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Second go Around

I'm working on a idea different than using the o-ring at the top where their is still threads..

My idea is to use a o-ring between the block & head where their are no threads on the stud and will be squeezed between the block & head for a total seal... I haven't decided weather to have a o-ring grove in the block & head and the gasket would be between them or one o-ring... I'm leaning towards 2 o-rings for now...

The o-ring at the top doesn't seem like a good seal when it's sitting on threads...
 
Will L. said:
The tty bolts even use a sealer on the bolt head flange though. GM new some gets past the theads, thats why they do it.
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That is why I’m thinkin about the oring seal idea. Just thinking how hot does the head surface get and what is that oring going to withstand.

I agree 100% seal at the threads is what is really desired. I want some crap that seals up nuclear power plant tubs, ya know? Haha
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I may use a little bit of Permatex red gasket silicon under the stud nut. Got me thinking you did.
 
@NVW you would need sealer under nut face and thread to nut in theory.

Arp uses what works and is affordable. I am not looking for “affordable” thread sealer. Impervious is the word that comes to mind.

On our homemade studs we used sealer on bottom of threads and blue loctite up above figuring one seal the other stops movement. Chances are the blue is what did both after hearing everyone else.

@WarWagon You stand alone having tried red afaik. I get why you did, been that wealthy myself many times! But got me to thinking- incased in molten lead?
Red is strong, but if I could get in there with a tig, I would.

I am not looking to reuse head studs in my next build. Honestly want it to be my last build for the street. And if it lets go, the insurance company might own a 10,000# charcoal pile. Haha.

ARP, Milodon, etc studs dont just leak for 6.5. I have seen them leak in every application and if you research a bit you will find complaints/ questions on a fix for about every engine out there. “Do it right” is most common answer, but I did it the same way on each of my engines and occasionally had one seap. Mine were short term racing use, so no biggie. Spend time in the pits at the dragstrip and you’d find it isn’t uncommon.

@Twisted Steel Performance
This idea has been used with sucess on the track on various engines. Oring below headgasket, but usually has orings around cylinders also and a copper headgasket. I have given this consideration as well. I didn’t think long about oringing the block and still using the affordable head gaskets. Kinda figured once that expense is there might as well go all the way. You have me thinkin on that option.
 
@Will L. , I'm working with my CNC shop designing a cutter for this that would cut every bolt hole the same consistently. I am still working on what the best "type" of material for the ring & shape would be... I'm leaning towards a ring above & below the head gasket for a "sandwich" ...
 
@Will L. ARP is NOT the go to place for sealing answers. Their sealer SUCKS! ARP has revised their directions since 2011 due to wet holes on 6.2 6.5's leaking. Because of sites like this others saved me misery with a lock tight as a sealer suggestions contrary to the ARP instructions of the day, 2011.

Tightening the stud into the block is my additional suggestion.

Maybe there is a better thread sealer out there.

Interesting the top seal of GM head bolts. I thought it was for other things like making a mess on install.

I was $2000.00 short of buying a 12v Cummins after we hit the Elk. It would have been a different story... red was the end of our budget on the rebuild before it went on to hit the Elk 7000 miles and 3 weeks later. The heads have been off this engine 3 times at least and none due to gaskets or coolant.
 
Yeah arp’s theory on sealer has changed so many times... they make great studs & nuts, and just resale thread sealer.

Regular head gaskets with orings... have to think on that. Seems ok, but usually metal on orings is desired. At first I pictured enlarging the hole in the headgasket to clear an oring, and recessing only one side and only one oring. Compressing the oring against a wearable material seams about like oring against threads. Obviously get it to seal new, just wonder about long term.
What about chamfering block hole for oring to sit in and compress against stud shoulder instead of thread like the head oring mod does?
 
It's coming together, should have it in this week if time allows. Completely forgot to put red gasket sealer under the washers on the studs until I had it torqued. I was very liberal with the Blue Loctiite. Put some in the holes and 4 strips on the stud threads.

I had to ream the cam bearings on this build like the last one.
 

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I put new glows and injectors from Leroy Diesel, also got an ATT rebuild kit from Leroy. The Inj. all popped very close to each other. Thanks Leroy.

There is something a bit different with this engine, I wonder if anyone noticed in the pics?

All the bearings were good except the rods, you could see the brass. They were all changed anyway.
 
6-8 years ago I bought a centrifuge, I'm going to set it in the drivers valve cover. I cut the stub off a CDR valve and welded it to a plate that will bolt to the centrifuge. I plan on a ball valve and gauge in the line. If it don't work at least I can shut the oil flow off.
 
Quite a few years ago bison got hold of a bunch of DS4 5521 IP's, I got the first one he sold. I thought I would take a chance on it as mine is a 5067 and has 450k km on it. bison made good:), he thought later I may have stole it, as it turns out I didn't, but I still have parts.

So I put my old one back on and discovered there is a leak from the weep hole, did I mention I'm getting quite good at swapping IP's?

I phoned an injection shop in Red Deer AB. and a rebuilt is $1495 cnd. I still have another 5067 and a 5521 but only had each truck run for a minute. So I rebuilt my ATT while I thought on it. I am still not sure where I plan to go. This is one truck I depend on.
 
I decided to buy a new one, 2 year warranty and good for low sulfur diesel. Only thing is it came with a grey stanadyne PMD. I guess I will have to get a new extension.
 

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