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Replacing IP on 93 6.5L have timing and installation questions

My Tstats do not have the oring seal, its a single type tstat as far as I know only the duals use an oring seal.

I got your email Im just waiting on a confirmed final list of items you want.

Thanks.
 
OK, got it all handled.

The thing I love about dealing with Leroy is that if he can't beat the price, he will tell you and tell you where there is a better price. :) that was on the hayden clutches, and Rock Auto had a good price. but, considering I usually get by with no clutch, I figured if I could find GM for less I would go that route.
I was kinda stuck on GM parts, so I called my dealer to get the exact part number, then hit ebay, and got this gem. he had it on for 99 bucks, and there was a "make offer" section, so I thought what the heck, and offered 75 and got it! :)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181312378360?item=181312378360&viewitem=&vxp=mtr




Leroy, I got the invoice paid, and e-mail seems to be working properly now.

Thanks!
 
I picked up the thick gasket and some special Permatex gycol resistant RTV especially for WPs and t-stat housings. the thick gasket is dry on both sides. the thin gasket I got a couple days ago has adhesive on one side.

As of right now, I think I will use the thick one, and lightly dress both sides with the special RTV, unless anyone has a reason to use the thin gasket instead.
 
all installed and down the road. the new t-stat made a big difference, but I never touched the a/c condenser, so it will get warm. luckily the new clutch works flawlessly, and once it hits 205, it comes online and cools it right down.

I will be tearing it apart yet again, as the t-stat housing still leaks, and I think it is distorted, as the PO used a short bolt on the pass. side thread, pulled the threads slightly, and the t-stat will wobble and not sit flat. I filed down the pulled thread, but that didnt allow it to seal. luckily I have a perfect housing off a 1993 parts engine, correct bolt and all.

For OCD reasons will be putting new t-stat and quick connect on new/used housing, and transfering the slightly used stuff to the 95 chevy bucket truck. :)

Leroy, expect another order. and also double thumbs up for finding the right t-stat! that puppy sticks out far and I am sure it is the only one that actually blocks the bypass. the engine will actually get to operating temp idling too.
the one I ordered from GM was spendy and made in Mexico, yours is German and cheaper. both are AC Delco, go figure! :) (the german one is apprently a re-packaged Motorad, never heard of the brand, but its german, so it pretty much has to be awesome)


when I changed the clutch, I spun the old one over about 10 times, THEN it free-wheeled with no resistance. apparently I screwed myself not rolling it over more than a turn or two when trying to diagnose it. that puppy is no good. The new one wont kick out for a couple minutes when cold, so it is plenty stiff. :)

Made it to Little America, Wyoming. you dont need a bull bumper on the front of your pickup when you are in hot pursuit of a Swift truck, and letting him clear the way of critters. :)
 
GM Guy said:
OK, got it all handled.

The thing I love about dealing with Leroy is that if he can't beat the price, he will tell you and tell you where there is a better price. :) that was on the hayden clutches, and Rock Auto had a good price. but, considering I usually get by with no clutch, I figured if I could find GM for less I would go that route.
I was kinda stuck on GM parts, so I called my dealer to get the exact part number, then hit ebay, and got this gem. he had it on for 99 bucks, and there was a "make offer" section, so I thought what the heck, and offered 75 and got it! :)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181312378360?item=181312378360&viewitem=&vxp=mtr




Leroy, I got the invoice paid, and e-mail seems to be working properly now.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

So you are going with a 6 blade setup on something? Something that doesn't "work hard" for sure... :rolleyes5:
 
yep, 6 blade. better than nothing, that is for sure! :)

I wont be expecting alot out of it, downshifting, slowing down, and heater use wont be out of the question, but I imagine it will be able to keep up in 90 percent of situations.
 
So does the fuel line where it goes from hard line to rubber back by the tank known to leak? I am still chasing air.

I just replaced the LP and o-rings, and started it up and let it idle, and will let it sit for .5-1 hour and see if I still have air.

Also, Leroy's Relay kit is installed! :) looks nice! at first I thought way too much wire, but factoring in body flex, and going along the top of the frame, and looping it behind the LP and coming back forward, it worked out just right.

So now I feel all special, brand new AC Delco OPS, AC Delco EP158 LP, and Leroy's Relay harness. so everything is fresh!
 
That hose or one behind FFM can get pretty nasty and cracked, especialy with BioD additives. FYI my LP bypass fitting will screw right onto the FSU supply side.
 
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