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Rebuild about done

R

Rodd

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After 5 years of finding time and my son doing most of the work to get us over the hump we're almost done. Just a few little odds and ends and finding little parts that have walked away, we are about a week away from reinstalling the beast (95 k3500 sierra dually). A couple of questions. When we pulled it we left the transmission behind. Should we pull the trans and connect to the engine then reinstall? I remember that top bell housing bolt was a pain to get out. Not sure how easy or difficult it will be with it still in. Should we pull the front clip and radiator or leave it? Any other helpful tips and suggestions are greatly appreciated.
 
Is the transmission a manual or auto? I've seen some folks on here pull the entire engine and trans out the front in one piece, can't speak to it myself though as I've only been around manual transmissions. It sounds like you may have an auto as I don't recall any top bolts on the bellhousing being difficult on MTs

Either way pulling the whole front clip/ core support will definitely make the engine install way easier. Plus gives you the opportunity to clean the radiator and backflush the heater core while the engine bay is all open.

Did you replace the engine mounts? Another worthwhile thing to do before dropping the engine back in
 
I wouldn’t pull the clip or trans.
Pull the radiator, clean all that like mentioned. That makes enough room to drop it in easy. Upper bolts are reached via huge extension (mine is 36”) and a swivel socket. I use 3/8” drive. Small enough to fit easy and handles the torque.
 
I use several extensions. I use a cheap Wobble extension from Harbor Freight, to the socket.

I think SnapOn might have wobble extensions now. Back when I first started buying them, Harbor Freight was the only game in town. No stores yet other than their first store.
Kind of like Cabela's back then.

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
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I would suggest: mark the position of and then remove the TC. Replace the pump seal. Then reinstall the TC making sure you get the proper depth. The seal has been sitting compressed due to lack of engine bearing support and may quickly fail.

Don't pull the trans: lots of weight, transfer case, just for two difficult bolts. Get a over engine creeper instead to reach the bolts.
 
Ever thought about leaving the motor mounts off , connecting the trans with a few of the easier bolts , lowering the engine and trans in the truck for more clearance and then installing the mounts ? Come to think of it , I did a 95 that way as the mounts , when installed , make for a very difficult time when sliding over the frame mounts .
 
I installed new mounts into the clams on My 2000.
It was a difficult task getting to some of the bolts when I removed the mounts.
For some reason, going back together it seemed that it was a lot easier.
Maybe My mind and hands just found a simpler way of getting in to them bolts.
With the mounts still removed from the block, set the engine down into the saddle as far as it will go, without damaging the pan or any components, install the bellhousing bolts then raise the engine back up and install them mountings.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I installed new mounts into the clams on My 2000.
It was a difficult task getting to some of the bolts when I removed the mounts.
For some reason, going back together it seemed that it was a lot easier.
Maybe My mind and hands just found a simpler way of getting in to them bolts.
With the mounts still removed from the block, set the engine down into the saddle as far as it will go, without damaging the pan or any components, install the bellhousing bolts then raise the engine back up and install them mountings.
Click to expand...
Did you do anything to reattach the clam shell halves back to one another after you were done or just allow the mounting bolts to do the work?
 
Paveltolz said:
I got the top bolt into the bell housing started and then ‘hired’ a young kid to crawl on top of everything and reach in there with his more nimble hands and get it snugged up. Then I went back and put the ‘umpf’ to it to finalize it.
Click to expand...
Good idea. When my boys were small I used to have them do it but they are all bigger than me now.
 
WarWagon said:
I would suggest: mark the position of and then remove the TC. Replace the pump seal. Then reinstall the TC making sure you get the proper depth. The seal has been sitting compressed due to lack of engine bearing support and may quickly fail.

Don't pull the trans: lots of weight, transfer case, just for two difficult bolts. Get a over engine creeper instead to reach the bolts.
Click to expand...
Thanks WW. I haven't even looked at that yet. That is a good idea. Does that look like a rear main seal just on the trans?
 
SnowDrift said:
Did you do anything to reattach the clam shell halves back to one another after you were done or just allow the mounting bolts to do the work?
Click to expand...
I used the pull straps that came with the new mounts.
I thought about welding them together but thought that unnecessary. Never know if they might have to come apart again at a later date.
 
Rodd said:
Thanks WW. I haven't even looked at that yet. That is a good idea. Does that look like a rear main seal just on the trans?
Click to expand...

Seal puller cakewalk however: It's very tricky to make sure the TC lines up and slips in to turn the pump. Thus you mark the depth it is at and it's o'clock position before removal. Then you make sure it goes back in to the same depth by turning it after slipping it back in at the o'clock position it came out at. If it isn't at the same depth it's not right and will do expensive and quick damage.

You have several sets of splines to line up and the pump drive thus the trick to it.
 
WarWagon said:
Seal puller cakewalk however: It's very tricky to make sure the TC lines up and slips in to turn the pump. Thus you mark the depth it is at and it's o'clock position before removal. Then you make sure it goes back in to the same depth by turning it after slipping it back in at the o'clock position it came out at. If it isn't at the same depth it's not right and will do expensive and quick damage.

You have several sets of splines to line up and the pump drive thus the trick to it.
Click to expand...
I think there is two sets of splines and then two flats on the outside of the TC sleeve.
If it does have those two flat spots, those are the toughest to get to align.
With any pressure on the front pump, it too will turn as You turn the TC to get those two flats aligned.
IIRC, there should be three clunks as the two splines align and then the two flats.
Maybe someone correct me if My IIRC is not RC. Meaning remembered correctly. 🤷‍♂️😹
That is why it is a good idea to follow what WW has posted above.
When the TC is setting correctly, it is like one of those aaaahhhh moments.
After getting the TC properly set into the splines and flats and knowing it is correctly aligned, I like to use some mechanics wire and run the mechanics wire through two bell housing bolt holes to keep the TC in position, then, after getting the engine, or transmission, close to alignment, pull the wire.
 
WarWagon said:
Seal puller cakewalk however: It's very tricky to make sure the TC lines up and slips in to turn the pump. Thus you mark the depth it is at and it's o'clock position before removal. Then you make sure it goes back in to the same depth by turning it after slipping it back in at the o'clock position it came out at. If it isn't at the same depth it's not right and will do expensive and quick damage.

You have several sets of splines to line up and the pump drive thus the trick to it.
Click to expand...
Well we may have a problem. When we pulled the engine the TC was leaking so I pulled it off and it has been sitting on the shelf for about 5 years. I didn't mark anything when I removed it.
 
Rodd said:
Well we may have a problem. When we pulled the engine the TC was leaking so I pulled it off and it has been sitting on the shelf for about 5 years. I didn't mark anything when I removed it.
Click to expand...
Not a problem.
If the sleeve of the TC had been left open, might be a good plan to get it flushed. Most any good transmission shop should be able to perform that operation.
Or else get an entire new unit.
 
Now I have another odd and end to find. I purchased a set of plugs for the block a few years ago and there is one missing. There is a plug that goes above the oil filter housing above the oil cooler line holes. Smaller that the cooler line holes. It was a square (indented) can't remember the size. Anyway, Anyone know the size and can I put a short bolt in it?
 
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