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Rebuild Time

Thanks Matt. They aren't too hard to install.

The bolt holes can be drilled out with a Mill (best option) a drill press, mag drill or if you purchase their jig to guide the drill bit it can be done by hand. I was going to use my drill press, instead I took a spare main bearing cap and drilled the outer holes with the drill bit supplied in the kit. I used the cap as a guide for my 1/2" drill.

The hole is tapped first with a rough cut tap, then with the finishing tap. an install tool runs the insert into the hole. there is a guide which sets it flush with the surface. A 1/16" hole is drilled through the threads between the insert and casting, then a pin is driven in to lock the insert, locktite is also used on the threads and the pin.

According to lock n stitch, it should now be stronger than new.
 
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Personally, I can't see how they would work but sadly, we won't know about Leo's repair for quite some time.
 
Personally, I can't see how they would work but sadly, we won't know about Leo's repair for quite some time.
Actually it makes sense TVM. Did you ever visit the site, and read up on them. They have an angles thread pitch, so that as they're tightened, they actually pull the material around them (your block) in tighter around them. I remember reading a post by Missy stating that as you tightened these up, you could see the oil squeeze out of the crack from its closing up.

Matt
 
I'll go check it out but for me, personally, I wouldn't trust it, don't have the energy to be a gineau pig and have it explode on me in the middle of nowhere.
 
I'll go check it out but for me, personally, I wouldn't trust it, don't have the energy to be a gineau pig and have it explode on me in the middle of nowhere.

I know your building a new engine now, but your the one always bragging about running all over creation in your 6.2 with lots of cracks at high boost, and these would worry you. :D

Matt
 
I know your building a new engine now, but your the one always bragging about running all over creation in your 6.2 with lots of cracks at high boost, and these would worry you. :D

Matt

Trouble is, my 6.2 frankenmonster is about to ventilate from the inside out, I didn't realize how bad they were until I had the pan off New Years day. She's a ticking time bomb and no more road trips with it until the new engine is in.
 
I know your building a new engine now, but your the one always bragging about running all over creation in your 6.2 with lots of cracks at high boost, and these would worry you. :D

Matt

Maybe this is what we should have done when our engines were out.
 
I have the crank and pistons in. The bearings all check out good. I used std. sizes.

Others have documented very good build threads, I haven't been taking many photos as one more won't make much difference.
 
I have the crank and pistons in. The bearings all check out good. I used std. sizes.

Others have documented very good build threads, I haven't been taking many photos as one more won't make much difference.
Well yeah, we need at least one picture just to make sure you ain't making things up eh.....poke poke


We need better smilies on this site,...these current ones suck:(
 
Here's a couple pics, didn't work on it today. Rad in another truck sprung a leak and front fender fell off tractor. Old derelict welding buddy stopped by to side track me as well.photo(3).JPG photo(2).JPG
 
So 141 block started in 95? thought they were still 599. You got it cleaned up real nice.
 
141 blocks can also have squirters, mine doesn't. I used a brass cone wheel, it even removed the carbon off the piston tops without any abrasion.IMG_0499.JPG This is the piston in my avatar.
 
I should say the brass wheel doesn't scratch, it is by nature an abrasive.
 
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