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Project Frankensquare

I like the way that killmat came out on the firewall with the logos removed giving it a unique look. was there different styles used there? I noticed the texture pattern is different in the center section than on the drinkers side of the firewall.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I like the way that killmat came out on the firewall with the logos removed giving it a unique look. was there different styles used there? I noticed the texture pattern is different in the center section than on the drinkers side of the firewall.
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The center section with the different texture is the Tunnel Shield that I layered over the Kilmat.
 
I contacted Jake's Performance yesterday to find out which rebuild kit I should use for my build. I told them it was an 8000 pound truck that would also be hauling/towing and I gave them the dyno sheet from the black truck to use as a representative power curve for the engine (not right away, but someday). They recommended their Stage 4 kit with the billet intermediate shaft and 300M input shaft. I was kind of surprised to have to go to that level, but I'd rather be safe than sorry with a broken trans. Right now the intermediate shafts are backordered by about a week, so hopefully I'll have the kit in a couple weeks and I can reassemble the trans.

Last night I dug out some fenders I bought over the winter and took the inner fenders and trim off of them. I had debated about getting another set, but I'm spending enough money in other places that I am instead going to repair these since they aren't that bad overall. Sorry, I forgot to take pics, I'll get some tonight when I start repairing.
 
Frankentruck said:
Frankensquare meet Frankentruck
1995 Ram 3/4 ton 4wd chassis 1998 1500 Ram 1500 "shorty" body (Frame cut to fit).
12 Valve Cummins Triple HE351cw Turbo setup. 35x15.5x20 tires on 14" wide wheels.
Click to expand...
I dig it! And I second Will’s message……welcome and we’d all love to read a thread on your build to learn more about it.
 
Made some decent progress on the fender tonight. It isn’t perfect, but if I wanted to finish it with body filler I probably could. Before I go that route, I want to challenge myself and see how good I can get it in just metal. I’m going to get a metal shrinking disc and see how far that gets me beyond where I am right now.

Here are some “Before” pics. I forgot to get the very bottom of the fender, so you won’t be able to compare to the “After” later unfortunately, but I did get the major dent in all its glory.

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And here’s the “After” so far.

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As you can see, I cut out some of the inner structure not only for access, but in the case of the big dent, I cut it out so the panel would move more easily. I’ll straighten that inner piece out and then weld all of the inner pieces back in.
 
I fixed the rust on these fenders. The passenger fender had a couple spots in the back. I forgot to take a before pic of this hole, so I had to lay what I cut out of it on top of the repair.

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This repair was trickier due to the contours and my lack of really good metal working equipment. I had to improvise ways to stretch the metal with a hammer and do that multiple repetitions until it was close enough to use. I was happy with how it turned out.

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The driver side had more extensive rust in the rear. First I had to repair the inside structure of the fender. I had to make the patch out of 3 separate pieces since the contours were so dramatic and in different directions.

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The outside was so extensive that I decided it made sense to just buy a patch panel rather than make something myself. The horizontal seam is kind of sunken - not sure if it sunk due to welding or if it was from the contours of the fender and patch not matching, either way, it will need a little filler to be perfect, which isn’t a big deal.

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Now the fender rust is all fixed. I’m waiting for my shrinking disc to show up so I can work out some of the fine ripples.
 
Ok, transmission is all rebuilt. Like I said in the last post, it's been a bit of an ordeal, but it could have been worse, just all part of learning. I initially stopped bodywork and switched to the transmission in case there were part delays for the transmission. When I called Jake's Performance, they said the intermediate shafts were delayed by a week, but to my surprise the kit shipped the next day! I ordered the kit from them without electrical parts because they said those would have delayed the kit. I didn't want to order anything else until I received the kit so I could order anything else I needed at the same time. I ordered the kit with the optional recalibration kit, but didn't see it in the box. When I called them about that they said I didn't need the calibration kit since I was doing a build for a heavy diesel truck.....they had missed that they charged me for it so they promptly refunded me.

I then evaluated what I received some more and it had nothing in it for the valve body, even though there are problem areas that should be addressed. I ordered a Shift Correction Package from Superior Transmission Parts based on reviews. I also ordered a Transgo Actuator Feed Limit Valve Repair Kit since that is also a common problem. The I also ordered all of the electrical parts.

I built the trans to the instructions of the Transmission Bench video and expected to see some info about checking the end play once the pump was installed. Nope. Ok, time to research..... Apparently when doing a stock build you can safely ignore checking play because you know it had the correct clearances previously if it was a working unit. However, I was building a performance unit with hard part replacements and modifications. First was the rollerized output. I needed to tear it back down to the center support and check that end play. It was close, but I added .005" to get it in the sweet spot. Then I had to check the clearance between the carriers - it felt a little loose (you can't directly measure this one) so I needed to order some shims. While I was at it I looked up the other shims to adjust front end play and ordered them all so I would be ready for that. With the shims in hand it was pretty quick to get the clearances in the sweet spot. Turns out the carriers only needed .005" to be nice and the front I only needed to put the next thicker size of selective thrust washer.

The big take away of this whole experience is that I should have first put the disassembled drivetrain parts in the case to check my end plays, done the appropriate shimming and then done the normal rebuild procedure, which includes checking/setting clearances in the packs.

Jake's kit has really nice parts in it, but I know a chunk of the cost of the kit is the instructions they send with the kit. I feel confident that for the next build I can source most of my own parts and just get the proprietary ones from him and save a little money. I now feel much better armed for the next build, though I still have a few notes to jot down for myself while everything is fresh. Time to clean up and switch back to bodywork.

4l80.jpg
 
MrMarty51 said:
Nice job on the transmission.

I’m thinking if I should ever need a transmission rebuild done for the 4L80E in My truck, I might try to go for the 4L90E.
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Hmmm, I had never heard of a 4L90e before, so I Googled it. Some people claim that’s what’s behind the Duramaxes and others say those people are mistaken and it’s just a 4L85e. I’m sure there are other differences between an 80 and 85, but the biggest one that sticks out to me is that the 80 has a 4-pinion planetary and the 85 has a 5-pinion planetary. Jake’s doesn’t upgrade an 80 to a 5-pinion in the Stage 4 which is warranted past 1000hp, so I doubt it’s that crucial. I think a quality rebuilt 4L80e would be more than sufficient and won’t have you hunting for a unicorn core. Just my 2 cents.
 
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