• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Rebuilding a 141

Will do, though I never did it myself.

May look a dumbass question, but, how can I get sure the new ones fit correctly and won't go out when the block will hold coolant pressure from inside?
 
They fit tight. They're easier to install than remove, too. ;)

Use the position of the old ones as a reference. + or - a MM and you are good.
 
IIRC, do exist aluminum rocker arm retainers. Anybody knows where to find them? The stock nylon ones make me nervous when I look at them....
 
3500GMC said:
I wouldn't order a single part until you see how your block is going to shape up.

6.5 stock bore is 103mm (4.06inch) First oversize is .25mm if you need to bore the block. I would start with a new 'round' bore, new rings in old egg shaped bores take forever to seat in. Piston slap/wear unseats the ringset on top of that. Blowby out the gazoo...

Top ring is keystone cross section kinda like this, /_\ 3mm thickness Big side, bottom in illustration, toward the piston wall.
Second ring is 2mm thick.
Oil ring is 4mm thick two piece design.

Brand? I like Speed Pro but I'm not sure if they do 6.5 diesel stuff- so probably Perfect Circle would be a good candidate.
Click to expand...

DZZ71 said:
I would Definatly re ring it with a hone. I rebuild a 141 and have had no problems yet got 25,000 on it now and driven hard
Click to expand...

This is a question that haunts me : re-ring or not, and if re-ring, hone or not (expensive here) How can I check if it needs honing?
May be can I just change the oil ring only?
 
If you pull the rings from their bores, you need to at least hone the cylinders so they re-seat properly.

You can measure the rings for their service limit and reinstall them if good (if you want to chance it).

Personally, I'd just throw new rings in rather than the old even if they are in the service limit. With a hone, I prefer to see rings at the installed/new spec since they are going to wear as they seat. Especially with a common rebuilders type honing, the finish is "rougher" than the OEM finish hone.

New engines are very finely finished and so close to running spec when they leave the factory there's very little ring wear as they seat.

The top ring is the one to be concerned with as this is the ring that takes the majority of the compression forces and needs to be run under a load (not a max load though) to seat and not "glaze" the cylinder bores in a diesel application.

You still have to change the oil out (no synthetics on break in please!) at around 500 miles with a re-ring and hone, just like a new or rebuilt engine...
 
Correct me if wrong, honing cylinder walls means "cleaning" them with a kind of "stone-brush tool" or Flex-hone? like this one

article-new_ehow_images_a04_j9_vs_hone-cylinder-wall-800x800.jpghoning.jpg

Not necessary having to machine it and have to install oversized rings and pistons? Just to get sure, as a frenchie like me can sometimes misunderstand some technical words :eek:
 
Oversizing the bore is referred as 'boring' or 'boring out' yes. After the cut (bore) it's then 'honed' to the finished size, texture and angle. (usually 45 degrees)

The hone in the right side pic is very effective for a 'used' block. Sometimes called a dingle-ball hone, or Flex hone.

I wouldn't reuse rings. Once they leave their spot in their respective bore, they'll never seal properly again.
 
Woo woo !! Thanks 3500GMC, I just realise I was in fact making confusion between boring and honing :D

Boring is very expensive here. So, if changing rings needs honing only (as ong as walls are not too egg shaped of course), I will definately
hone and re-ring :D :D
 
You should be fine. In extreme cases your block will have a 'ridge' at the very top of the bore. There are cutter tools to remove this ridge if needed. Tool is called a ridge-reamer..
 
don't hone any more than you have to to clean them up. other wise your removing cylinder wall metal that should be kept to keep clearances
 
3500GMC said:
You should be fine. In extreme cases your block will have a 'ridge' at the very top of the bore. There are cutter tools to remove this ridge if needed. Tool is called a ridge-reamer..
Click to expand...

ak diesel driver said:
don't hone any more than you have to to clean them up. other wise your removing cylinder wall metal that should be kept to keep clearances
Click to expand...

Will do ;)

About pistons, how do you detect a worn piston pin? Should I have to worry about or is it something which "never" get worn?
 
If anything the bushing in the rod will show wear. The top ring has a steel land to ride on (cast in the piston) so usually the ring takes the abuse. But you should check 'em..
 
I was wondering if it's worth changing the roller lifters too.

Also, are all camshafts the same, or does it exist some torque enclined?
 
matuva said:
I was wondering if it's worth changing the roller lifters too.

Also, are all camshafts the same, or does it exist some torque enclined?
Click to expand...

To my knowledge all 6.5T cams are the same. You can successfully use new roller lifters with the old cam- if the cam is not hurt, of course
 
Would you install new lifters? I mean, is it worth it, or the old ones should be fine?
Are lifters parts that should be replaced in a rebuild process?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top