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Replacing IP on 93 6.5L have timing and installation questions

I must have gotten some of Will's military used surplus 6.2/6.5 engines. :hihi: Low miles but decent blowby...

Did they change the Optimizer or P400 rings to take the heat better? The HUMMER's cooling system with hydraulic on/off fan is night and day over the pickup cooling systems.

High heat ruins the rings quick. It is said to contribute to cracking that, of course, doesn't show up for awhile.

Ring damage is immediately clear by increased blowby. Usually loss of coolant or boiling the coolant is where you hurt the rings and can scuff a piston/cylinder. Even the Ford 7.3 IDI's rings don't like getting hot and respond with sudden increases in blowby. All it takes is one damn hot running grade to do it. Perhaps this sudden heating is more harmful than a steady high temp?


I guess your new injection pump has better power than your old one.

How old is the fan clutch? What kind of fan? Was the engine fan screaming when you were getting hot? I think you have already identified some big issues with the AC condenser and the sub-par radiator. The description of the water pump would have me changing it esp. because your trips are like mine through the middle of nowheresville. Do you get cell reception most of the time? I don't, not even with the higher powered ON-Star transmitter back when I had that on a pickup.
 
luckily I was soft pedaling it, no loss of coolant. when it got to 230 it was time to pull over. the one construction zone was just shaved pavement, so I got off into it and stopped. the other was tore up completely, so I had to stay in it.

6 blad fan, apparently inop factory clutch. heater on high. no increase in blowby.


Now, I am debating about high much I want to tear into it. I have a new set of DSG gears, but am not too giddy about pulling the whole front cover to change them.

otherwise it is Fluidampr, new WP, clutch, and fan.

debating about straightening fins on a/c condenser, or new. any recommendations on a quality condenser that fits the OEM brackets? price is a factor, but quality is the main point.
 
I usually wind up at the dealer for condensers. One aftermarket one I got had a pre-installed o tube and a bunch of white cr@p behind the tube.
The design varies, but, make sure you get the R134 condenser as it is better than the old R12 design one they still sell. Unless you are running R12...

Far as I know only the dual air burbs need new oem mounts for new thinner condensers.

Fan clutches are such an ignored limited life item... :nonod:
 
Im in the process of a couple of mods.
1. increase the size over the stock condenser to raise a/c efficenicy.
2. relocate oil cooler and trans cooler to remove that heat load from the cooling stack and increase a/c performance.

The condenser is a 35" wide one (stock is 27"ish) Im using one from a 2006 Chevy with dual air. It has the "block style" connections though, so I had to machine some fittings to adapt it back to the "oring/stock hoses" This is the largest one I could find that will hopefully still fit? There is a version of a condenser that fits trucks from 96 to 2006, but is is smaller SO! when I saw the larger one I took a gamble and ordered it. Should be here next week. Will post a new thread on it then.

The trans oil cooler relocate is going pretty well, (thinking of offering a kit) the coolers will be mounted under the cab of the truck. I'll run them without a fan and see how that go's if needed I can add a fan.
 
ac that resembles working is ok with me. :) poor mans jake brake, kick er on coming off the hill! :)

I will get a quote from the dealer and check rockauto.com

Leroy, I shot you an e-mail about buying a t-stat, and possibly a few other things.
 
also Leroy, What can you get for fan clutches?

I am thinking to get home I can buy a fan clutch for the factory system, then swap to year 2000 WP clutch and fan at a later date.

thanks!
 
I have done about 4 pumps as long as you did not spin the engine while the old pump was out and your static lines are lined up or if you can see it the circle the line the circle up on the IP with the line on the front cover you should be within a few degrees. I would also highly recommend the duramax fan and a new fan clutch. About 150 from rock auto. Might want to think about a upgraded water pump from a newer 6.5. I did this an with 10000lbs I never went above 200 degrees with the ac on.
 
I'll check email in a few. I can get the A/C Delco WP, fan clutch and Dmax fan for 2000.
 
what about the 9 blade steel? I get by with 6 blade (as long as the darn clutch engages) now, so anything would be an upgrade, so I think I will stick with the 9 blade steel.

Can you beat RA prices?
 
Cant seem to find a 9 blade steel? Im sure its atleast as much as a Dmax fan though. I can beat RA on some things.
 
I found an AC delco 9 blade on ebay for like 38 bucks or so. shipping not included IIRC.

Leroy, I will shoot you an email, I think the current plan is t-stat, fan clutch for current system, and either straighten existing fins, or get a new condensor, get the 93 home, throw the new clutch on the 95, and put the full year 2000 system on the 93.
 
Be careful of getting a used fan on Ebay, as I just ordered one last week, and it arrived with 2 bent blades. It was $35, and they just had a generic stock photo, so I didn't actually see the fan I was purchasing. The shipping box was in perfect shape, so they actually shipped it to me like this! The seller refunded my money, but now I'm still waiting for the new one I ordered to arrive. Here is a link to a the new one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/141260584046?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Here are a couple pics of the one I got a couple days ago. Very Frustrating!

Matt
 

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yep, thanks for the link bowtiebutler, that is the one I found earlier.


All,

I think I may be on to something with the t-stat gasket. my gut feeling made me throw in the crossover from a parts 93 engine with 122K on it. I took it apart, and took some calipers to the new proper GM gasket (called a second GM dealer to confirm the part number) and then to the used gasket with the spare crossover. It is 2 inch for the new one, and 2 1/4 inch for the used one.

I am sure that is not helping my issue, as laying the new gasket on the used t-stat, which appears to be the original GM one, (says USA on it), the gasket can possibly cover the bleed port "wiggler".

Leroy said he uses fel-pro gaskets ordered in at his local parts store, so I might see what I have locally, or maybe just have him throw one in my next order, I am getting from Leroy a 93 spec fan clutch to get me home, I will then move it to the 95, and put a year 2000 full cooling system (minus the dual t-stats) onto the 93.
 
just checked napa online, and supposedly the local dealer has a gasket in stock for under a buck, and it has an inside diamter of 2.25 inch. :)

I think I will go that route!


Link:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ostat-Housing-Gasket/_/R-THM1040ST_0183596159

EDIT:

I also found this: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...mostat-Housing-Gasket/_/R-FPB35271_0150261055

I imagine this one is thicker, as it has an important info about "with thermostat gasket" these newer delco t-stats seem to all have a built in rubber gasket, aka no exposed metal, so do I need this fat gasket to make it seal? maybe this is why it was seeping coolant on me, I was using the thin gasket.....
 
I never use a gasket. The oring seal takes care by itself. The rest I use "the right stuff" from permatex. Never a problem.
 
so clean it up good, and install the gasket equipped t-stat dry, torque it down and good to go?

where would my coolant leak have come from? t-stat gasket not mating evenly to the paper gasket, and the leak occuring there?

everyone else agree to put it together dry with no paper gasket?
 
Single stats need gasket and sealant. I use Goop brand adhesive. I forget the hot sauce brand, but like it I use that shit on everything :hihi:
 
so the t-stat I am ordering from you leroy, does it have the rubber seal on the outer edge?

is it OK to use the standard thickness gasket with the rubber seal equipped t-stat, or do I need the thicker one? (the second NAPA link from above, the blue fel-pro)

as far as Permatex products, which color do I need? the red high temp RTV?



the gasket has adhesive, which half do I stick it to?
 
also Leroy, post to this thread if you got my e-mail with my order, I am having troubles with my e-mail and I am not sure if it is sending.
 
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