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Radiator Leak

@Big T , I run the green stuff in things that don't get Evans coolant, I don't think it matters much, I do have a "Zinc Anode" on my Griffin radiator and I recommend one in every aluminum radiator just in case..


www.flex-a-lite.com

Flex-a-lite Radiator Zinc Anode

The Flex-a-lite Zinc Anode protects aluminum components in the cooling systems from corrosion and damage that could be caused by electrolysis or coolant additive breakdown.
www.flex-a-lite.com www.flex-a-lite.com
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
@Big T , I run the green stuff in things that don't get Evans coolant, I don't think it matters much, I do have a "Zinc Anode" on my Griffin radiator and I recommend one in every aluminum radiator just in case..


www.flex-a-lite.com

Flex-a-lite Radiator Zinc Anode

The Flex-a-lite Zinc Anode protects aluminum components in the cooling systems from corrosion and damage that could be caused by electrolysis or coolant additive breakdown.
www.flex-a-lite.com www.flex-a-lite.com
Click to expand...

So this goes in the drain pet cock fitting?
 
Big T said:
I think I read that early on GM models using Dexcool had leak issues, then they changed formulation of the seals. But the damage was done and the stories and legends persist.
Click to expand...
Yup, I know I have not been a Dexcool fan ever since that, even though they did change the chemistry. I do imagine though, when I flush and change coolant in the Maliblue, I’ll most likely go back in with Dex.
Even though all the different brands out there are suppose to be the same chemistry makeup, I will most likely go with the GM brand. Regardless of being bean counters, seems I trust the name over any others. 🤷‍♂️😹
 
It was the coolant that changed- 4 times.
Not the seals, and orings, and hoses etc.

The rumors are from guys like me that worked not just for GM on the contracted side, but actually working on their cooling system screw ups. Also from guys like me that worked in GM dealerships. Any good company man would tell you “absolutely use OUR stuff, because it’s the best for your GM product.” Problem with that is I won’t lie to the little guy in favor of the big company even if they are cutting my paycheck, and I am not alone in that. And all anyone has to do if they doubt me is research the lawsuit...

Its just like right now them saying “yeah use dexron6 in your 1990’s 4l80e”. But real world is it causes problems. Gee- patent ran out and big azz corporation got patent on new stuff and ‘magically’ the old stuff is crap and only new money maker is good. Hmm.

An anode is a good idea regardless of aluminum or copper radiator.
It is a good idea to write down the over all length of it and do periodic checks on how much it is dissolved away. As long as some of it is still there, it’s ok. But put in a new one before the old one disappears.
 
Yes it would be a good idea to do either that or prestone flush. I don’t know which would be better for your situation. Idk pro/con descaler vs normal flush.

Remove fan and fanclutch if you haven’t already.
Then just get some metal pipe to connect the two radiator hoses together. Might need to get pre-bent 90° electrical conduit from homedepot. Make sure you don’t kink the hoses so the water can flow when you start the engine to get it to circulate. Obviously it will get hot much faster because less coolant to heat and no radiator to shed the heat.
shut the engine down when it gets to 200°
 
Will L. said:
Yes it would be a good idea to do either that or prestone flush. I don’t know which would be better for your situation. Idk pro/con descaler vs normal flush.

Remove fan and fanclutch if you haven’t already.
Then just get some metal pipe to connect the two radiator hoses together. Might need to get pre-bent 90° electrical conduit from homedepot. Make sure you don’t kink the hoses so the water can flow when you start the engine to get it to circulate. Obviously it will get hot much faster because less coolant to heat and no radiator to shed the heat.
shut the engine down when it gets to 200°
Click to expand...

My fan wrench and hub holder went down to Fullerton to work on son's '94.
 
Returned the Dexcool to Walmart. Here are my Choices at Walmart:

A68FC2B8-CC69-476E-8D79-63068A87FC70.jpeg64D05454-4ECC-4272-8CE8-ACF71C8120EF.jpeg606CBD92-95DA-4C4D-8F0D-28437F983D63.jpeg1E5F8A0B-2224-4440-949D-799693356CDA.jpegB34A296D-4039-4979-9560-FE76DC067B4C.jpegD466E5A4-8CE8-4862-9DE5-D3B1FD82FC1A.jpeg

I have never tried Asian, which I find intriguing.

There is a second Walmart in Missoula which I will check today. Does Costco carry coolant? Still looking for distilled water.
 
I have found the parts stores over here to not be a lot higher in price than walmart. I dont know about Costco.
If You happen to see one of those ice manufacturing companies, you might check with them for distilled water.
At least the ice vendor over here also distributes water, osmosis and distilled.
 
So how do I flush the engine of the remaining Dexcool? Do I run a garden hose through it? Which hose: upper or lower? Then can I funnel distilled water to flush the garden hose water out?

Radiator just arrived. I see what Les was saying about the fittings for the transmission lines.
 
If You can get to them, pull the drain plugs on the lower engine block. Pull heater hoses and flush and back flush heater core.
Fill the engine with plain tap water, run the engine until thermostats opens up, shutter down, let it cool some then do it all over again.
Might have to do that a couple of times.
There too is heater hose flush kit that can be installed into one of the heater hoses. I have never used one so I do not know all the details.
I always just used the drain, refill, circulate, drain and repeat cycles.
 
Ok. Walmart sells to the masses, these trucks are no longer owned by the masses- so no surprise Walmart doesn’t sell what is best for this engine.

Prestone Green Prime.

Autoparts store like Oriellys and napa usually sell it. It will say good for minimum 1 year. Test your antifreeze yearly and when it goes bad, flush the system. It’s like an oil change, it is getting rid of the crap. New all aluminum engines can handle tons of miles without issues- this one doesn’t. How often? 3 years/30,000 miles- same as your transmission should be done.

Flushing- I remove the thermostat, remove upper radiator hose and pump in garden hose water until it comes out clear. Then start engine with heater on high and continue until clear. Draining a gallon, Put on radiator hose and add the flush chemicals. Follow directions on the bottle

Depending on what your system is fighting there is a couple choices which to use.
Best is Blue Devil.
Everything looks fairly clean, no major rust and no major scale - prestone.
Heavy rust- Thermocure (made by evaporust) is a good choice.

since you already have the radiator removed, connecting the rad hoses with metal pipe and secure the hoses so the fan cant hit them since you can’t remove the fan right now. Run it till she is hot. The more it runs while hot the better, but you risk overheating without a radiator so BE CAUTIOUS.

OTHER FOLKS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE: I know this guy and know he is a super attentive individual. If you are not, or if you have been called dumb or stupid twice in your life - don’t do this without a radiator. You will blow your engine.

After running it- just let it cool and flush it out with water again. Then with just water, run it till its hot and let it cool. Drain and catch in a clean container. If the water is clear, you are good. If not- do it again.

If you can find distilled water and don’t mind the added costs use it on second and any subsequent flushes.

Now drain all the water including the block drain. Refill with the new coolant and distilled water if not buying the pre mix.
 
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