... low sail is 5-8psi at same speed
timing ~8-9* at cruise
havent been able to get an EGT to work reliably autometer 1600 or a 2000
i find it very hard to believe that the engine at 250hp would run hotter then a 360hp LBZ engines
this was the load.. rolling weight was 23k load is 7(H)x7(W)x8(L) and tarped.
shreadder drum from domtar paper company
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/178960_4538342490194_816702289_n.jpg
Click to expand...

I thought yours was detuned and it surpised me to here it blew a piston. Hope mine holds together, I'm over 200K now.
 
GM Guy said:
sucks to hear that! any idea what caused it?

I take it you are boring all of them .020 over and putting 8 of these new pistons in, or just fixing the bad one?
Click to expand...

one or combo of following 2 things
casting flaw
oil temp

yes .020 over all with mahle cast piston with finger bowls no valve relief and ~17:1 c/r
 
My 6.5 would get up to 1300* and climb if I let it pulling a 18k trailer and I wasn't paying attention. Gcw 24.2k pulled just like it is in my sig no problems for 15k miles then blew a head gasket, 13'6"h 53'l load on a windy day pushed it too hard. pulled campers for another 25k miles with head gasket problem and parked it just recently due to hard starting. Back to driving semi until I get my 06 F-450 with the sleeper back on the road.
 
Sorry it's been a long time since I've had time to get on DTR but seeing how hauling is my career ill throw my 2 cents in. I pulled, wore out 2 Kaufman trailers in 2 years. 102/53 wedge and lo-pro. Pure junk IMHO, have about a 150k mile life expectancy. owned a PJ 102/25 deckover gooseneck and it pulled like a dream. Looked just as good when I sold it as it did when I picked it up from the dealer. Big Tex I've heard makes nice trailers as well, my current trailer is a home made 102/53 step deck I pull behind my F-450 and its alright. 2 8.5k torsion axles disk brake electric over hydraulic, it's the only way to go when pulling commercially with a medium duty truck.
 
Deere Freek said:
Sorry it's been a long time since I've had time to get on DTR but seeing how hauling is my career ill throw my 2 cents in. I pulled, wore out 2 Kaufman trailers in 2 years. 102/53 wedge and lo-pro. Pure junk IMHO, have about a 150k mile life expectancy. owned a PJ 102/25 deckover gooseneck and it pulled like a dream. Looked just as good when I sold it as it did when I picked it up from the dealer. Big Tex I've heard makes nice trailers as well, my current trailer is a home made 102/53 step deck I pull behind my F-450 and its alright. 2 8.5k torsion axles disk brake electric over hydraulic, it's the only way to go when pulling commercially with a medium duty truck.
Click to expand...

what wore out on your kaufmen? im looking are replaceing the lipperts this spring, the 45k brakelife from their 7/8k hybrid sucks

BTW i lost the 6.5 back in april. this is 06 LBZ dmax
 
The expanded metal decks are junk, frame bends and cracks, axles and brakes needed work every 15k miles from the factory, wiring never lasted more than a winter because they never sealed anything, just used scotch connectors, paint was like they never used primer, gave a 5 year old a rattle can and said have at it. Over time (5 years) the frame will rot from the inside out because of the tube steel.

My PJ was I-beam construction, powder coat paint, all the connections were sealed, water tight, LED lights from the factory, 8k dexter axles with greaseable suspension. Just happier with it overall. The trailer I tow now is basically the same design as the pj but longer trailer and dovetail.
 
Deere Freek said:
The expanded metal decks are junk, frame bends and cracks, axles and brakes needed work every 15k miles from the factory, wiring never lasted more than a winter because they never sealed anything, just used scotch connectors, paint was like they never used primer, gave a 5 year old a rattle can and said have at it. Over time (5 years) the frame will rot from the inside out because of the tube steel.

My PJ was I-beam construction, powder coat paint, all the connections were sealed, water tight, LED lights from the factory, 8k dexter axles with greaseable suspension. Just happier with it overall. The trailer I tow now is basically the same design as the pj but longer trailer and dovetail.
Click to expand...

this is what i picked up in march of this year. the neck/coupler has been redone due to haveing to have it fully extend it started riping the lower welds... and they put 5"x3/8" plate under the I-beam and daimond plated then areas where the running gear sub frame is welded on.. wireing is all sealed and LED on mine. i dont like the maintaince interval of the grease axle and non adjusting brakes.. basicly i do everything when i change the oil every 10k or 5-6 weeks
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/485203_3286774121767_1040072946_3098270_296148031_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/404572_4419614482068_1527665924_n.jpg
 
Does your new truck have a sleeper? I just got a new phone, don't have any pics of my current rig yet. I'd like to catch up with you sometime to compare trucks sometime if possible
 
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