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Rings and bearings while I have the engine out?

Many years ago, at the DOT, the service/night shift person hated his job and everyone around him. There was also a night road crew person working the same shift and with fair weather he too was hanging in the shop.
I had a SBC engine tore down, cleaned up and ready to go back together with all the components laid out on the work bench.
Came back to work the next day, laid the block side bearings in position, set the crank shaft into the block and give it a bit of a turn.
One of them @ss holes had taken the electronic scribing tool from the shop supers desk and scribed a line across one of the rod bearing journals on the crank shaft.
Had quite a discussion with the shop super and the field chief about this, field chief asked if there was some way to run it with that mar across the journal. YUP.
Took a fine tooth file and smoothed off the high spots.
A piece of 220 grit emory cloth. Clamped a piece of steel in the vice in a verticle fashion and using some pulling pressure drug the emory over the edge of that piece of steel, knocking off the sharp grit of the emory cloth.
Give the business side of the emory cloth a shot of oil and polished the journal with that piece of emory cloth.
I have always polished crank shafts using that emory cloth method as taught to Me by a very old time mechanic.
Unless the crank shaft has bad grooves around it, if it were mine, thats exactly what I would do to this cranking shaft too.
You will be surprised how nice of a job You can do, and its free.
Oh, on that SBC cranking shaft, the van that that engine was for, had another 100,000 miles on it when it was sent to auction in Helena where the head of the equipment bureau is located. The engine was running just fine with no issues and not consuming oil or rods knocking.
 
I rolled out the mains and am wondering if anyone has recommendations for rod and main bearings. I'm not looking for the cheapest option.

Also, since I don't know the 6.5 production history, I'll ask about my heads. I have the International Optimizer block dated 2003. Was International making the heads then too or just the blocks? I have the diamond pre-cups, but, apart from that, I don't know anything about exactly what heads they are. And does it matter anyway?
 
They made the heads too- better than gm heads but still can crack between the valves from heat. This is a likely location for the combustion gas into coolant. I’m now of the opinion that any head other than p400 heads will get the brass tube insert into the steam pockets. It simply seems it is not a matter of if but when every head begins to crack there. Such a simple solution to buy a ton more miles once the cracks start.

I prefer King bearings when possible, but there are other good ones.

Again- don’t buy any yet until it’s all pulled apart & inspected. You could have a cracked block in cyl 7/8 or something still unknown.
 
And the bearings might be of varying thicknesses.
But IDK if the optimizer components were machined more accurately than the GM components.
Your crank journals might be all the same diameter between mains.
 
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