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Problem installing Heath Turbo Master on GM4

Tinker

Tinker

Active Member
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Location
Lavonia, Georgia
I think a lot of you have done this mod so maybe you've come across this issue. I didn't see anything similar in a search of the archives. Note: I've contacted Heath but it's the weekend and I'm a little impatient to finish this, so figured I'd ask around.

I don't have clearance to install the bell crank for this Turbo Master on my GM4. The crank hits a flange ear for the exhaust 90. I know I can grind away at that flange or come up with some other rigging, but I'd rather not. This is supposed to be a 20-30 minute bolt-on and the part isn't cheap. Have any of you come across this?

Do I just have a franken-turbo? Do aftermarkets have a shorter wastegate lever shaft? Plate says GM4. Doesn't look to me like it's ever been replaced.

IMG_20210410_124448[1].jpgIMG_20210410_124217[1].jpg
 
Zoom out on the photo! I am guessing you are attempting to bolt the wrong part to the actual wastegate. Wrong kit or messing up install.

It should look like this and the lefthand stuff goes on the moving turbo WG part.

www.heathdiesel.com

DIESELSITE - DIESEL MAINTENANCE and PERFORMANCE

You'll find brand name diesel performance parts at Dieselsite. Get advice for your truck from the owners who are also certified AMSOIL distributors.
www.heathdiesel.com
 
@WarWagon, it's the 92-95 kit, correct bell crank, and the correct mounting hole. I'm trying to discern if my turbo is non-standard in some way, like a GM4 intake turbine mounted to an older style exhaust turbine. Figured others might have come across such a situation. Didn't make that clear, sorry. A little wider field of view below. I'll take some others later.

.IMG_20210410_124505[1].jpg
 
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The vacuum actuator was horizontally mounted. For some reason, the wastegate shaft seems either to be shorter than standard or mounted at an angle that is different than most. The shaft isn't bent, and turns cleanly around the axis.

I may be able to re-use the vacuum actuator bracket and just mount the clevis directly to the old wastegate lever. That's my next attempt, anyway. Still, aggravating that this variation wasn't accounted for in the design of the part.
 
Can you feel the WG valve close by turning the shaft till it stops? Do bolt holes line up with WG closed: allowing at least 1/16" of movement to allow it to open? I recall reading this is all it moves in use anyway.
 
When I did mine on a 95, it was easy following instruction and fit just right without any issue.
The most difficult part was threading the nuts to the wastegate.
Set the spring at the length specified by the instruction and adjust it as you drive it.

It was more than 15 years ago, and it is still there running like a champ.
 
JMJNet said:
When I did mine on a 95, it was easy following instruction and fit just right without any issue.
The most difficult part was threading the nuts to the wastegate.
Set the spring at the length specified by the instruction and adjust it as you drive it.

It was more than 15 years ago, and it is still there running like a champ.
Click to expand...
Can You get a picture or two of it ?
That might help.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Can You get a picture or two of it ?
That might help.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, the airbox prevent me to get a good picture.
I am too lazy to take off parts. Sorry.

The picture on post #3, that bolt supposed to go into the bottom (only) hole in the original wastegate lever shown in post #1 on the right.

I don't have any obstruction after the install at all.
If there is obstruction, may be the motor mount is sagging or something cause the turbo to be lower.

Here is the instruction:
 

Attachments

  • TM-GM.pdf
    397.3 KB · Views: 6
WarWagon said:
allowing at least 1/16" of movement to allow it to open? I recall reading this is all it moves in use anyway.
Click to expand...
I think you hit on something there. I expected the Turbo Master to move the wastegate lever through it's full range of travel. Talking with the company today, sounds like you're about right with the amount of throw needed. They say the 1/2" or so that I can get is enough.

I'm still skeptical but whatever. I'll button it up and give it a try.
 
JMJNet said:
Unfortunately, the airbox prevent me to get a good picture.
I am too lazy to take off parts. Sorry.

The picture on post #3, that bolt supposed to go into the bottom (only) hole in the original wastegate lever shown in post #1 on the right.

I don't have any obstruction after the install at all.
If there is obstruction, may be the motor mount is sagging or something cause the turbo to be lower.
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting that. I still don't understand why I'm getting contact. It looks like the shaft on my wastegate comes out of the turbine housing at an angle below perpendicular, which causes Heath's bell crank to hit that ear. Heath doesn't seem to think it's a problem so I'll see how it runs.
 
Do you have a boost gauge on it? Keep it under 14 PSI. I set mine at 12 PSI at 1000' so altitude, 8000', with trailer towing, boost creep, would stay below 14 PSI. This is the turbo's choke point where more psi is generated by heating the air not more air mass being moved. The turbo is also being run at too many RPM's above 14 PSI.
 
IIRC, set it at around 2.5" spring length. You will max at around 9 psi which is what the ECM likes.

What happened is the spring strength will hold the wastegate shut until a max pressure is achieved then it is opened to relieve it.
 
JMJNet said:
It is counterintuitive, because you think the wastegate started in an open position but it is NOT.
Click to expand...
Yup, that was my way of thinking too until some nice people in here explained how it works. I was to the thinking the WG was open then it would begin to close to increase boost. Not so.
 
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