Rings and bearings while I have the engine out?

[mjmmjm]

Thanks, Will. The big question for me is whether it is necessary to place the engine before going for the final torque. It'll be a bear to try to get at the bolts and nuts in order to do that once the engine's in the bay.

 

[MrMarty51]

Thanks, Will. The big question for me is whether it is necessary to place the engine before going for the final torque. It'll be a bear to try to get at the bolts and nuts in order to do that once the engine's in the bay.

Practice.
Drill several holes in a plate of steel. About 3/8ths inch thick should be good enough.
Figure the diameter of the bolts in question and the thread count.
Tap the holes. Use bolts of the same hardness as what the factory used.
Place a hard washer under the bolt head.
Torque the bolts to whats specified.
Now Use Your ratchet and put pressure on the bolts into a tightening fashion.
Get a feel for how much pressure you need to apply to get the socket/bolt to budge.
That should give You a pretty good feel for the required force it takes to turn that many Ft LBS of torque.

 

[mjmmjm]

Good morning. I'm about to get my injectors back from the shop (new nozzles). The tech said they had a lot of water in them. I know my tank was leaking and am replacing it now - I'll flush the whole system. What's a good way to clean out the pump? I read somewhere that a gallon of ATF would do it? Any other ideas? What concentration?

Also, does anyone have a (conservative) maximum boost number I can set my DIY turbo master at? I don't think overboost was what caused the blown head gasket, but I want to make sure I stay out of the danger zone. Other than the turbo master, main studs, and out-of-tank fuel filter, this is a stock setup, including head bolts (maybe I should've paid the extra for studs).

 

[ak diesel driver]

12

 

[mjmmjm]

Good, thanks. That's where I have it set.