• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Remote mount turbo thread.-progress and questions!

Ok, getting closer. I think I need to run a flex pipe, I wanted to mount the turbo to the exhaust, durr, without actually hanging the turbo on anything per say, but that got me thinking about engine movement and flex, so should I add a flex pipe and if so, before or after? Thanks.
 
I would clamp the turbo directly to the exhaust and support the turbo off some kind of support hanger from the frame that has some give or swing allowed so it can move with the engine and exhaust.

The rest of the exhaust im sure has some give in its mounting right?

Thats my 2 cents worth
 
davo727 said:
I would clamp the turbo directly to the exhaust and support the turbo off some kind of support hanger from the frame that has some give or swing allowed so it can move with the engine and exhaust.

The rest of the exhaust im sure has some give in its mounting right?

Thats my 2 cents worth
Click to expand...

Trouble with mounting it to the frame without a flex pipe, is it can't move, then things break or crack.
 
Sorry, still haven't done this yet, life got in the way as well as an injury and my tranny let go, so its now got a 89+ unit fully updated.

I ordered the outlet flange and found a wicked T3 flange that will take the 3" pipe, I'll post pics when I get them.

Oil filttings ordered.

Ordered the check valve but used this one as its rated for a higher temp, 180F is too low I feel as oil can hit over 200 deg.

# 7775K52
 
Last edited:
wrapping can lead to rust since the wrap can absorb water and hold it there along with salt. But you can ceramic coat the exhaust and then wrap it like rafedial said
 
Ix-ne on the wrap even ceramic coated pipe, I bought ceramic coat cross over, wrapped it, high temp engine painted the wrap to "seal" it from elements, and within 3 years it was rotten, my aluminized one sans wrap looks good as new 3 years later
 
I will NOT wrap, been there, got the badge er rotted exhaust pipes.

I have everything now except the HY compressor outlet pipe that no one has to sell, which I can't believe, :confused:

I'll post up pics of the T3 flange I found that takes 3 inch pipe. Have the HY outlet flange and figure I'll use 2 90 stainless elbows so they won't wear out and will align the exhaust without major modding.

Have to mod the HY wastegate can, the can has a 90 pipe that goes straight into the comp housing, so I will cut that, weld up the hole and redrill and tap for a fitting so I can run an MBC to 10 or so psi.

Still unsure where to put the EGT gauge. :confused:

Need to make the hat for the intake, then mock up the piping so I can do this one saturday. Most likely I'll do it in July as I need to tow my trailer to Portland for bike racing in 2 weeks and don't want to rush this together.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Can you tap a spot just below the turbo drive gas inlet, that is where many of the 6.5 turbos, and Dmax tap for theirs just prior to the entry into the turbo.
Click to expand...

I can put it anywhere, just not sure where. Obviously being mounted downstream, it won't read as hot as if it was closer to the engine. Also not sure with it being that far out what a safe temp is?
 
Some say best is in the crossover, my original spot was in the down pipe post turbo but I limited 300 F than recommended 1200 F @ pre turbo we use on the 6.5 , I'd say conservative you'd be okay with uncoated 6.2 NA pistons to limit @ 1100, what did Banks call the limit for the NA to turbo kit, that would be my point of reference as a safe limit for the 6.2.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Some say best is in the crossover, my original spot was in the down pipe post turbo but I limited 300 F than recommended 1200 F @ pre turbo we use on the 6.5 , I'd say conservative you'd be okay with uncoated 6.2 NA pistons to limit @ 1100, what did Banks call the limit for the NA to turbo kit, that would be my point of reference as a safe limit for the 6.2.
Click to expand...

Not sure, but 1200 seems to be the consensus. I'll put at the Flowmaster collector, that way I get a sample of both banks probably at their hottest.

I've also bumped into someone who used to do Banks kits back in the day and they'd run 15 psi all day on the 6.2's, :eek:
 
I run 20psi on my stock 6.5 turbo engine with larger exhaust of course. If I was towing long distance it might not like that, but I dont tow often.
 
buddy said:
I run 20psi on my stock 6.5 turbo engine with larger exhaust of course. If I was towing long distance it might not like that, but I dont tow often.
Click to expand...

Your forgetting, mine is a stock N/A 6.2, yours is designed for boost. :thumbsup:
 
Yeah, but whats the difference, the head gasket? Your valves are larger, so should flow better. People add a turbo onto a lot of vehicles. If something breaks you can put 6.5 heads on it :)
 
buddy said:
Yeah, but whats the difference, the head gasket? Your valves are larger, so should flow better. People add a turbo onto a lot of vehicles. If something breaks you can put 6.5 heads on it :)
Click to expand...

Head gasket is the same I believe but the compression is higher, I think you are around 18:1 we are 21/22:1 and our piston tops aren't coated. I am not sure that even matters as I run stupid boost thru my other van as do others with no coated anything and way higher EGT's than diesels.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top