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Really high egts and lots of cold smoke..IP ?

It sounds too advanced even after you warm it up, I don't like mine like that so I idle between 7 and 10 degrees advance when warm on tunes meant for daily driving. Thats in the PCM, setting the TDCO won't change it. Youre probably 11 degrees advance at normal idle and when cold could be closer to 15 degrees. The thing is, thats cam timing, which is only half of crank, so idling at 22 degrees crank advance sounds crazy, but it does work for being a little more responsive. Although at less advance engine sounds better at idle and revving.

But it won't make startup be bad like that, thats more like an IP issue, and the PCM data could be revealing.
 
OK. I'll try to get some. I am not good with carcode. That is why I was tmepted to pop the pcm from my burb in and see if the problem goes away. Buddy, I think you are right thought. I think Bill advanced the timing a bit much for responsive ness. The truck takes off like a bat out of hell. It's bigger and heavier than my Tahoe was with a Heath tune and it's faster than the Tahoe.
 
Truck sat overnight in near zero degree not plugged in and I started it and no smoke. WTF ??? Seems the smoke issue comes if the truck sits for a few days ?? Back to shoddy injs ?? still did not run tests. Can't figure this dang carcode out.:mad2:
 
I hope this is not the right diagnosis, but if it only smokes after siiting a few days it could be a H/G on it's way.

A slow leak that is building up in the cylinder/s over time.

Atleast that's what happened to me and now I'm in the process of do the H/G.

Just a possibility I thought I would share, as mine didn't smoke either if I drove it everyday, but if I let it sit for like three days would do what yours is. I even confirmed that in this thread about a week ago.

To confirm this remove the rad. cap before you shut it down and relieve the pressure and maybe it won't push the coolant into the cylinder/s.

If it fires up after three/four days of sitting and doesn't smoke after doing this you might be pointed in the right direction before pulling IP and inj.
 
Well now that is interesting, I don't suppose you purchased that injector tester did you Kenny? Heck if necessary I have a spare portable one here that I could temporarily ship up to you if need be. Sadly right now I am busy as all get out and cannot make a trip across the sound. I would need to get it returned fairly quickly though as it is technically part of my business toolkit.

On another note have you called Heath on this to get a possible perspective on the tune. Having just spent an hour with him last week shooting the shit on tyre sizes, tunes, turbo's, vacuum or turbomaster I am sure it would be an enlightening conversation.

Keep forgetting to try out cylinder kill sorry about that, I'll try to get to it. But that is the nice thing about AE a nice platform when it comes to taking readings etc.

With the white smoke coolant did cross my mind earlier in the thread good point there Rob in regards to sitting around for a few days.

Cheers
Nobby
 
My coolant light didn't come on until a few days before the H/G blew for good while I was towing a military trailer home from the airforce base I bought it at.

It may not have been the reason it blew but it might have been leaking slow enough to not manifest itself or maybe it was just time for it to blow.

I only threw it out there as I had the same symptoms as kenny and then the next time I tow with it the H/G blows.

More load = more pressure and possibly what threw it over the edge? Just a hunch and gut feeling.
 
Did you watch Kenny's video, the dang thing blows white smoke at idle for like 10 minutes it seems, even after revving it. Crazy. That would not just be some water or fuel left in dripping over several days. Something is not working right for sure, which could still be a headgasket or worn ring/cylinder causing loss of compression.
 
It's not coolant. It's raw fuel. Can smell it clear as day not to mention the steam from coolant dissapates faster. That cluod of smoke wandered across the street and was covering my neighbors house. I started it again this am. Not plugged in, really cold, lots of smoke. You can here it missing like a cyl is trying to kick in. either the IP is shot or the nozzles I think. It's just too damn cold to mess with it and for now it's usable. Once it warms up it seems to run fine other than the high egts.
 
Just start it everyday then. In fact drive it everyday, she's a true beauty.

Plus the lil' man loves 'duallies!' :)

Mine almost no start today ambients almots 0.

Really cold winter this year. More snow tomorrow, more friday.

gonna be below zero soon.

GOnna hve to plug her in more than an hour prior to start.

even still, smokes for 30 seconds tops, clears up fast with medium/high idle.

This leaves me to believe your issue is absolutely not glow related. it just smokes to long.

Injector drip down would clear out by now.

Perhaps piston ring isn't sealing and your not getting compression for a few minutes causing the raw fuel smell??????????????

Has to be something on that line of compression or the fuel would be burning I would think. Overfuel would cause black soot?? Lack of compression would smoke out a sq block.

Just thinking.....
 
I dunno a compression issue sounds a lower down possibility based on it being a somewhat an intermittent issue and the fact that on a one of his cold starts she was fine would expect compression to really be an issue if the block etc is that cold.

Sure is a long time smoking fuel leak down wise unless there is an injector leaking down and misbehaving for a wee bit whilst she warms up.

Seems somewhat come and go to me so I am pondering a possible intermitant electrical gremlin. Whilst still some hours of work some of the simpler tests as already discussed such as injectors, compression while their out etc to start narrowing it down somewhat. You need a warm shop Kenny! like you I cannot work on mine either in the warm right now and it sure does suck. The other day I was lying under mine in the snow and mud in my Grundens foul weather gear screwing around sure was a pain in the rear. Really got to get the car in my shop out so I can actually use the maintenance bay for just that.

Cheers
Nobby
 
does it not really have a middle accerlation range? when my truck's ip was dying a slow death it would smoke like yours and when you pressed the pedal down a little past quarter it would start accerlating very hard. it was kinda either accerlate really slow or reeally fast with very little in between. even like this it passed the 2000 rpm test
 
The IP has a sligth fall off when you bring it up a tinybit and let off. Dave was here one day and saw it and said it was normal. My burb does it as well otherwise the truck runs good except for the smoke and the high egts. It also is louder than normal under coast acceleration. Sounds more like a 6.2 than a 6.5 but if Bill bumped the timing in the PCM that could be normal. IIRC my Tahoe sounded the same. I wish I had a spare PCM. I may try carpart.com. The next step would be an IP bench test and it's too cold right now to think about it.
 
Acesneights1 said:
The IP has a sligth fall off when you bring it up a tinybit and let off. Dave was here one day and saw it and said it was normal. My burb does it as well otherwise the truck runs good except for the smoke and the high egts. It also is louder than normal under coast acceleration. Sounds more like a 6.2 than a 6.5 but if Bill bumped the timing in the PCM that could be normal. IIRC my Tahoe sounded the same. I wish I had a spare PCM. I may try carpart.com. The next step would be an IP bench test and it's too cold right now to think about it.
Click to expand...


Your talking about when you let off the pedal it "hesitates"(for lack of a better word) at around 900 rpm for a split second then drops down smoothly to base idle right? Mine's always done it. I'd figure it's normal, considering mine does it, and your burb does it.
 
nobby said:
The other day I was lying under mine in the snow and mud in my Grundens foul weather gear screwing around sure was a pain in the rear. Really got to get the car in my shop out so I can actually use the maintenance bay for just that.

Cheers
Nobby
Click to expand...

This is a bit of a hijack, but it pertains to having to lay under your rig in the snow, mud, and/or gravel. Get one of those desk/carpet runners for office chairs. I found the gravel much softer when using one while working on my Toyota FJ40 and have since used it while working on my 6.5 diesel.

Try it, you'll like it.

Don
 
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