Rebuild for a performance oriented 6.5

[NVW]

Probably a good call on pulling the head, you were almost there and it's the only way to tell if the piston was damaged. Good thoughts your way.

 

[3500_6.5]

Never updated this, but I got the truck back together the next day. I broke the ops when I pulled the head off, so I need to replace it. But apparently none of my deep well sockets are deep enough, so I still need to go get a deeper deep well.... The stupid quick disconnect for the heater core is also leaking. I hate those things. I had to replace it when I did the pump and everything bc it leaked then. It's only been on there since then and has never been disconnected until now. So, of course, the first time I take it off it decides to leak. And it's not just a slight drip, it's an all out gush so I can't even run the truck long enough to make sure everything is ok. Hopefully I'll make it to the parts store to get that and the socket and have it all finished this week. Praying that it is useable until my new engine is done.


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[Nosferatu49534]

I took my disconnect out and put a barbed fitting in instead. Could be a temporary fix for you till the new engine is done. Can't remember the thread size though.

 

[Will L.]

X2. Every quick connect Gm made in the 90s sucked.

 

[Husker6.5]

Sorry to hear this, it never happens at a good time.

Yeah, ask 3bals (Jody) about that with his motorhome saga!

 

[Husker6.5]

Do you know the hammer and socket trick?

I thought that's where you set down your hammer and socket somewhere while you're working and they dissappear!

 

[Burning oil]

That too

 

[Husker6.5]

Only to mysteriously reappear two days later where you don't remember setting them down while working.

 

[3500_6.5]

I took my disconnect out and put a barbed fitting in instead. Could be a temporary fix for you till the new engine is done. Can't remember the thread size though.

That's probably the easiest and best route. I like the idea of the quick disconnect, but in all honesty I've rarely needed to use it and when I have I've had to replace it anyway bc it leaks when it's reinstalled.


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[3500_6.5]

Only to mysteriously reappear two days later where you don't remember setting them down while working.

Funny how that works.

And I'm glad I'm not the only one who experiences that....


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[ak diesel driver]

for me it's a constant reminder of how old I'm getting.

 

[Burning oil]

I run out to the shop and forget half way there what I was going for!

 

[ak diesel driver]

I know that feeling

 

[Will L.]

Better quick disconnect: use heater hose 4"-5" longer. Use screw gun to undo hose clamp, and a razor knife. Hose off in 1.9 seconds flat. For real.

 

[Hink]

I took my disconnect out and put a barbed fitting in instead. Could be a temporary fix for you till the new engine is done. Can't remember the thread size though.

Yup, ditto.
I can't believe I waited so stinking long to do it too. It took about 20 minutes and that included running down to NAPA for the fitting.

 

[Husker6.5]

I run out to the shop and forget half way there what I was going for!

Hell, I walk five steps over to the tool chest and forget what the f*** it was I was going to get! Over 50 moments really suck!

 

[WarWagon]

I took my disconnect out and put a barbed fitting in instead. Could be a temporary fix for you till the new engine is done. Can't remember the thread size though.

6.2 military surplus engines I get have the barbed fitting, one welded up to be a barbed fitting. I consider this to be a permanent fix.

Note: The factory has a restrictor in the fitting to slow the coolant down and I find it also keeps the engine up to temp under lighter load conditions. I use a manual heater flow control valve to shut off the heater and ignore the 'restriction' otherwise. The cheap valves are a trouble spot as I melt the packing out of them. IMO a 5/8 or 3/4 barb and call it a day.

You can experiment with the heater flow control valve settings if you think it's necessary for light engine loads between a hot heater and maintaining engine temp. I can see the heater flow in the 1993 and older style radiator - newer surge tank ones - good luck.

 

[Nosferatu49534]

http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.ore...ap?ck=Search_N0886_-1_4658&pt=N0886&ppt=C0108

Valve like this?

 

[3500_6.5]

The truck is back together and running again. Quick disconnect has been taken care of and everything seems to be ok with the truck. Runs good, no more smoke or miss. Unfortunately, the back corner of the valve cover is leaking now. I tried re using the crap cork gasket and put rtv on it to help seal it, but it didn't work. Leaks enough that I leave a small puddle under the truck now after I drive it. But I'll probably just let her leak for now lol. My cam is on its way back to me now so I can start putting the other engine together again. So this one will just have to make do for now and I'll just have to deal with another oil leak on it for the time being.

Another thing I forgot to mention. I pulled the roller rockers off the driver side and once I had them out and in my hands, I definitely found that they bind. My guess is that they have worn down bc of the initial issue they had and now actually get stuck in one spot when you turn them. I actually had to hit them to free them up bc they stuck hard enough that I couldn't turn them by hand. So I'm guessing the other side will be the same way and will need taken care of before I go and stick them on the new engine[emoji19]


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[n8in8or]

Yay and boo.