Rings and bearings while I have the engine out?

[Will L.]

Yes- the converter slides out easy and is annoying to get in half the time.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Do not force it in. It should slide in easily once it gets lined up. Been many ruined trannies from this happening

 

[MrMarty51]

Yup, a voice from an experienced front pump destroyer.
Many many years ago, thought I needed to pull the enjun against the transmixer with bolts, even found a couple of bolts that was long enough.
That didnt work out so well.
When the transmission man came by my house I pointed out that the TC would not fit alla the way back, his reply, how hard did You force it ? Told Him it was a tough pull.
I pulled the TC from the trans, he instructed me to pull the front cover, yup he said, gonna take a new pump. He said the cover was still good.
He was an older gentleman and I always appreciated when He would stop over.
Even times when I wasnt doing transmissions, he once told me that I had the most interesting building in town.
I was always making something to make something else work.

 

[mjmmjm]

Thanks, everyone. You saved me from disaster for sure.

 

[mjmmjm]

I took the engine out, took out the converter, reinstalled it (all 3 ledges), and measured 1.02+" clearance from bell housing mating surface to bolt holes face. Reinstalled the engine and still have 1/4" gap between bell housing and block. Noting's binding: I can easily spin the converter with one finger (the hub is started into the flex plate recess), and the gap is all the way around the mating surfaces. I can't remember if the trans rested back that much when I removed the trans-to-block bolts originally or not. Could the driveline have slid back that much when I pulled the engine, like the guys who installed my rebuilt trans had to pull it forward that much to bolt it all up?

 

[ak diesel driver]

Even if the drive train moved you should be able to slide the torque converter forward to meet the flexplate. And everything right there. Make sure the torque converter hub is going into the flexplate correctly

 

[mjmmjm]

Got it situated. Thanks.

What are these two brackets? This one attached to the front of the driver side engine mount. I don't know what attaches to it:





And I don't know where this one bolts up and what lines go into it:

 

[ak diesel driver]

I think those are the brackets that holds the transmission lines

 

[jrsavoie]

I think those are the brackets that holds the transmission lines

I think transmission lines would be passenger side.

To me the first bracket looks like it's for the engine oil cooler lines.

On at least one of my vehicles, there was a bracket for the engine oil cooler lines at or near the front of the engine mount

I'm guessing the 2nd bracket goes about the same place on the other side for the transmission lines

 

[MrMarty51]

Do You have the starter and heat shield installed ?
Top bracket almost looks like the one that bolts to the back of the bell housing then through the heat shield.
But if You have the heat shield bracket figured out then that top bracket will be as AK Dieseldriver claims it to be.

 

[Glagulator]

First bracket in diagram.
Second bracket is part of the rear heat lines where they get close to the frame
behind front tire.

 

[MrMarty51]

First bracket in diagram.
Second bracket is part of the rear heat lines where they get close to the frame
behind front tire.

View attachment 95211

Ooooh yeah, I can see that now.

 

[mjmmjm]

All set with the brackets. Thanks. I'm looking at my trans cooler lines now. The top fitting that goes into the side of the radiator, and the 2 lines that go into the separate cooler in front of the radiator. Doesn't look like they get o-rings. Can anyone confirm? I don't remember any o-rings coming off during disassembly, but I did find one jammed up inside one of the ports, past the port itself.






The second photo shows one of the lines that go into the separate front cooler - the other line looks just like it.

 

[Will L.]

No orings. No pipe tape or dope. Clean threads and snug it up. That is a flare fitting. It seals by simple compressive force.

 

[mjmmjm]

Thanks, Will. Hoping to button it up and get it started tomorrow. It's been a long trek.

 

[mjmmjm]

I got it started and turned it off after it idled fine for 2 minutes. Checked for leaks and started it up for half a minute a couple more times while chasing down a power steering leak. Then it wouldn't run again (really hard start then immediately die). Kept trying and got it to start a couple times, but it stalled when I took my foot off the pedal. Good flow with no air bubbles from the lift pump. Doesn't seem to be the lift pump relay: same bad behavior running it with the terminals jumpered. Tried a brand new PMD, no change. New tank and sender; the lines seemed fine. I replaced the injection pump with a Pensacola reman before I put the engine back in. The new pump was rotated very close to how the old one was, but I can't check timing if it won't keep running. Since it idles fine before it's warm (when the ECU would be advancing the timing, right?), and then stalls after it's warm and I'm trying to drive it, I wonder if the timing is too retarded. I rocked the pump 1 mm toward the driver's side, but it's still stalling when warm. I'm going to go another mm tomorrow. Anyone have the same experience?

 

[mjmmjm]

Just for kicks, I tried the time set in the Tech 2. The couple of times I tried, it stalled right away: the manual says to advance the timing, if that happens. I'm hoping it's only the timing.

 

[MrMarty51]

If You tripped the timing reset, many times the engine will die.
Mine did that too, even knowing that will happen it scared the crap out of Me.
I restarted the engine then it was just fine after that.
Did another timing reset to confirm the numbers and it was within specs.