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reman IP in Canada

I think its actually fuel pressure(both ways) and roller rotation against the cam that moves the piston,the Stepper just controls via shaft and that flappy thingy the directional valve in the piston.
 
So I should be able to move the shaft attached to the "Flappy Thingy" (thanks I did not know the technical name) and it should move the piston? If so could someone with an IP off the engine remove the TSM and try moving the shaft so I know if mine is seized or not. This would make sense as this truck has had a cold start issue for a few years. The truck would start after an extended glow, run rough and smoke until something would "let go" and instantly the engine would smooth out and would run great. Warm starts that never happened. It is like the TSM was trying to advance the timing, but the advance piston was sticking in the bore and because the TSM is attached to that shaft through a spring (not direct, probably a fail safe, if and when the piston seizes) the piston would finally release and advance. Now that the truck has been sitting around more it has seized to the point it won't release.
 
Had a closer look at that shaft and it looks like it does just push the little valve in on the end of the advance piston. If that is all the stepper motor does it must not move much. So pressure pushes it to retard and then when commanded the stepper motor releases pressure and allows the piston to advance. Is that a correct assumption?
 
Sorry Mudbath, I haven't had a chance to check it out.

Simon is a much better source of info on this and most things.
 
Mudbath said:
So I should be able to move the shaft attached to the "Flappy Thingy" (thanks I did not know the technical name) and it should move the piston? If so could someone with an IP off the engine remove the TSM and try moving the shaft so I know if mine is seized or not. This would make sense as this truck has had a cold start issue for a few years. The truck would start after an extended glow, run rough and smoke until something would "let go" and instantly the engine would smooth out and would run great. Warm starts that never happened. It is like the TSM was trying to advance the timing, but the advance piston was sticking in the bore and because the TSM is attached to that shaft through a spring (not direct, probably a fail safe, if and when the piston seizes) the piston would finally release and advance. Now that the truck has been sitting around more it has seized to the point it won't release.
Click to expand...

Shoulda told that right away, thats exactly what my 98 is doing for the last 2 winters but it allways clears up after a restart
I traced that back to the advance as well,either stepper motor or sticky piston.(didn't bug me enough to fix it....yet.

You're on the right track blaming the advance,i would swap the stepper first,see if that helps,if not...you're looking at an other IP.

There is/was a guy on ebay selling used take off steppers for 10 pop a piece.
buy 5,there's bound to one working.
The ones i have are all on pumps with an issue,just don't know what issue...yet
 
Mudbath said:
Had a closer look at that shaft and it looks like it does just push the little valve in on the end of the advance piston. If that is all the stepper motor does it must not move much. So pressure pushes it to retard and then when commanded the stepper motor releases pressure and allows the piston to advance. Is that a correct assumption?
Click to expand...
something like that.
Hey,i ain't an expert either,...no matter what Leo believes :WTF:
 
'expert' is a relative term, Simon... I know lots of stuff about lots of stuff, but I also know enough to stay away from stuff I am clueless about... for instance, I know squat about IPs, so I'm staying out of it.

Like Leo, if I could give Mudbath some great advice, it would be "Ask Simon, not me" :D
 
No, when you came on I thought I should stay out as I am the one that would give the wrong advise.

If it was a welding question it would be different, and there is a lot I don't know about that.
 
Sorry guys I was out tonight and just got home. I will take any and all advise from you guys. Brain storming works, sift out the stuff you have tried and the rest usually contains the correct answer somewhere. We all know enough to be dangerous. And Simon, if you have some pumps with issues and the stepper motors on them would be as safe a bet as something off of ebay. I trust guys here cause they are usually here to help and pay it forward for help they received, but ebay that is iffy. If you have a bunch that you know are scrappers I would rather pay you something plus shipping for a few stepper motors. And if the time comes for a IP if you have something that you would feel comfortable putting on your vehicle and want to part with it, we can talk then.

I will be out of town until Sunday night now, let me know if you are interested in sending a couple stepper motors to me. Thanks again guys.
 
NVW said:
No, when you came on I thought I should stay out as I am the one that would give the wrong advise.

If it was a welding question it would be different, and there is a lot I don't know about that.
Click to expand...
Goes for me to.

So Leo,..what's the best rod to weld a crack in a vice(record N0 5) its split over the spindle nut in the rear.??...7018?
 
Mudbath said:
Sorry guys I was out tonight and just got home. I will take any and all advise from you guys. Brain storming works, sift out the stuff you have tried and the rest usually contains the correct answer somewhere. We all know enough to be dangerous. And Simon, if you have some pumps with issues and the stepper motors on them would be as safe a bet as something off of ebay. I trust guys here cause they are usually here to help and pay it forward for help they received, but ebay that is iffy. If you have a bunch that you know are scrappers I would rather pay you something plus shipping for a few stepper motors. And if the time comes for a IP if you have something that you would feel comfortable putting on your vehicle and want to part with it, we can talk then.

I will be out of town until Sunday night now, let me know if you are interested in sending a couple stepper motors to me. Thanks again guys.
Click to expand...
I have none that are known good or bad .
Actually i got 3,but they are on good pumps.
I F..ed up a perfect good one last year just to see how it's put together..not worth the $150 they want for a new one,..but what else is new?:rolleyes5:
 
bison said:
Goes for me to.

So Leo,..what's the best rod to weld a crack in a vice(record N0 5) its split over the spindle nut in the rear.??...7018?
Click to expand...

If you have 7018, use it, a Nickel based rod or brazing may be preferred but brazing is slower and it has a lot more heat input. Nickel rods are pricey.

"U" it out about 2/3's the crack depth. A "U" is narrower than a "V". Make 1/2- 1" long welds and peen the weld as it cools to spread it and prevent it from cracking. An air chisel works good. Let it cool until you can place your bare hand on it then make another 1/2-1" weld. Repeat. It's a slow process.
 
NVW said:
If you have 7018, use it, a Nickel based rod or brazing may be preferred but brazing is slower and it has a lot more heat input. Nickel rods are pricey.

"U" it out about 2/3's the crack depth. A "U" is narrower than a "V". Make 1/2- 1" long welds and peen the weld as it cools to spread it and prevent it from cracking. An air chisel works good. Let it cool until you can place your bare hand on it then make another 1/2-1" weld. Repeat. It's a slow process.
Click to expand...

Thats what i figured on doing,didn't know peening was needed with 7018,nor the cool down between welds(thought that was only done with nickel rods)
Nickel rods i have plenty,found a full pack of them and a full box of Stainless steel rods at the scrap yard for free,prob couple $100 worth:D

Thanks Leo,i learned some today.
 
bison said:
Thats what i figured on doing,didn't know peening was needed with 7018,nor the cool down between welds(thought that was only done with nickel rods)
Nickel rods i have plenty,found a full pack of them and a full box of Stainless steel rods at the scrap yard for free,prob couple $100 worth:D

Thanks Leo,i learned some today.
Click to expand...

Simon, I'm assuming the vise is some form of cast iron? The peening is done because the cast will remove the heat too fast and cracking will occur. Peening will spread the weld bead out so it doesn't crack.

I've had good luck with 7018 on cast.
 
Yeh i think its some form of forged nodulair cast.Its tough as hell.
Something like rear axle pumpkin housings?,i had good luck welding cracks in those with 7018,never peened though.
I been welding off and on all my life,never took a course though.7018 and 1714 is what i normally use,got no use for anything else.
mig for the thin stuff
 
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