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Random stalling

Update, still have a shutdown at operating speed, it needs to be retimed. Does anyone have a picture of the static pump scribe marks. The military mark makes no sense. Also, the speedo runs crazy fast , I put a new sensor in, but no change. I can’t believe it drove to Toronto last month. Thoughts on speedometer other then removing cluster again
 
The shutdown at operating speed, is this a sudden engine off if someone just turned the key off while you are driving? or is there a stumble or sudden rough running then dies?

Things that forst come to mind for the sudden and random shutdown (as if someone just turned the key off) is check the PMD and or wiring to it, make sure the PMD and heatsink is grounded assuming it's relocated from the IP.

second thing would possibly be bad wiring in one or the other. crank position sensor or optic sensor. one solution is to disconnect one but not both and start and drive under the same conditions, see if the problem is gone. then try the other and see. the engine will though the service engine light on and will take and extended cranking to start but it will run without ONE of these two connected.

I re-read this thread to see if you had tried this yet, I saw where you were going to try the optic sensor disconnected but couldn't get it to start. you might have been on to something there. the crank sensor is located down on the drivers side of the timing cover and usually gets caked in oil and grime, the wires coming out of the sensor travel up to around the drivers side head where a connector is. that wire up the side of the engine can be shorting out with all the oil and whatnot.
 
I replaced the cps, and the old one is fine. When it started with optical sensor off, it had a bare wire from pinching. I think another one is pinched., will look. The fuel shutoff solenoid should be level for static, if I remember correctly. I also see me replacing the starter soon , as it is old and abused. I don’t think it has the 200 rpm anymore. Once engine hits 170 it shuts down.
 
When the temp reaches 170 and shuts down will ot start right back up and run fine again? If so for how long will it stay running? I’ve heard others mention this and the ecm was trying to go into a timing relearn on its own as if the ecm lost its tdc offset reading
 
Will L. said:
It all depends on the mixture they use.
Ideally-replace all the rubber lines with sae30r9 then never worry about it.
Click to expand...
I could not find that 30R9 rated hose at the two parts stores here.
I went to John Deere and bought some hose.
IDK what the rating is on that hose but it is some mighty tough stuff.
My fertility, ooops, I meant utility knife, with a real recent blade change had a rough time cutting through that stuff.
That was 5/16ths for the return circuit on the injection system of the new enjun..
 
Then use amazon. Only part of that rating is outside strength and abrasion resistance.
The chemical make up of it in order to withstand the crap corn alcohol that is in almost all our fuel now is what is doing the damage to the older fuel lines. It makes it decompose from the inside out so you can’t examine in and go “oh, I’ll replace that next week before there is a problem.” It is like a virus inside your body. It is an undetectable occurrence until there is enough damage inside that there is problems occurring.

The John Deere stuff you bought has a part number. Call their technical support with that number and find out if it is rated for ethanol. If so- you should be fine. But there are still some manufacturers that are not using line that withstands it and they don’t mind because in a few years that is more money in their pocket when the truck or tractor goes back to the shop for repairs and they get more money.

Ford dodge and GM all did this too. Think about the recent lawsuit with the cp3- they fully knew it couldn’t withstand this corn juice and let it ride. They let millions of rigs sell with what they knew was a major component that couldn’t withstand the fuel and it’s properties. The lawsuit showed they knew of a fix for it that would cost them an few bucks more per truck. Rather than raise the price of the truck say $20 they let every owner have a time bomb that can cost them thousands. Why? Because a certain percentage of the owners would bring the truck to the dealership for repairs and feed the system.

So just because it is a well known manufacturer doesn’t mean they are doing the right thing.
 
I re-routed mine to go over the top of the intake. at first I had re-located the FFM so that the hoses weren't under the intake and in the valley just by raising it up some. later I completely eliminated the FFM and used a filter with clear bowl mounted on tthe firewall. doing this also depends on your area's climate if you need a filter with a fuel heater. here in Texas it doesn't get cold enough to need one and once the engine compartment gets warm I can still drive into colder climates.

the plus on removing the ffm from that area too is you gain access to where the ops is and other tid bits in that area. iirc Leroy also sells a harness that allows you to connect to the factory ffm heater and wif connectors and run them just about anywhere under the hood. when I bought my 93 it had this installed and the FFM was sitting on the drivers side inner fender area with some custom brackets. unfortunately I had to eliminate it since the FFM developed a gushing leak. at some point I will put it back with a new FFM.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I re-routed mine to go over the top of the intake. at first I had re-located the FFM so that the hoses weren't under the intake and in the valley just by raising it up some. later I completely eliminated the FFM and used a filter with clear bowl mounted on tthe firewall. doing this also depends on your area's climate if you need a filter with a fuel heater. here in Texas it doesn't get cold enough to need one and once the engine compartment gets warm I can still drive into colder climates.

the plus on removing the ffm from that area too is you gain access to where the ops is and other tid bits in that area. iirc Leroy also sells a harness that allows you to connect to the factory ffm heater and wif connectors and run them just about anywhere under the hood. when I bought my 93 it had this installed and the FFM was sitting on the drivers side inner fender area with some custom brackets. unfortunately I had to eliminate it since the FFM developed a gushing leak. at some point I will put it back with a new FFM.
Click to expand...
I built a bracket that raised up the FFM, then turned it 90* CCW. In hose then came in from the passenger side and outgoing towards the drivers side.
Using the Leroy Diesel feed the beast filter/kit system and then the swivel fitting with bored for 1/8”’pipe for the fuel pressure gauge that put the IP inlet hose well above the intake maneeefold.
Now with this Air Dog system, all the hoses is getting replaced. From the tank to the engine.
The only hose that will not be from Quadstar Tuning will be the 5/16ths return hose back to the tank.
I will get with QST and see what they have for return hose and order that through them, or Leroy, I want to know that every inch of hose is going to be of the highest quality to last for most likely the rest of My days.
Originally, the return hose I had got just enough to get the return hose from the back of the engine to the steel line at the bell housing and having extra to spare. Now with this new metronome sending unit and pickup assembly I have decided to go all the way with the return to the tank as well.
I will have to try and figure out what fitting I will need to connect to the tank pipe. Might have to cut the fitting off the original hose and use that. 🤷
 
I thought I left a post here, but it might be on similar thread. I am targeting the plugs at ecm and studied pinout. One question, what pin is power in? Still stalling at temperature.
 
hookedup50 said:
I have 2 pmds mounted to bumper with heat sinks, both on harnesses. I tried “extra” new one and plugged in by pump. Nothing.
Click to expand...
I found a failing pmd on bumper, they are suspect always, so I try each test with known good pmd. Does anyone know what ecm wire is power, I need to monitor that circuit.
 
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